Friday, March 18, 2011

An anecdotal study on nature of MNCs, exploitative products and precious water resource

During the years 2004-2006 i happen to visit many of CocaCola Pepsi plant across the country to document exploitative nature of MNC product that depletes natural resources and cause misery to common people. It also brings into limelight the biased nature of market media (freedom of expression is another sham). During these years Pepsi also got its CEO from India- it was a well thought out plan to influence billion dollar market. Our economist minded PM (whichever fiscal year he was born) is more concerned about GDP and perception of the Western nation towards India, his incompetence (lack of perceptiveness) is bewildering.

The intention of this blog is to bring all the visits into a single space (by the way earlier visits were sent across to Crude woman -the dustbin was working on the “meh kya chatoongi?” framework. It is about exploiting the situation for personal gain, an affliction. It has fixers, exaggerations, trivialization...so on. It took me sometime to understand these miserable people). Liberal values in Indian context is an easy game, it is when the progenies venture from these cozier home ground to the murkier terrain of post liberalism that the claws start to show.

Despite the fact that ground water exploitation by the exploitative products has been well documented there has not been much policy framework to prevent these since years (atleast that is what Mr KJ Joy- Forum for Policy Dialogue on Water conflict in India-told me the other day). It is amazing.

These writings are cut paste from what i wrote many years back, those days i was bit excitable, and is reflected in the style of writing (the readers will have to tolerate it), it’s just the way i was. With age catching up i have become quite sober and restraint, so will not be using the language the way it is used here. So bear with me.

At Kaladera (Rajasthan):
I happen to visit Coca-Cola factory at Kaledera, Rajasthan in 2004 October (this piece was written at that time). It’s around 2hrs travel in local bus from Jaipur to a junction from where one has to catch a jeep, which drops you 2kms from the industrial area where the plant is located. Earlier I read an article in the Times of India at the hotel reception (jaipur) where I was staying. While the print media from Delhi largely ignored the struggle. War for Water is an article, which emblematizes what McMedia and paid news is all about. If you read it carefully you will realise how an event is reported into an opinion for the exploitative product (in this case, it could be Pepsi too) even with a menacing snap of the product "don’t mess". It reports that coca cola has only 2 borewells. While in a letter on 2nd October (irony of the date is not gone unnoticed) boys at coke responds to news report in a newspaper on Kaladera march Sunil Gupta the marketer thug at coke writes that not many people took part in the march as reported. True but it’s much more than what he claims ten times to be exact (it's less considering that around 7000 people are listed as voters) Many people particularly school children were prevented from participating in protest march since the police put "regulatory orders". Many villagers also assert that coke "gifted" cops "crates of coke". Despite all this one member from majority of families did participate as the school teacher said "people are aware now but we cannot do anything we have our own life it’s for the government to take action". I happen to speak to a villager who participated, one main reason was people didn’t want to loose their daily earning. As the chai wallah who did not participate in agitation confirmed "who will pay for the lose of the daily earning? In fact on the day of protest I had more business ". People around here don’t have the luxury for protest march and attending seminars. The boy from coke also clarifies in the letter that its not 2 but 4 borewells "…and generally 2 wells are used in rotation". How sad. One would expect thugs at coke lamenting through streets of kodambakum (why kodambakum forgods sake?why ask me?. Ask those thugs) with soul rending muruga kapathingu we ave onnly two borewells muruga thandava . But no it will not happen. All is well here with 2 borewells !!. They are sucking 80-90 truck full load of carbonated drink in peak months of May and June to dil mange more for McDonald crowd and "modernity" holes. In the photo are group of people with whom I spend nearly an hour near the jeep stand. This motley group which gathered at teashop had farmers, drivers and even a teacher from a local school. Talking to them was a revelation. They have been keeping tag of the movements of vehicles for some time. Surprisingly none of the shop sell cokepepsi !!.
"So have they tasted the thunder?" Yes they have only once "meeta gas pani hai". True.

