I was looking for cheaper accommodation; the fellow quoted a higher price. I told him “that price is meant for people who carry dollar, you tell me the Indian price. I am not a rich man”. Well when it comes to mo
Since it was happy mix of festive and foreign tourist season there were cultural programs organised, dancers from all over the country performed on the stage that was aesthetically done with rock carving of Arj
Early next morning much before the sunrise i was at the rock temple, i wanted to take the picture of the temple with rising sun as background, after initial threat of clouds the pictures came out quite well. These temples were redone after it was damag
All these created on a rock was most amazing, what made it remarkable was the delicate and deft handling needed since if you give one wrong chisel everything could go wrong. Surely these artists spend their lifetime creating these beauties. These sculptors and temples are considered as early form of Dravidian art
Next day i was at Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary, there is no direct bus so you have to go to Chengalpetu (takes about an hour) and fro
Phase III : Towards Matrimandir
I started from Mamallapuram much before the sunrise, my destination was Marakkanam located at about 70Kms. intention being to cover the distance by noon and anchor for the night. Some search in the Net as also talking to people suggested possibilities of lodges at Marakkanam. Thought of going parallel to ECR along the backwaters but again ended up at a dead end, this time vowed to firmly stick to ECR from now on. Sadras had some colonial Dutch forts that I was keen to visit but somehow missed it and by the time realised it i was at Kalpakkam. Kalpakkam of course is the town that has Nuclear power plant, the fast breeder Nuclear reactor-the one that uses Thorium. Thorium is obtained from Monazite sand something that is found in abundance along the beaches of Kerala, specifically Kollam. A place i have spent some time when i was kid, I recall many decades back while i was walking along the coast of Kollam i had this black coloured sand sticking to my leg, i was told it is monazite sand from which thorium is extracted. This sand is also rich in ilmenite that contains Titanium. Much later while i was doing a project at Titanium Factory i saw these black sand being converted into talcum powder! It was an amazing experience. Incidentally studies along these coastal regions have not been able to establish any definite link between cancer and Monazite.
Track from Mamallapuram to Puducherry is quite popular among bikers and cyclists. A British couple overtook me (could make out from the accent as they wished me), they were in full cycle gear and customary helmet. The cycle must have cost a fortune, they had bags carefully balanced on back carrier. Their pedalling synchronised as if floating like a pair of cranes within moment they were out of my sight. As pleasing the sight maybe i wonder why couldn’t they use treadmill at home! I came across a shallow lake along the sea and saw some fishermen wade the knee deep water spreading their net, stopped to watch their catch. These lines from the poem The Coromandel Fishers by Sarojini Naidu (more about Sarojini Naidu at iseeebirds.blogspot.com)
Rise, brothers, rise! The wakening sky
pray to the morning light.
The wind lies asleep in the arms of the dawn
like a child that has cried all night.
Come, let us gather our nets from the shore
and set our catamarans free,
To capture leaping wealth of the tide
for we are the kings of the sea!
Watching the catch by the fishermen returning from deep sea early morning is something i always do whenever i am around the coast, to see the variety of fishes and trying to identify, indeed i used to spend hours walking around the Chinese fishing nets in Fortkochi, every time they pulled the net i would be the first few to check out the fishes. Must say the catch have dwindled quite significantly in recent times. Since Chinese fishing nets are also a tourist attraction this blogger thinks that the government should extend help to these fishermen to maintain these nets. Indeed Kochi is known for Chinese nets, a gargantuan conception that was introduced by Chinese traveller ZhengHe in fifteenth century. ZhengHe is an interesting character, he was captured by Ming invaders when he was just eleven and made into eunuch, he rose to become the trusted aid of the emperor and was appointed to lead voyages. He is believed to have died along the Malabar Coast.
