On bus from Bangalore to Jodhpur…

Traveling is a great experience and this blogger considers himself a travel buff. When I had turned thirty I had traveled so much around the country that I used to consider myself as one of the very few in my age group who had traveled that much!!. Last few years my travels has become quite limited, more to do with dwindling resources than lack of enthusiasm. While traveling one tends to face different situations, in most cases totally unpredicted, Indian reality is about contingency decisions. Since I have traveled so much I have thousands of anecdotes. Here is my travel scribble on my recent road travel, the experiences may give insights or some understandings (need to add here that I do read lots of travel blogs and gained a lot).

One basic rule I follow while I travel is to relax, when you are relaxed your senses tends to be sharper and intuitions works better. Intuition is very important since one has to not only experience but anticipate. The latter is about survival instinct. Things can go terribly wrong so one has to be a step ahead to reduce the damage. Hundreds and thousands of tragic incidents of cheating, injury, murder…happening around the country is a testimony of things gone wrong. I too had my share but nothing serious.

My travel to Rajasthan recently started on a wrong note. I had managed to get tatkal ticket from Bangalore to Pune. I was quite happy since traveling in unreserved is always dreadful experience (within-5-days tatkal is a clever ploy to fleece passengers that Indian railways have introduced sometime back, now there is even waiting list for tatkal -I was surprised when saw that one. You end up paying 300-400rs more than usual fare, and yes it is not refundable). I got the timing wrong, this had never happened before. I took departure time 20.10 as 10.10pm, so missed the train!!. I came to know later that many people had similar experience to share. You see we rarely say the time is 20:10 when somebody asks it is 8:10. Maybe the railways could write this in the bracket for the benefit of people. So here I was stranded in the railway station with money loss not knowing what to do next, going back was an option I ruled out instantly as had already planned the itinerary also got a confirmed ticket back from Rajasthan. I took out the atlas to check out what are the options I have, first rule here is never stick to a place keep moving. I took a bus to Belgam (reached about 8am), then to Kholapur (reached about 12) then to pune, reached at 4.00 pm earlier than the train would have reached albeit with more than 1000rs hole in pocket. I need to add here that in last one decade the roads in India have improved tremendously, it’s a miracle. It is a pleasure to travel on road, offcourse buses are quite cramped (I guess that is ok considering Indian reality), body does go stiff. Traveling in bus is quite different from train, apart from physical restrictions, interaction is also very limited. You get hypnotized in the drone of the engine as also similar terrain (pic here is of visually handicapped copassenger).

Two days at pune, found that my ticket to Jodhpur is still in the waiting list but tantalizingly close to the confirmed so went to the station tried to talk it out with the TT, who after initial courtesy told me to get lost. Went to counter and got the refund, also had to fill up somebody else’s form, there still are substantial number of illiterate people but the good news is they are traveling, must be unskilled migrant worker. So took a bus to Ahmedabad. Had some bad vibe about the verbose fellow on the next seat, something about him told me to careful. As he talked he offered me chips I refused, he insisted I had to be bit rude. Maybe I was wrong the way I behaved but one never know what could have happened, with drug laced food and so on. Or probably he was a friendly guy, the latest casualty of increasingly paranoid society. It was quite late as the bus raced to Mumbai (I gave out a curse I had preferred Nasik route). The fellow on the far end was busy on his laptop, my interest became obvious he turned it away, far from eavesdrop my fascination was for the contraption. The bus stopped for dinner at eatery and fast food chain next to petrol pump, found that shops and fast food joint were manned by malayalis (you cant miss that accent !!). The young man who could be in his early twenties told me when asked that he himself doesn’t know how he landed up here. I understood him. His Malayalam accent suggested that he was from mid travancore region.

An hour later I was fast asleep, and when I sleep I sleep. Period. So tied the end of my bag to my wrist. Ahmedabad was quite chilly, the auto charge from stand to station took 100rs, quite hefty. The auto fellow had lot to talk about forthcoming parliamentary elections, I though was not keen so just kept up with hanji-since I wanted him to keep speaking otherwise I would sleep (he was an admirer of Modi- he has done a lot for development he said, but added outside Gujarat he will not work, and if he persists he might fail in Gujarat too. He mentioned that Manmohan Singh was a good PM, Rahul Gandhi will take 4 to 5 years more. I vaguely recall him saying that that middle class prefer him married, his appeal will increase with family!!. I was quite drowsy and disoriented from travel so couldn’t catch much. I guess Gandhi family don’t really has much privacy!). Had cup of tea with delicious healthy dokhlas (I am a big fan of this dish). Train to Ajmer had left next one was in the afternoon, so changed the plan and took a bus to Jodhpur. It was tiring day journey the Rajasthan state bus was not one of the best I have traveled in, predictably it broke down, waited on the highway with other passengers for a substitute bus, realized that I was famished but the nearby shop had nothing worth eating- packet chips and freshly fried delicacies, people in this region are mostly vegetarians but the eating habit don’t seem to have too many healthy choices (atleast that is what one gathers from roadside shops. I like poha though. The pic of typical breakfast at Pushkar hot milk in kulad + hot jalebis=heaven!!). So sipped some water, reached Jodhpur quite late, next day afternoon took a bus to Phalodi, a day later another bus to Pushkar. It is here I realized that I have traveled thousands of kms on bus!!.