Further there are enough reports to prove how severe the situation is through ground water depletion, it’s causing an ecological disaster. It’s shocking that when people in the same state are facing drought and while protestors are killed by the police "pani chors" are being protected to satiate ab pyaas hai badi of dimwits and rapist minded.
Thugs at coke have "gifted" borewells to villagers, which is useless as the water table has dipped considerably "in last few years after coke came". In normal language this "gift" is bribe. All the people I met were unanimous that sarpanch was given 10 lakhs rupees. While the MLA was "gifted" with a vehicle- aat lak ki gaddi . In the international level I am aware of many agreement against unethical business practice. For Multibillion Company like cokepepsi few lakhs is no big deal. And in an impoverished and corrupt society most people can be bought. They have bought the media too. It’s no secret. The issue is certainly not local (the cokepepsi anyone drinks in delhi doesn’t come from borewells of greater kailash) and the attempt of these exploitative and untenable products to "win" over local villager will not work. Infact it’s not working. On the government part, coke is given 24hrs of electricity supply while a farmer only 4-5 hours which also is not very regular. And they extended the no objection certificate (NOC) from 300ml bottle to 2lit bottle and 5litres. They extended the arrangement to 2 more years. Money not only speaks but acts too!

The McMedia "reports" that "majority of people feel that coca cola factory has helped the villagers and the factory by and large has not disturbed their lives". So much of feelings here. This definitely conforms to the brief the coke website declares "Local communities have welcomed our business as a good corporate neighbor." Such a dainty paradise. Where angel winged peddlers and marketeers descent with all goodies. Sorry to spoil the fun of our embedded journyboy, ground reality is different. The mood here can be summarized as bitter. Now when I go through the snaps of these people I am reminded of what I read in the old of issue of Time magazine, which I bought from a pavement in Mumbai. Ram Charan a columnist writes in Managing the Best -
" Robert Goizueta, the late longtime CEO of coca cola, proved that there is no such thing as mature business(??!!). His critical insight was an ability to define exactly what business coke was in –a task that is far harder than you think. For instance he taught his executives that when they set goals for market share, they needed to focus on the share of stomach, not the share of carbonated beverage. His adversary was water, not soda. Goizuetta gave real meaning to the word diversity, developing a multinational talent pool."

The magazine also reports “ in 1998 coke did 1billion serving a day in nearly 200 hundred countries and closely tracked its market penetration in each country, measured in per capita serving (highest in Luxemburg, at 453 servings a year. Lowest in Turkmenistan, at one serving a year). Cokes challenger for world brand supremacy is McDonalds but that’s not a bad thing, either. McDonalds sell just one brand of cola: Coke.” Yah nothing bad here. It’s a fair business. Lovely&fair. Yeaaah it surely is "far harder than we think". Of course water is the main adversary and people who drink water are culprit to be targeted.

The man with whom I spend lots of time was sitting in a tea shop very near to the factory (well I had too many cups of tea!!! It’s difficult to carry on conversing otherwise, one might feel imposing on the shop keeper.). He was the person I liked too (the first snap here). He also liked me since I had walked all the way in midsun (well I couldn’t find a vehicle so walked 2 kms, incidentally forgot my cap too!!). He had retired as driver for a 'saheb in delhi'. His approach to the issue was otherworldly sansar ek sagar hai yeha kuch na kuch tho hota hi rahata hai. Bad news for pepsicoke this elderly man doesn’t drink carbonated stuff. Even if we assume he does, his share of stomach will be less. As you can see like many people around here his stomach size is very small. Some are even severely malnourished. No stomach sharing here. So what’s the marketing strategy boss.