Along the way i saw atleast five snakes crushed under speeding vehicles, even an owl-that really was a surprise: how did that happen? I
Few children waved one boy asked “what is your name?” in English, i found that question puzzling. Why would a kid like to know my name? Then tried to put myself in the kid’s shoes and presto the revelation: he was trying to work out his English (most likely he mistook me as some elite guy who generally converse in english). I w
I stopped to have many tender coconuts along the way and skipped the breakfast. Kanchipuram district is demarcated from Villipuram by a lake that extend to the ocean, as soon as you cross this lake the terrain changes to shrubby and hotter. It’s a region marked by sparse vegetations and isolated stretches, that it was mid noon added to the discomfort. Soon i realised i am not enjoying the ride and was getting annoyed. People do put themselves in disco
Marakkanam was about five Kms away, unfortunately for me there weren’t any place to stay. There is a government guest house that wasn’t open to public. I decided to cool myself and sat next to a shop and had ‘colour’-sweet carbonated drink that cost 5R. Found myself conversing with a man, as i talked to him i came to
Puducherry was still about 30Kms away. I must mention that much before Marakkanam there is a small town that has moghul fort, i guess it is till here that Moghul rule extended, most likely led by Malik Kafur- a hindu convert. Someone mentioned that next to the fort there was a place to stay, so took a diversion for about three Km and found that it was a well furnished house and they only rent to actors and ‘famous people’ who come for shooting. Since i wasn’t both i cannot have it, anyway there wasn’t any need for them to mention all these the lodging was beyond my budget. But the best part was i found a small rather cozy alley surrounded by trees and shrubs. I sat under a tree for some time, and tried to take pictures of a very shy brown barbet. Further down some children were playing cricket under hot sun and it seems were short of a player, they insisted i should join. Found that extremely amusing, any other day i would have joined but this was getting bit sultry and i had to reach Puducherry or will be stranded on the highway that i realised didn’t have street lights. All through the route saw umpteen number of one room churches, being Sunday the mass was in full swing-louder the better being the motto.
Two mosques stood facing each other and the road went through it, followed by rows of double storey houses that were painted in bright colours. The toll roads exempt cycles, there was a mention of need for creating eco friendly surroundings. But must say highways aren’t traveller friendly at all, they seem meant only for fast moving vehicles. There isn’t any space for stopping; many accidents are reported as people park their vehicle on sideways or if there is a breakdown. I was watching this TV programs on car chase videos the other day (the one where cops chase over speeding or stolen vehicles and then pass it as entertainment for TV audience...it’s a cottage industry in US) and found that there is something called ‘service lane’. If not service lane atleast some space for people to park and stretch themselves. Few centuries back roads were
On the way i saw posters of politicians, i guess Tamil Nadu is warming up to forthcoming elections much earnestly. Mr. Chidambaram’s face in many of the posters made me smile, he looked a cross between amul baby and hema malini with ominously coloured blood red lips and an extra dose of mascara, the effect was hilarious. Don’t know how much will these influence voters!
By about five i was at Puducherry and had cycled almost 100Kms, something didn’t intend to. Auroville is like a home to me, this being tourist season i didn’t go to the ashram cottages expecting it to be full. After a quick bath went out for fish and rice curry. I need to mention here a thing or two about fish curry. For last many years i have been not exactly ‘Following Fish’ but yes Fish curry!! I have become quite an expert. Fried fish in potato gravy of Bengal, a rather pungent tasty mustard paste based fish curry of Orissa, tamarind flavoured succulent fish along Telangana, a simple coconut milk laced Mangalorean fare, spicy Kudumpulli fish curry of Travancore as also Raw mango flavoured ones of Kochi, fish moilees along kottayam, peppery Chettinadu fish curry, tomato fenugreek seeds filled kuzhambu fish curries of Chennai-a kind of thickened rasam, Goan style fish floating in thick tomato gravy.... have tasted all. Only area left is coastal Maharashtra-the Ratnagiri side. Don’t know whether coastal Gujarat is known for fish delicacies. Though i avoid fishes when i am in the interior part of the country nor prefer river fish neither fish fries but yes i do recommend Amritsari fish fry-it’s quite chatpata, as also fish fingers from carts of Pondicherry streets! And yes I also strongly recommend parsi Patra fish-steamed in green chutney, i do try to work it out in my kitchen once in a while. Fish is a serious part of my diet, and do spend a fortune. Though i prefer Pearl spot (karimeen) and Salmon, Sardine and Tuna are cheap and best. When housewives in small towns of Kerala meet they don’t ask how are you they ask what was the fish today!!