While traveling from Ajmer to Pushkar an 8year old boy was my co-passenger, he was going back alone for holi vacation. There are no good schools in the village he stays so he studies in city school. It is supposed to be “English medium” but he couldn’t converse in that language. I asked him what his father’s occupation was. He said woh shanth ho gaye (he has attained peace). That is a beautiful way to define death. I recall an incident some years back I was traveling from benaras to ahmedabad, a boy who was almost the same age and had lost his father (infact he was coming back with his family after immersing his ashes) said woh off ho gaye ( he is off!!). In his nonchalant gujarati accent it sounded so funny that I laughed. This gujarati boy even suggested me how to put money on share!!. The difference between these two kids I felt was the pushkar boy had so much of innocence and a deep desire to learn, he asked me many questions. The Gujrati boy was study in contrast matter of fact tone, seen it all attitude and a confidence that he can handle anything. He firmly believed in making as much money as possible, his reference point was always money. Quite interesting experiences.

A visit to Pushkar and Ajmer

Pushkar is the place that has the only Brahma (the supreme Hindu god-the creator) temple in the country, while Ajmer is where Dargah of Sufi saint Kwaja Moinuddin Chisti (Garib nawaz) is located. I first came to both these places when I was around ten. Since then I have come here many times.

Both these places are different in many ways. Pushkar holy site is about assertion of life while Ajmer Dargah is about the link to god through spiritualism. Pushkar is about giving space to all living forms while Ajmer is about not neglecting the downtrodden. Pushkar is about taking the life in its chaotic turns while Ajmer is about seeking almighty in the shrill. These contradictions are what make these places interesting. It is as if Pushkar completes what Ajmer lacks and Ajmer completes what Pushkar lacks. They seem to complement, both have elements of truth. The reason why it is important to visit both these places. Beauty is that they are located about 10 odd Kms from each other, separated by a mountain.

In Pushkar you will find huge pond, with ghats and temples. I saw lots of fishes, as also birds (pigeons, sparrow, stilts, myna…so on). There are squirrels, cows, monkeys, dogs, donkeys so on, there is so much of vibrancy of life. People feed animals and birds, there seems to be god everywhere!!. And yes the place is strictly vegetarian; there is also high emphasis on taking care of animals. There are lots of foreigners, people from different part of the world stay here for months. It’s a terrific sight to see the sunset over the pond (the photo was taken at dusk, the place is usually crowded during festivals). Yet there are things that would make you cringe, it’s a place where you can get easily fleeced. Many people come here for ritualistic reasons; the wily Brahmins are ready to take them for a ride, capitalizing on superstitions. Somewhere in the mêlée the concept of God and goodness of scriptures and sacred thoughts are lost. It becomes crass commercial; exigencies and compulsions.

While Ajmer (Dargah) is about unconditional love to almighty, there is so much spiritual energy inside the dargah that one feels a sense of ecstatic running over the body. Despite the chaos there is a sense of peace, it’s pure. I sat at one of the corner for a long time. Later I went out and had lunch (very much Non veg). There is so much emphasis on charity for poor that it is hard to miss. There is also a sense of communitarian feeling. Yet one knows life not about human beings only, it’s also about birds and animals and that is what one starts to miss. The Nature, the vibrancy of different life forms not isolated from understanding of almighty…I start to feel that absence. Also one tends to find similar type of people the foreign backpacker crowd is absent. There is also feeling of restriction as one gets circumspect, that relative carefree of Pushkar is absent. Ajmer too is not isolated from commercial influence (I found some even selling mannat ka dhaga).

So if you go to Pushkar don’t miss Ajmer, vice versa true. And that is what I have been doing and believe me it’s an immensely satisfying journey. I guess in the end it’s about silence. It’s about awareness of silence in the music. I have nothing against religion but I prefer more silence, the nature. Sometimes a garden, a long walk in the woods can give you peace, understanding and awareness of what is referred to as almighty.

Post Script: in recent times cameras are not allowed inside these places of worship. I took photos from outside that I will put in photo blog in few days (I have been too much into my computer-reading many downloads and so on…so kind of tired, bear with me).

Two villages that play host to birds…

It is amazing that there are two villages in India one located in south and another in the north part of the country that share love for birds. Birds are quite sensitive creatures, migratory birds in particular are quite cautious in their dealing with human beings. So when they settle amidst human habitation it only shows the trust. In these two villages the process of respect and trust between human beings and birds took many centuries to consolidate. Now that is incredible. This blogger had the fortune to visit these two villages that are located thousands of miles apart. Two villages that speak different languages but understand birds. In one village it is about Pelicans and painted Storks wherein the other it is Demoiselle Cranes, apart f rom these there are host of other species of birds. Both villages though are economically quite backward with some very poor people. But the houses and lanes are mostly clean and people have dignity about themselves. Infact in both villages I was offered food, how unprofessional!