His conclusion to discussion was atma ko dukh puhchane walla koi kam nahi karna chahiye. His argument was mostly: if it is wrong why doesn’t the government stop it. He extended it to gutka also which even the shopkeeper agreed. I too always wondered why when they know that plastic is dangerous, when they know that crackers are nuisance, they don’t have laws restricting the use (ofcourse one forgets "learned" unclejis at supreme court have much more enlightened understanding on gutkha. Ab kya bhaishaeb jamai dukhan chala raha hai ab bandh thodi kara sakhte hai so verdicts the supreme judge!!). Every year millions of rupees are spend on ads against crackers (even today’s newspaper carries one by Ministry of environment). School children are gathered. It’s referred to in elite circle as "mass mobilization". The problem here is mobilization is to be done by masses to make the government act and not by government for the people to act!! When anything is irrefutably proved to be wrong then it’s time to restrict, if not stop entirely at one go. They spend money on ads telling us not to misuse electricity. It’s a joke these ads. No middle class ever misuses these basic commodities for the simple reason that they have to pay for it. Few years back where I was staying they didn’t allow even water heater. During winter the house owner (who was 82yr old fellow) got up early morning and stood in front of electricity meter. You switch on something he was there knocking the door. The only people gaining out of these dumb ads are peddlers at the expense of public money.

There is also this contention of "250 illegal soft drink" plants, which seems to be bottling spurious cokepepsi. Maybe but to say that they are using gallons of water will be a joke, further people in this part are not McMinded (feudal definitely). A conservative estimate puts the water extracted in 7 months from March to September 2003 was 1,48,259 cubic meters of water (not to forget the waste produced, and water table dipped to aquafiers around 100 feet). Most cokepepsi guzzlers are tourists. There is a drinking water shortage; access to potable water is a serious issue here. Despite all this it is heartening to note that some places have traditional sarai providing free water to travelers.

Most of the local brands (like kalagoda etc.) have been wiped out. Local brands that have survived are generally by product of systemic reaction like in Ahmedbad I went to a "muslim" shop and saw this writing: Only Arabee drink available here. Just for the heck I asked for pepsi. The waiter and the owner stared me as if I have blurted a sin. This obviously was not in response to exploitative nature of pepsicoke but as hatred to American products. Another local brand sosyo (I hope I got it right) managed to survive. I guess it’s a very old brand since it finds mention in menu at local restaurants. While in Mumbai I found bottled flavored milk (and even 'pure' cow milk, it's bottled as that) doing brisk business. I told this man who was running the shop that one doesn’t get bottled milk in Delhi and he started speaking abuse about dilliwallas, which was a shock I guess I touched some raw nerve there. I didn’t wait to find if it was a habit. In western coast also there is "health" drink made from Kokum which is quite popular but sales no doubt are dwindling.

The strangest thing that I saw at kaledera coke plant was there was no sign of the corporation insignia (in snaps you can see). The only mention is on the wall, which is almost peeled off about the waste management efforts (Another joke which is well documented in kerala). Cokepepsi spend millions of dollars on ads (off course everything from that 2 small borewell. Who’s kidding?) But when it comes to their plant presto they are hiding. This surreptitiousness is not surprising. Thugs have that mindset. As villagers said "pani chor". The only ad in the 3km vicinity is next to where that old man sat near the tea stall 500 meters off the plant which quite appropriately announces Jo chahe ho jaye. Such arrogance. Such blatant exploitation. Scoundrels have come in the form of investment and all the better future for us.

A retailer in pokharan mentioned that police has raided the plants of local brands. The reason it seems was they were manufacturing "substandard product". It was "health hazard" (so cokepepsi Ladies and Gentlemen are torchbearer of standards and healthy life in this part of the world. While Outlookwalle mehtaji will vouch for “within 30minutes instant modernity”! One is feeling very ignorant these days I guess I have to learn lots of things. Probably I need to spend some time with peddlers-for acclimatization, before meeting marketeers.). The retailer also said that the "margin through local brands were better for them. Cokepepsi gave less". So the argument on employment and retailer benefit is also too shallow. Anyway these definitely are not the issue when larger population (and often marginalised) are fighting for right for basic livelihood and food security. It’s about community rights. The ruling of the Kerala High court is notable here. It says that water is the birthright of people. Even if the surface land may belong to individuals, the underground water is a common inheritance of all living beings. All the administrative machinery has a responsibility to protect this invaluable treasure of nature. Thus save the underground water from being exploited and depleted. The government has to redefine the meaning of "investment" in context to exploitative products for not only the present but future generation. Catering to the hedonistic lifestyle of few at the expense of larger impoverished section as also very fragile environment is counterproductive. Threat to basic need very often leads to social crisis. I am sure we have heard about sustainable development in many seminar (I must add most sustainable development seminars have excellent menu!!. Keep it up babus) well its time to practice some of these theories. Now is the time to practice it.