Despite strong presence of French for centuries fish curry around Puducherry has not even the trace of the much famous French culinary influence. Clearly people don’t like their food bland there are limits of accepting things and when it comes to food the lines are clear. I was reading “Following Fish” there is a mention on these lines about fish curries around the town of Tuticudi (Tuticorin) that once was a Portuguese colony “Puzzlingly, throug

Samanth Subramanian-the author of the book, must say hardly a name i would associate with someone writing about fishes! But yes it is a well written book and I strongly suggest. Though lines like “we were not in Kansas anymore” seemed to be meant deliberately for international audience, obviously I cannot be against these but just couldn’t get the joke. I have seen enough western movies to understand “last chance saloon”, thought it was quite hilarious and apt description of toddy shops around Kumrakum, some are in middle of paddy field. There though is a correction needed: Kokum is not same Kudampuli, there is a mistake here. Even reputed recipe books tend to make this mistake, i think it is time to clear this once forever. Kudampuli or Malabar Tamarind also called Gambooge in English (Garcinia cambogia) is a small round orange like fruit that when dried becomes dark. These are used in ayurveda quite extensively. For culinary purpose except for keralites these find favor with Coorgis (where it is referred to as Kachampuli), and nowhere else as of my knowledge. While Kokum (Garcinia Indica) is obtained from a fruit tree endemic to Western Ghats, the outer cover of the fruit when dried is referred to as Kokum. They too have wide medicinal and cosmetic use. They are popular as drinks-a darkish red colored sweetened in water, also used as substitute for tamarind in Konkan –Maharashtra even Gujarat region. I guess it is also used in Rogan Josh from Kashmiri wazwan. Kokum and Kudampuli therefore are NOT same and cannot even substitute each other (ask me i made that mistake once while in delhi where getting Kudampuli was a task). They don’t look similar, the texture smell are world apart. Kokum gives a sour taste and exudes red color when put in water, while Kudampuli is acidic and much bitter gives faint brown color.
Puducherry beach is a pleasing place to be in, towards the south part of the beach the French influence is apparent and posh while the other part buzzing with life. I recommend fish curry rice at Aristos, though the service is bit tardy and chaotic the food-fish curry rice- is tasty and filling. Better would be to get it parceled since the place does get crowded, eating in relaxed ambience is what i prefer but rarely get the opportunity. It is sad to note that Indian Coffee House has closed down and moved to much smaller basement.
Next day i was up and cycling Auroville
1. Auroville belongs to nobody in particular. Auroville belongs to humanity as a whole. But to live in Auroville, one must be the willing servitor of the Divine Consciousness.
2. Auroville will be the place of an unending education, of constant progress, and a youth that never ages.
3. Auroville wants to be the bridge between the past and the future. Taking advantage of all discoveries from without and from within, Auroville will boldly spring towards future realisations.
4. Auroville will be a site of material and spiritual researches for a living embodiment of an actual Human Unity.
Miira Alfassa or Mother (1878-1973) was born in Paris. She came to Puducherry and founded Auro

I leave with these words from The Mother that i read at the reception
A dream
There should be
somewhere on earth
a place which no nation
could claim as its own,
where all human beings
of good will who have
a sincere aspiration,
could live freely as
citizens of the world and
obey one single authority,
that of supreme truth;
a place of peace
concord and harmony...