So here is this blogger’s travel diary of these two villages.

Kokkare Bellur (Mandya District. Karnataka)

The translation of the village name means homes of Storks. This village is located about 80Kms from Bengaluru (Bangalore). From the Bangalore-Mysore highway about 70odd Kms just after Maddur there is a road going inside. From here it is about 45minutes journey into some fertile land and cluster of villages (it is amazing that few Kms from big cities almost always are small villages). There is bus service but it is once in an hour. Amazingly enough Kokkare Bellur signals itself much earlier with many birds flying around. But it’s only in Kokkare Bellur that Pelican and painted Storks like to settle, even the villagers have no explanation for this just that it is happening for centuries. Almost all the canopies of trees are taken by these birds. While painted Storks don’t mind small trees, Pelicans only nest on taller trees with sturdier branch. There are also other birds like egrets, pond and night herons (grey heron come to roost at night), even white ibis. There are hundreds of other species that could be found in an around the village (apart from common birds I spotted bush chats, robin, hoopoe…the snaps though didn’t come out that well).

In 1996 ‘Mysore amateur naturalists’ started a pen for orphaned birds (in last decade or so they have put back over 300 hundred pelicans into wild). Nanje Gowda was the man who took care of the pen, he was a proud man who could converse in English (anyway my Kannada is quite bad; I haven’t really picked up this language despite some efforts, can understand though. I guess as one tends to get older conversing becomes limited). Nanje Gowda introduced himself, and yes he is a graduate (and so while he glanced through a newspaper he mentioned that it is going to be hung parliament!!). The pen was rudimentary mostly running on donations it had wired enclosures few pelican chicks were being fed fresh fish- that was caught from the river nearby. One chick had its wing broken “will not be able to fly ever” informed Mr. Gowda. On weekends during holiday season they conduct awareness programs for children from cities as also summer camps. In recent years outreach programs have been initiated aimed at creating awareness about birds and conservation to surrounding villages that share foraging space of the birds. Over a tea in the nearby shop (they use jaggery instead of sugar that taste quite good) Mr.Gowda mentioned that there have been no support from the government, the initiatives of creating awareness and saving orphaned birds were from contributions by people. He mentioned that the government has infact done harm when few years back they allowed high voltage transmission line through the village. This has killed many birds “they could have chosen a different route or maybe cover these wires with insulation” he says. Don’t know whether the bureaucrats understands these! These long winged birds are in constant danger of being electrocuted.

I spent few hours roaming around the village and outskirts. It is an amazing sight to see huge birds sitting on branches nearby while people carry on with their daily chores. I saw some very active people. While some women were involved in packing tamarind, many household were into sericulture, most though were involved in agriculture related activities.

I found this old man who was mending his house roof with coconut palm leaves, I stopped to observe him. He saw my shadow and asked without looking up “from which place”, I said “kerala”, he said “that’s good” and enquired whether I had my lunch. All this without even looking at me!! Clearly he was used to intrusive tourists!

Keechan village (Jodhpur District. Rajasthan)

From Jodhpur there is a small town called Phalodi on the north towards Bikaner, it is about 4hours on road, there are frequent State bus service. From Phalodi Keechan is about 20minutes drive (autos ply very frequently on this route, charge 5Rs). This part of the world is semi desert with sandy landscapes and sparse vegetation. It is therefore amazing that Keechan village has been playing host to Demoiselle cranes that migrate from Siberia for five to six months every year for last many centuries. Last few years had been quite bad for this beautiful creature with war in Afghanistan and Iraq taking it toll.

Demoiselle cranes are dainty birds that are very cautious of humans. They come in hundreds and are a sight to watch against the sand dunes. The villagers have provided a space for the birds to feed. Jowar (don’t know the English term. Millet?) is the basic diet that is fed. Tons of feed is spread everyday morning and evening. The expense is covered by donations. Marwaris are rich community that generously donates for welfare of animals and birds. Villagers had opened up their home terrace for tourists to watch these birds when they land for morning feeding (I found few Europeans, with sophisticated cameras), they also have placed chairs and few pages on these storks, and water to drink (all these as courtesy, no money charged. How unprofessional can people get!!). It is an amazing sight to watch hordes of graceful birds alighting and flying away followed by another bunch. In the afternoon these birds rest at the pond nearby, so I came back again in the afternoon to observe them.