PM Manmohan singh was reported to be unusually ecstatic on hearing Bush winning the election. It’s obviously is a case of “wee bit unhinged". I am told it’s quite a common syndrome in elite circle. Yesterday the PM said in Hague that we will encourage "investment in totality". Will the PM (or any appropriate authority, if he is too busy) care to listen to the voices of common people and take a "hard look" ? The "totality of investment" concept is creating ecological-very soon socio-political problem. Will the government which has been elected to keep the interest of common man stand up and do the needy?. Even though Water is in State List, Parliament has power under Union List (56) to intervene for " law to be expedient in the public interest". Afterall it’s the Union Government that gains through Corporate Tax. Afterall. All after!!!.

At Mehdiganj (Uttar Pradesh)
It was on a very sunny bright morning that I decided to visit Mehndiganj, the site of protest by villagers against Coca Cola plant that has seriously depleted the groundwater of the region like anywhere else where these exploitative products have set up their shops. It is shocking that common people have to pay more for water which is basic needs and survival than these MNCs for luxury product not even consumed by most people of the region (inset photo of Coca cola Pepsi man!!). It is equally shocking that there are no laws to prevent these exploitations. Till recently there was no much concern about land being taken from poor people for ‘development’, many had to sacrifice their life to make the government hear. Thousands of people have recently taken out a march to Delhi so as to force the complacent government to formulate laws. The ‘rising india’ with sensex touching 20000 doesn’t have a land policy (don’t even mention land reforms!! I really would like to know the ginni coefficient of India). And the PM I am told is ‘embarrassed’ over nuclear deal not being passed and the commies are ‘not very embarrassed’… all for the nation sake, the kinds of sacrifice these leaders do!!. There are no concrete laws regarding exploitation of natural resources for profit, it is a non issue when GDP and investments are bench marks of progress.

Pepsi- Coca cola have recently taken up the cause of water harvesting, teaching us mortals on these subtleties of conservation is joke gone too far. Many marketers who have gained from these and other exploitative and demeaning products/ads have also taken up ‘causes’ having fatten themselves, this is a new trend ‘the give back thing’, kind of PR work!!. People are not amused they want stricter laws not patronizing gestures by armchair intellectuals and the city based ‘activists’ with specific aim of stampeding studios and public space or some incentives from the government-it’s about building the clout. What shocks me is why is that people from these backwards region living in abject conditions have not become Naxalites and blown up these exploitative plants, Coca cola Pepsi have no business sucking public water. People in this part of the world have amazing tolerance, it is straining though (It is gladdening that Coca cola is kicked out of plachimada. Hurray for that). There is a need for policy on natural resources particularly water that forms the most basic need and therefore fundamental right. And the policy be very well the Law- transparent and understood by people.

Mehndiganj story is no different. Located at about 20 Kms from ancient city of Varanasi, it is a small fertile village few Kms inside the main road. There is no transportation to the village, I had to hitch hike a two wheeler already occupied by two people, the youngsters were quite glad since I had asked for Nandlal Master. Nandlal Master is a weaver who took up teaching children of the area and has since spearheaded the cause; he is a prominent and respected figure (also coordinator and founder of Lok Samithi. Email is napm_up@yahoo.com) and has also trained many youngsters for employment. After a bumpy ride I was dropped in front of a newly painted modest house. I had expected a elderly if not middle-aged man but Nandlal turned out to be a young man in his twenties, he had too many incidents to relate of how people expected him to be older!!.

Nandlal Master explained that the issue in Mehndiganj is multifold apart from exploitation of groundwater and pollution, there is a case of illegal occupation and evasion of taxes by Coca Cola. The Coca cola plant at Mehndiganj was bought from Parle in 1999, till then the extraction of water was ‘within limits’. After Coca Cola bought this plant it has been withdrawing 5Lakh liters of water per day using heavy duty borewells. According to a study the water table of the region has dropped by as much as 9feet, in a recent study the table has drooped further to 18feet (till 2006). The hand pumps with no or less water has increased from 7% to 43% in last few years. Also read Thanda- Hearted Matlab: Coca Cola in India by Shira Wolf (April 2005), Marching in the spirit of Gandhi –A case study into Gandhian elements of Lok Samithi movement in Mehndiganj (Dana Van Breukelen).

Second is the issue of pollution, the hazardous sludge from the factory has seriously affected the productivity of land in the region, frustrated by lack of accountability by the government agencies the villagers dumped the sludge at UP pollution control board office. Later the test conducted by Central Pollution Control Board (CPCB) has shown it to contain high level of lead (up to 538mg/kg), cadmium (up to 86mg/kg) and chromium (134mg/kg). Here in the photo Mr. Nandlal shows the sludge provided by Coca cola to Pollution board (which the protestors got hold of through RTI, after denied) and how it is different from the sludge they dumped. Coca Cola true to its character did try its best to scuttle the issue. Since then the Coca cola is dumping its waste in a nearby village (bikharipur- I bet this village is inhabited by SCs & other impoverished people, coca cola got its caste card right!!).

Third issue faced here is the illegal occupation of land by Coca Cola. Court has found it guilty and has issued notices to vacate. In 2005 the pradhan of Mehndiganj, Ram Jivan Patel was dismissed by DM of Varanasi for illegally handing over the land to Coca Cola, he was bribed to sign the documents by Coca Cola (lucky fella since in Gangoikondon they killed the panchayat president- of course will never be proved).

Later that day after tea and home made savories, Mahendra a young man who also volunteers for Lok Samithi took me to Coca cola premise on his bike. As I was taking photos the guards warned me of dire consequences. Mahendra kept the engine running so that I could get away. But I decided to confront the burly guard ‘if I have the freedom to take the photos of Rashtrapathi bhavan why can’t this damn factory? Is it holding national secret?”. The guard, poor man, requested not to create problem for him. And so we moved on and I was dropped to the bus stand. No boondh boondh kushi kushi here!!.

Post Script: it is interesting that some metro based NGO (dealing with education) tried to buy Nandlal and his NGO (of course they were shown the door). This is precisely how they function usurping the hard work of common people and their commitment, dedication…and package it for their gain and clout. It is a huge business in cities, adept in their game they work with remarkable dexterity. They sniff for saleable, media attuned, chic issues that also have an international audience. AIDs, even issues of women are elitist to elicit western response, Discriminations in west of 'people like us' ...are trendy issues. Then of course there are those poor people our heart beats for but no, no mudding hands, we drop in for photo op or we could discuss (surely an event- they are even ready to fly to different cities!) them in our sanitized backyard!!. So where is the menu chef?!!