Rattan lalji is an elderly man who is responsible for the feeding and taking care of injured birds. He stays in the richer part of the village. Three kids became my guide and took me to his house on the way they talked about the village and themselves. One kids father was a teacher in a school of “1^st to 5^th standard” and he was the only teacher there! While the other kid's father “carried the keys of jail” and he was really proud of it, he explained in detail how his father bashed up few thugs! They also took me around the village and showed me carved elephant of the local temple. I gifted them each a ballpen and some chocolates from a shop nearby.

 Rattan lal ji was busy churning curd when I entered his house! As we got talking his wife took up the chore. He insisted on tea and biscuits “ann ko kabhi na nahi karna chahiye. Kabhi nahi” (don’t say no to food. Never). I meekly agreed, although I don’t like biscuits I ended up eating all, the last few he pushed onto my palm despite resistance! I have experienced this before, in most Indian household they feel the guest is being polite by taking less of what is offered, so the onus is on them to be take up the cause, even vigorous protest don’t work! His wife asked me to shift my chair to other side of the room as I was blocking the path of the cat that usually visit during this time! Rattan lalji explained to me about demoiselle stork and said he considered them as his children, he was quite dramatic about it. He showed me photos of injured birds on my request, as there were no injured birds in the pen. He was very meticulous about keeping records of expense and contributions, people from across the country and around the world had contributed. I too contributed 200Rs, he insisted on writing my details on the book and receipt.

On the way back I met the man who had told me about Ratan lalji. Now this elderly man was someone who loved talking. He said he had come to Bangalore when there was a big circus fire many decades back. Although he spoke quite loud he came quite near me with eyes closed as he gave his version of the birds (as he spoke I took a snap of him!). He poked his finger on my chest and said “ye chidiya bohut chalak hoti hai raat ko pehera rakhti hai. Koi pas aye tho aise chonch se marthi hai aise” (very clever these birds, at night they keep some as their guards if any one comes near they attack with beaks, like this), he poked me again! I thought he was being funny but found him quite serious with his narrations. Then putting his hand on my shoulder he explained other habits of birds (like they are very suspicious, and that they lay their eggs in Siberia and come here so when they go back chicks are ready and so on “bohut chalak hoti hai” was his verdict on storks. (The laying eggs part I am not sure whether true, I am trying to get the details from Net). He also blessed me (?!) for coming all the way from Bangalore to see the birds “Indians kum athe hai, jadather videshi athe hai” (Indians rarely come, it is mostly foreigners)

By the time I came back to feeding area the foreigners had left. I saw few peacocks roaming around the village so positioned myself to take photo, the peacocks didn’t find it amusing and scampered away. In the meantime the news had spread among the kids circle that there is a fellow who is giving pen and chocolates. And so a small group of children waited for me, I somehow managed to convince them about later visit and walked towards the bus stop.

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There is much to Imagining India

Chinua Achebe the well known African writer (this blogger wonders why he is not a Nobel laureate) in his selected essays book titled Hopes and Impediment gives an insight from a story Ambiguous Adventure that I quote here “in the first part of the story the proud rulers of the Diallobe people-bearers of the crescent of Islam in the west African savannah for upon a thousand years- are suffering traumatic anguish of defeat from French imperial arms, and pondering what the future course of their life should be. Should they be send their children to the new French school or not? After a long and anguished debate they finally opt for the school but not on the admission that their own institution are inferior to those of the French nor on the aspiration that they should become like the French in due course, but rather on the tactical grounds only they must learn from their new masters ‘the art of conquering without being right’.

The trouble with their decision, however, is that the children, these ‘wanderers on delicate feet’ as poet Senghor might have called them, these infant magi launched into an ambiguous journey with an ambivalent mandate to experience, are doomed from the start to distress and failure”.

The ‘art of conquering without being right’ is where English language need to be placed in Indian context too. Chinua Achebe brilliant observations over the decades have much significance in understanding post colonial societies. Nandan Nilekani (one of the guy who runs successful IT Company Infosys) recently wrote a book Imagining India (the earlier part of the discussion on the Net was the money he got for the book!!. It is quite a decent book with some insights and lots sincere of efforts. But some part he shifts from Imagining India to Imagined India!!. His views are essentially that of a businessman, the tunnel view is rather apparent. I though find the book quite interesting and therefore a good buy. Bargained from pavement for 120Rs. The book is definitely not worth 700Rs…seriously I don’t know why books are so costly these days?). Nilekani spends a chapter on English language (referring it as ‘Phoenix tongue’ yes the historical contexts are well researched and written quite lucidly); however it is obvious that his concerns are that of a pragmatic businessman. In the process though the insights are valuable and helps understand “art of conquering without being right”. Clearly English in this part of the world enhances career opportunity but the examples he gives are quite a give away of the prevailing mentality. An English trainer says in the book which Nilekani quotes “they know that if they learn English before they move to the city, they will land much better paying jobs. It’s the difference between working as construction worker or being the manager of the construction team”. Nilekani goes on ecstatically on different examples on ‘phoenix language’. This blogger has nothing against English but the idea that English defines merit is a hogwash that has started to define incredible mediocre India. But then Nilekani is running a BPO too so his tunnel view is not awkward at all. Anyway we should be thankful that he didn’t give example like “the difference between construction worker and engineer is English” which might seem funny but many in India do think it is serious!!. And in many cases that precisely is the difference. Why do you think such atrocious building are being made?. Maybe he is right these jobs don’t really require any competence the reason why they are high on English based merit. It is about how ‘we’ are comfortable with ‘them’ rather than how competent they are.