At Plachimada (Kerala):
Last week I visited plachimada (in palakad kerala) Traveling is one real fun. But same not true when it comes to staying in 75Rs per day rooms at seedy lodges. Sometimes it can be really be very dirty and sleep can be nightmare. Previously I used to get skin rashes now my body has become immune to these but bedbugs are one real mess. Visiting plachimada was revealing for me in many ways. I met Mr. Venugopalan of PUCL who actually spearheaded the movement when the residents started facing serious problem, as the coke factory became fully functional. With things deteriorating (stinking water adding to the woes) the local people, majority of whom are tribals (which means marginalized in the majoritarian led political set up, this probably one of the main reason why coke set up its sucking machine here) organized themselves. On April 22, 2002 first peaceful demonstration was held, quite appropriately inaugurated by Ms.C.K.Janu. The first official block was they were asked to vacate the shed constructed, which was taken over by the Police Force. The original site is now Police camp (they gotta save poor people at coke u see who are just trying to suck some water!!). Thousands of people participated in the demonstration many whom were employees of coke!!. So the next thing the coke did was to summarily terminate their service. Around 50 people were asked to leave. These people who lost their job then went in for separate strike. After much dillydallying coke took them back but this time another strategy, and that was massive employment scheme to local people particularly to the main activists in the movement. Boys seem to have taken maslow bit too seriously. As is the case with most theories it is never practical. Most people refused the offer. Now these are not people who have big money or contacts but poor casual labor. Their commitment is admirable. It is a fight for their basic needs. It is fight for survival. And the boys at Coke are facing McGregor's stick!!!. It also to be noted that before the protest the company paid (for 8 hour shift) the labors 60Rs (for men) and 40Rs (for women). This was increased to 100Rs and 80Rs respectively. As you can see the rate for women was almost doubled, a bait since most protester were women. Women are in most cases put in severe pressure due to water shortage. It is also interesting to note that Government of India in November 1999 raised the Minimum wage to 45 Rs from existing 35Rs. If the information I have is true then coke has been violating minimum wages rules. Further what about equal pay for equal work?. Why women are paid less??.

On the 50th day of the protest there was some violence. The protestors dumped the effluent from coke factory which stink like rotting carcass and dumped it at the gates of coke factory( they should have send a packet each to celebrities who come in cokepepsi ads. as also those who gain indirectly from this misery). The police resorted to violence and excessively abusive. They were including women and children were hauled into police vans "like dogs". The protestors showed extreme restraint despite the provocation from the police force. Many people were injured. Since then they have done many marches. The day I went to meet them was 1148 th day of silent non violent protest. It is be noted that most people are daily wages laborers with no financial security. So they sit in the strike by turn as the other go for work. It is now reduced to symbolic presence. Just an hour before Ms. Ajitha the legendray ex-naxalite visited (she is one person I really wanted to meet. I have heard so much about her since childhood that she is more of a mythical character for me!!). As I was interacting with the protestors news came that (ex-MLA Mr. Krishnankutty himself brings the news) that the panchayat has cancelled the license. There was a minor celebration!!. There is also in recent times a divide in the political parties as the protestors want the pepsi factory located few Kms away at puthusheri to be closed. Pepsi factory is in sparsely populated area so the some political party don't see the gain!!!. But nevertheless it is a matter of time before they are closed. Water is a public property and the people have the right to protect their increasingly fragile environment. We have lot to learn from the indigenous way of life. I here point to incredible people: Bishnois. The world needs to know and appreciate these people. They have very beautiful understanding and they are the reason we live. They don't live for us.

The Outlook magazine did some mischief in providing space for trashing their own article by Cokepepsi !! Such is the power of money. Such is the "power" of media. Many others in the "free media" have altogether refused to identify the problem, tabloids are their main news. The henchman here is one Murthyboy who invites the readers to "experience the world class practices implemented (at coke)" . Thanks for the invitation but people not dumb. Water is sucked in and trash is given out. Water is not yours, trash is yours. In that case why they are not adhering to the demands of the panchayat. This is an untenable product. Why not this "world practice" be taken to fields of Sweden or Las Vegas. Why create misery for already impoverished for a luxury product for indulgent?. Why not drill water from chanakya puri or juhu. Outlook walle Mehtaji even has the audacity to come in a TV channel and say things like "…I don't know why we Indians give too much importance to western media like Time magazine??…they are just laughing their way to bank….". Sure Mehtaji and what has any of the "popular mainstream " magazine and newspaper got to do with realities of this nation except maybe as fringe news and peripheral alien world existence (this is not to deny that there are some incredible columnists in all the magazines and newspaper i have come across. Why don't they come together and create something new!!). I am sure Mehtaji has heard the word: Power. Trinngg. Trinngg. Rings the bell!!!. Ditto. Time magazine is powerful than you can ever be. As a national magazine is more powerful than any local magazine can be. Simple as that. So stop whining and "behave professionally". Also I as a common man do not have much faith in a system that is the product of socio-historical reason. The power structure here is not necessarily on competence. The publishers will definitely not allow any disturbing the applecart over kamai. For the same reason I have more faith in international media. So I use the globalized means to express my anguish as is experienced by majority of people in this nation. Fashion parades do have its space but not the kind it is given (don't know if there is no much media glare how people like crude woman spent her precious time!!). In this context I am ecstatic about the developments in South America particularly in Bolivia. Yes. Great. Time to kick out that thin slime of elites mostly byproducts of colonizers who have been sucking on the people. The beautiful people who knew so much: The Indians. This is beginning of history. Just the beginning. The way Che prophesized. Just the way it should be. USA has lots to answer in quelling the democratic movement in south America. Why there is no significant presence of "indigenous, aboriginal" people in the decision making sections of Australia and New Zealand??.

This is global fight and the truth has no option but to win. It will take its own time but win it will. That is how the world will be balanced. It is going to be a paradise. Below are some snaps I took at plachimada with some explanations.

Photo one: this is spot of crime. It covers 34 acres of precious land. Few years back people in this region had no much water or environmental problem. Majority of people are adivasis (or "indigenous" as they say).
Photo two: this is Mr. Shaktivellu who is casual labor and one of the forefronts in the protest. All the details regarding the movement were provided by him. He is against violence but doesn't rule it out in future. "this exploitation has to stop…we want to live". His means of income is very limited but he is committed to the cause. "water is my basic need and I don't want anyone to give it me….this our land…..this is our water…".
Photo three: this is a place few kms from coke factory, where I dropped for tea. They don't have problems which plachimada faces. They have friends and relatives in and around plachimada whose life has become miserable after the coke started to suck the water. Yes if given job in coke they will take!!. Well we live in a world where people even kill for money so what are "insignificant" environmental problems. Of course showing smoking scene is important part of "creative expression". I didn't know Indian film industry is hinged on smoking scenes on the screen. Such an outcry!!!. Poor poor people. By the way I got spondylitis both lumber and cervical (severe one.….its really is very painful) by traveling in unreserved compartments of train!!!. Yes we should remove unreserved compartments. Yes puerile. Very much liking I do!!!. Liking I do very much!!!

At Padathur in Shivganga District (Tamil Nadu):
Padathur is small village around 10Kms from the Shivganga district HQs, it is also an hour and half’s drive in Bus from the famous temple town Madurai. Padathur is a quiet little hamlet with some very poor people; there are bricked as well as thatched houses. The place is known for a sugar factory- Sakthi Sugar Mills. The village has a small temple at its entrance with a penchant for bells….it is possible that Gods here favor the offerings of bells or is it that people have decided among themselves that Gods are pleased with offering of bells?. There sure must be an interesting story here. As it was mid noon, quite hot and sultry I didn’t really find anyone around (except one who was sleeping under the tree, there were also some shops nearby) to ask these, further I had got this infection -conjunctivitis and my eyes were burning so I didn’t want to spend too much time here. Puduthur is a very unlikely place for any action. Sakthi Sugar Mill is 3kms interior and decided to walk the distance- as public transport are once in an hour, every few minute sugarcane laden truck headed towards the Mill. Later I happen to interact with a farmer who had come to sell his truck load of sugarcane- he treated me to a tea and dry peas ‘because I was the guest he the host’ he said. He refused to be photographed. He mentioned that sugar was sold to mill at the rate of 1050Rs per ton. That’s like one Rupee a Kg!!. Which I thought was less. But he was quite satisfied with the price “a good quality cane will weigh a Kg…one rupee is not much but ok” he clarified. I also congratulated myself for managing a conversation in Tamil, a language I was speaking after quite a long time. The road to the mill was well tarred for an impoverished village, clearly it was meant for the mill. The main occupation of the people seems to be collecting water -the activity people engaged in, even in the hot sun. People had to walk a distance to collect water as you can see from the snaps. Although the land is basically arid and dry, one spot on the way was green and cultivating sugarcane- a crop one knows is a water intensive. This was peculiar and I saw hose supplying enough water and some villagers crowding to collect water. This inequity is not surprising since Tamil Nadu despite its Dravidian upheaval, Justice movements in early last century has remained quite a feudal society and sometimes violently casteist. Tamilians as I see are one of the most hardworking people but mostly exploited. These are the kinds of place where Cocacola-Pepsi can easily tighten their strangle. In recent times there has been attempt by Cocacola-Pepsi to not be seen as exploiter the reason why they outsourced the sucking of ground water to Sakthi mills. There was a huge offer to Sakthi mills. I spend sometime interacting with the lady who runs a tea shop opposite the mill. She has been running it for last 19 years (or was it 29 years?) from the time the mill had started. The property around her has been bought by the mill, they offered her some money to vacate but she refused. One of her conditions was that her son should be given permanent job at the mill. She earns around 1000Rs per month from the shop which she is better than what casual labours are paid in the mill -around 65Rs for men and 55Rs for women, for a day of backbreaking work.