The difference between a manager and a construction worker is English works well with “art of conquering without being right”. The phoenix language is harbinger of mediocrity in Indian context is quite uncomfortable reality for Indian elite. Since that would be looking on to oneself, the constructed merit falls short of competence required for the job.

This blogger as stated has nothing against English, realizes that people are economically and socially insecure and that associating oneself with English (as also western sensibilities) has substantial benefits in the contemporary world. I am appalled that English is not taught in some government primary schools. Every child should have access to English language otherwise it need to be considered as denying basic right, it is as much handicapping the child. English should be essential part of primary education. Studies by linguists (in particular Chomsky) have shown beyond doubt that a child can grasp atleast three languages before he/she reaches age of 8 or 9. Indeed most Indians are multilingual so English could be an easy addition. But yes a child should be taught in mother tongue otherwise it will crush children “the wanderers on delicate feet”. “Saraswat Brahmins” like Nilekani “can see the opportunity” where ordinary mortals like us may not is gloating of the mediocre market driven society we live in (again it is well researched book and a written with lots of sincerity, and I strongly suggest it. Nelikani is a great guy).

If every one becomes comfortable in English then “art of conquering without being right” will not work. Incidentally there is nothing to conquer but yes it will make us understand, it will help to bring out the truth. The truth that those who blabber English are not necessarily competent. And that competence is much bigger term that has to do with life and society we live in. Surely this probably will create a system wherein merit will start reflecting competence. And society becomes empathetic to surrounding.

God has better things to do than bless America!!

When you watch American politicians speak you are kind of surprised the number of times they invoke God. They generally end their speech with lines like “god bless America. God bless Americans”. That is putting too much on god. Don’t know if god is into atlas, if not then Mexico could be blessed!!. You know you can mistake few miles here and there…when you are watching from up there!!. “Well I am supposed to bless Americans not Mexicans. There I go I make mistake again!!”. That is tough one for god. Maybe the Americans could put a huge signal pointing to the sky saying “this is where you are to bless god”. Jokes apart if any politician in India were to invoke god like this it would be funny if not scandalous. I guess it is American thing since I haven’t heard it from most European leaders (like say Britishers). It is quite intriguing. This blogger has nothing against faith but find Americans quite difficult to comprehend. My hunch is that it is the majority population (middle class-that politician generally tend to address/represent) reaction to blatant form of anti faith or crassness against religion in public space in these societies (I could be wrong). The kind of regressive religious expression like against Darwin, stem cell research, abortion...you don't find anywhere else. Or is it the hyperbole about greatness of America that god has to acknowledge every now and then, an inverse jingoism?.

PS. Congratulation to Mr. Gulzar (I have attended his poetry reading. His poems are quite soulful, somewhat lost in translations though. I have read most of his poems. His simpleness is charming) and Resul Pookutty for winning Oscars. This blogger hopes that Oscars becomes truly international, and a voice to international cinema. By the way i have seen more of Anil Kapoor like for instance Mr. India (it was hugely popular), Taal...and so on. He is one of my favourite. Wonder when will indian film makers have a common platform for appreciating movies like Oscars.

Slumdog a millionaire

I happen to watch the English movie Slumdog millionaire almost two weeks back. I got to congratulate them for atleast making me go to the theatre!!(I am not much into going to theater to watch movie), tickets are quite costly in the malls, it is unbelievable but popcorn cost 50Rs!! (just couldn’t believe it when I first saw!!). While traveling I do watch movies but prefer smaller, older theatres. Malls are the same everywhere, they lack character or the local flavor. They are as if cloned or implanted, it is a shame. Most importantly it confuses me I have to tell myself I am in Bengaluru and not in Gurgoan or Pune!!. I am sure it must be same in London or Los Angeles. They call this development!!. The flip side of older theatres is that they are not maintained properly and sometimes infested with rats, cockroaches and yes prostitutes (want to get a quick job there?. This line I know atleast in five languages). I recall there was a theatre in Chennai decade back, now closed, next to the flyover opposite to American consulate that showed English movies and the rule was once you bought the ticket you could be in as long as you want to and they kept on showing the same movie again and again!!. It is anybody’s guess what happens inside!!.

Enough digression this blog is supposed to be about Slumdog millionaire!!. Well it is not an Indian movie but a movie made on India. That distinction is very important as also the fact that it is made by a foreigner. I absolutely loved the first part of the movie, the kids where fun to watch and they carried lots of energy and rawness. It is refreshing that they were chosen from real life situations and not from disgusting ads as is the case in incredible India. There is a scene wherein the kid jumps into pool of shit, quite funny that one. The slums and actions-the cacophony, the chaos were captured quite brilliantly. But soon the movie slips into bit of a caricature on Indians for western audience. The scenes that got me cringing was when the kids start to speak in English (you see we have to reach the drawing room of the West, the onus is on us-also referred to as enterprising), in India if you can speak such flawless English you have actually made it, ask any chatteriti in the subcontinent. It is easy to get a job or influence people if you know that much English (what do you think I am doing!). Suddenly the movie became more of babalogs fancy dress party, the reason probably it caught the imagination of some section in the mall. It is about falling into western narration. Wherein the reality has been so much mutilated that it no longer the reality. Atleast they could have worked on the script to give a context on how the kids caught the English, rather than springing it as something quite normal (further friends don’t start speaking in different language as they grow up in slums. They might with foreigners they meet in tourist spots!!). Frankly I was expecting a scene on Taj Mahal, it doesn’t strain the western audience, the clichés.

Western culture is more confession oriented (much to do with Christianity). Church’s place is now taken by media. The reason they have so much enthusiasm in making private public. If not you are hypocrite, the reason why certain western narration driven section (incidentally there is huge benefits here, getting the nod of richer powerful people) have stacked all modern values within this premise. Thus most Indians since they don’t express their private feeling in public are already hypocrites. You might call someone a dog (quite derogatory in this part of the world) but making a title of a movie is unthinkable. Thousands of movies are made here but you will not have such titles, since there is something called propriety, atleast some cultural context (of course now the babalogs got a clue on how to be more controversial and be more provocative in public. I strongly believe true artists are rarely crude and are mostly compassionate). The Hindi title of the movie was “Slumdog crorepati”. What kind of title is that?!!. It should be “Jopad patti ka kutha crorepati”. It also caricatured the popular Indian movie for western audience adding some song sequence that looked more for effect, the way western movies does it. Understandably the movie didn’t do well in Hindi, it cannot. It is not about Indians, it is about Indians for West. So it might even win Oscars!!. O yah am I spoiling the party (I don’t expect anyone to read these not that I care much), not at all. I liked the movie.

Overall the movie left quite positive impact and I liked the story, it is triumph of goodness that has universality. Danny Boyle has done a good job. I loved the quiz master (Anil Kapoor, I recall seeing Tezab). Now here is a character who is devious and doesn’t want the boy to win (even fed him wrong answer, and goes to extend of getting him arrested) and when he wins he starts to dance with all enthusiasm. That was brilliant characterization, it amazingly fits into Indian context. The Indian elite have that amazing quality. Push them down as much as you can if you can’t then try to gain from their gain is the mantra that rules. Being shamelessly selfish as also stamping on others for personal gain is now giving new meaning for being professional. East has finally met West. This typically Indian story has found resonance around the world is rather amazing.

Frankly I came to know about Oscars when I was studying in college. Never knew it was such a big deal (some in Indian media are quite horny about it. Some even getting fits of orgasms as they talk about Oscars!!). But the idea that West is discovering India is rather appalling (I guess it is more about Indian elite desperately wanting to be discovered. There is a stampede going on). I have nothing against Oscars. Oscar winning movies do maintain high standards. Last year I watched two movies Crash and Mystic River, both were brilliant. Clint Eastwood, after watching his cowboy movies I never thought would come out with Mystic River…that movie affected me a lot, such subtleties. It was amazing.

Rahman phenomenon: A.R.Rahman is such a brilliant guy that he is unbelievable. I absolutely loved the songs in Roja (when I heard decades back, I was amazed). He produced some amazing stuff over the years. If the West has “discovered” him recently that is their fault (shall we say incompetence), frankly I (as audience) am not bothered about this discovery. The song that I heard recently that was remarkable (I would say divine) was from Jodha-Akbar “kwaja mere kwaja…”. Not only that it was also picturised so well (Ashutosh Gawlaikar…I hope I got that one right. As an audience I feel that was the best song sequence I have seen for a very long time. There was something timeless, ethereal about it. Hope to see more from him. He is brilliant). AR Rahman also has impeccable behaviour.

As I am posting this blog I gather Rahman has won Oscars. Hey that’s great.

The terrible happenings in Pakistan

This blogger watches with trepidation the events unfolding in Pakistan. Taliban is a terrorist organization, its rising influence in Pakistan is of grave concern. Al Queda incubated in Taliban. The idea of having working relation with Taliban although looks practical and pragmatic is a dangerous step. Taliban is a negative force and a threat to humanity. They can only create hate and violence, at the core is bunch of male chauvinist pigs. They have created untold misery to common people. This blogger though hopes splinter groups are able to mend their ways but remains a skeptic, since power has emboldened their regressive attitude and intolerant world view as was witnessed in Afghanistan. Secondly does peace means lack of violence?. Afghanistan under Taliban was quite peaceful place as compared to now.

Ogden Nash’s poem “A Plea for Less Malice Towards None” has these lines:
Any kiddie in school can love like a fool,
But hating my boy is an art.
This is the premise Amartya Sen’s book “Identity and Violence” tries to explore. He asks this question in one of the chapters. “How does this ‘art’ work?”.

“The illusion of singular identity, which serves the violent purpose of those orchestrating such confrontation, is skillfully cultivated and fomented by the commanders of prosecution and carnage. It is not remarkable that generating the illusion of unique identity, exploitable for the purpose of confrontation, would appeal to those who are in the business of fomenting violence, and there is no mystery in the fact that such reductionism is sought…”. He writes further “the martial art of fostering violence draws on some basic instincts and uses them to crowd out the freedom to think and the possibility of composing reasoning. But it also draws, we have to recognize, on a kind of logic-fragmentary logic”. In one of the earlier chapters he writes “the intensely anti-western nature of some of the non Christian fundamentalist movements in the world may make it implausible to suggest that they are, in fact, deeply dependent on the West”. He goes on to elaborate (it is a great book to read and strongly suggested).

This blogger believes that dependency on West for hate got a boost with policies of Bush administration (the world is paying a terrible prize for this man’s follies. Shouldn’t he be tried for crimes against humanity?). Instead of focusing on Afghanistan and trying to neutralize Taliban he has only helped Taliban by giving it wider acceptability and making hero out of Osama by his superior West posturing, attacking a nation that had nothing to do with Al Quaeda and killing innocent people (if one recalls during those heady days even small timers like Berlusconi had suggestions on Western superiority. Our man is back now. His agenda is defining that hateful West. It is amazing but I never thought Italians are such dumb people!!). The reason why Taliban grew stronger has more to do with these anti West ideologies that have got lot of acceptance in recent times. The confrontationist approach it seems has been abandoned for peace as one gathers from the dealin Pakistan. John Nash, the mathematician and game theorists (the ‘beautiful mind’ guy) discussed more than a century ago, the central issue is not whether a particular arrangement is better for all than no cooperation at all, which would be true of many alternative arrangements. Rather, the principle question is whether the particular divisions to emerge, among the various alternatives available, are fair divisions, given what could be chosen instead (from ‘Identity and Violence’).

Taliban is a threat to international peace. The acceptance of Taliban by Pakistan is an indication on how much this hate filled ideology has infiltrated into that society. It is a dangerous situation, it will lead to further radicalization. Destruction of schools and the killing of journalist in Swat the other day is only an indication of things to come it seems.

Recalling Darwin on his 200th birth anniversary

PS. Please also visit http://www.indiatogether.org/2009/feb/psa-crisis.htm to read an amazing article on "economic crisis".

When the Gods come dancing !!

Theyyam is a ritual dance that has origin in north Malabar region (kannur to be specific), traced to indigenous people that could be thousands of years old, subsequently influenced by Brahaminical Hinduism (one need add though that Theyyam has nothing to do with brahminical traditions except few influences in narrations. It remains more Dravidian than Aryan unlike Kathakali- that is dance form story telling). There are many traditions in this region that has elements from Neolithic period, Theyyam has such traits. There are mentions of Theyyam even in ancient Tamil Sangam literature. Theyyam though cannot be seen only as a ritual dance it is a direct link to god for people. That an ordinary man after certain physical and spiritual rituals (that takes few hours) can don the costume of a deity can be transformed into the same is nothing short of spectacular. The reason why the costumes and demeanor are fierce, to create awe, fear. The make-up is fiery red with amazing designs that has symbolic significance, while the costumes are meant to create a bigger and larger presence. The attire is meticulously crafted and change with different Gods. Sometimes even local heroes are elevated to godly status in collective memory through Theyyam.

The human becomes a god. In this state he attains supernatural and divine power. Speaking and moving like god with accompanying drums (chenda) heightening the movements subsequently frenzy taking over as he circulates temple ground. In the meantime it goes gruesome with hens being sacrificed and blood spilling around burning lamps. It is visually overwhelming. Thousands of years back even humans were known to be sacrificed. The fearsome God is here!!. After an hour or so the ‘god’ settles down to bless (even heal). People crowd around to get blessings of god, who is also generous with advice. This ritual could stretch to few more hours. It was an amazing experience for this blogger (more snaps in photo blog).

Congrats NDTV

The other day I was flipping through TV channels and found myself watching effort of a Channel on Environment awareness. It was quite a brave considering the compulsion under which they work. NDTV (Pronnoy is a great guy) with TERI and Toyota has done a remarkable job. I also happen to catch up BBC on Environment. I came to know that Reva- the battery driven Indian car (manufactured in Bangalore), sells more in Europe than in India!!. This is because of policies by the European governments favoring environment friendly technology. Countries like China even have green building section within the policy making; impetus is on environment friendly buildings. Wonder when will Indian policy makers wake up to the catastrophe unfolding in the name of development?.

At Mangalore Pub

This pub at Mangalore (Mangalapuram) has been in the news recently. When this blogger visited this place the other day there were not many people around nor was anyone found beating up people. That brings into question why is that when Media visit a place events happen?. Or is that events are planned with market media’s connivance?. Or most likely I could be unlucky that events don’t happen in the places I go with my camera. The only event is some peaceful people that is no event. What baffles me though is how fringe group’s acts happen in front of camera like the one in Mangalore or beating of taxi drivers in Mumbai. Got to do with premonition I guess.

More photos at Photo blog…also about Che chettan (big bro Che)!!

Clash of uncultured

In wildlife reporting there is an ethical code that is followed that is one would not interfere. Antelope will be killed and eaten by pack of lions is law of nature. But are the events happening in human societies also part of law of nature. If helpless people are attacked by thugs and lumpen common people get scared and try to save themselves but there will be some among these common people who will have go with their conscience and try save people. That is what society is all about and that is culture. That brings into sharp focus on people who hold camera (and mike, dude we also want sound byte) referred to as Media. What is their responsibility?.

Can common people be as irresponsible and cunning as market media?. So next time you see atrocity being committed no never think about the victim they are only pawns in bigger plans we have (infact planning has already started!!). If possible coax the perpetrators to be more violent and try for some spectacular angle (exclusive the better). Indeed lumpens are only too happy, they too have plans. Even thugs also like to exaggerate in front of camera. In the end it is win-win situation for both sides. It is an event now that is celebrated in studios with Delhi based experts (and so called feminists) trying to work out their share. It is clash of uncultured unfolding for coach potatoes. Incredibly both claiming a pie of culture!!. This is the symptom of mediocre market driven media that lack rigor. Clearly they resort to manipulations to cover up lack of depth or competence to cover the reality of billion people nation. Most people don’t have much trust on media, it lack credibility (some rare exceptions are there). How much liquor lobby could be behind this is also anybody’s guess. This blogger strongly feels that there should be blanket ban on liquor ads, even surrogate ads through soda and water. To consume liquor or not is a choice but promoting it is unacceptable. There is aggressive marketing of liquor and cigarette products in poorer societies. Talking about tradition (I seriously don’t understand culture and don’t mind being cultureless) even in Vedas drinking is mentioned. There are temples that have liquor as offering. Liquor has nothing to do with culture or no culture. But yes drinking at public space does put one at risk of exploitation and abuse.

First thing first if thugs call up media isn’t it the responsibility of media to inform police first (as any common people would do). The top cop of Karnataka was right to call it a small incident. The reason being there are millions of cases of inhuman acts committed on people (in particular women), just because this was caught in camera for the viewer (about people like us) doesn’t make it big or less big. Further cops don’t work for TRP they have much pressing issues (the incident in Mangalore being just one of them).

Clearly the events happening around us only show the hold of patriarchy, and this blogger believe it is going to get worst. Mangalore is one of the great place to be in, I love that place. I have spent lots of time in here (roamed around a lot in my cycle). It is quite common to have women in public spaces (cycle to kasargod and down, women particularly younger ones start missing before you reach kannur. Clearly the hold of organized religions-patriarchy). Infact I was regular to a decent joint in Udupi on Saturdays that used to serve liquor there were lots of women mostly from Manipal, nobody had any problems. Enter market media and also enter patriarchy torch bearers. You have recipe for an event.

It is funny that culture has much to do with how woman behave or do?. It is no secret that India is primitive in most parts. Gender and caste disparities are quite common. It is audacious that young men had the audacity to hit woman and have got away with it. What right these scoundrels have talk of culture?. Case of misguided youth (elders will have to take the blame. Also one need to focus on portrayal of woman in movies and ads. I believe human beings at the basic level are nice and caring it is surrounding that can create problems). Unfortunately these elements are going to get belligerent; with polarizing political–religion climate and rising unemployment (some is seriously going wrong in Mangalore region). There should be zero tolerance for these elements. Is India a soft state?.

One need add that representation of woman in panchayats has been nothing short of revolutionary. Change can go only take shape at grass root level. Frankly people mostly want to have peaceful and happy life. It is only when power seeking system and greed starts working when things start to wither. Power mongers come in the form of divisive politicians as also city based scoundrels playing victims and usurping position for common people sake (they even want to have woman’s reservation in parliament!!). Both equally dangerous. Of course one is not suggesting that ingrained gender insensitivity should be tolerated in peaceful and happy family, the focus should be children and education as also empowering women from weaker sections. Grameen bank and micro credit at the grass root level was a stupendous success for these very reasons. When Mohd Yunus was awarded Nobel Prize there were marketers who cringed and questioned the "unproductive steps". Scene now is Marketers are out with begging bowls. They don’t want micro credit but big and bigger credit- also referred to as bail out package !!.

PS. Please visit photo blog on "woman at work"