The Cocacola-Pepsi outsourced water sucking for a month or so (as a trial run) at the rate of 75,000litres a day, but by then people became aware of the mischief. The villagers went on dharna and peace marches, most of the people of village participated, in particular the school children. Unlike at Plachimada in Kerala where the simmering resentment among the local people manifested itself as an angry protest only three years after the bottling plant began operations, the agitation here was a in a way pre-emptive one. It was alleged that the unit had plans to dig borewells up to a depth of 3,000 feet (900 metres) on the Vaigai riverbed, besides using the unutilised part of the quantum of water permitted (49 lakh litres a day) specifically for industrial use by the sugar mill. The plans would have affected the water supply to Sivaganga, Manamadurai and Thiruppuvanam towns and about 80 villages covered by the Comprehensive Drinking Water Supply Scheme, the requirements of which are now met by water from the Vaigai riverbed. The scheme covers more than 3.5 lakh people. Exposed to acute drought conditions for several years, the people of the district, particularly in the villages, have had little access to water. Finally the Cocacola-Pepsi had to pack their bag and run. A case of successful campaign by the villagers.

At Gangaikondan in Thirunelveli District (Tamil Nadu):
Thirunelveli is a district located in south of Tamil Nadu state not far from western ghat mountain range. Tamiraparani is the river which flows through the region. Gangaikondan is around half an hour from Thirunelveli District HQ. As I got down from the bus at Gangaikondan the first thing which struck me was the place had a very plane surface with shrubs- very few trees or plants, found only in patches. This is Mars!!. I was told that Coca cola plant was located 4km inside. It is interesting since the Cocacola-Pepsi had made sure that their name is nowhere in the scene and have outsourced the sucking business to very tame sounding South India Bottling Company Ltd (SIBCL, almost a Public sector !! So cute). This funny statement of J. Ramamoorthy, SIBCL's executive director, I came across "We're not Coca-Cola. We're a franchisee. It is totally South Indian owned, and we're bringing in the money. Coca-Cola will merely provide the technology,". Wow. But the people when I asked about where this Company-SIBCL, was located showed ignorance only when I referred coca cola did they recognize!!. Since Cocacola-Pepsi was located in uninhabited surrounding (see in the photos the white spot as you approach that is Coke Pepsi factory!!!) I decided to take an Auto. As you approach the plant you cannot but think it as some alien spaceship!!. I read in a website about how people in this region stumble upon Coke factory, it is quite funny. "I literally stumbled upon the construction when I went looking for my cows," says S. Elosius, a resident of Thuraiyoor. "Here's a company set a kilometer off the road. Even when it's fully constructed, people can't see it," he says. "How can it be that it is the area's largest investment, and I come to know of it only by accident two months after construction has begun?". Local residents and public interest organizations say there is undue secrecy surrounding the project. Dr. R. Murugesan, a professor and district vice president of the Tamil Nadu Science Forum, has strong words about government agencies. "It is not possible to find out anything relevant about the project beyond what little information the company has made available. The Pollution Control Board and the District Collector are against public interest. The Collector claims he knows nothing. But we hear that heavyweights in the ruling party are backing the project," he says (statements taken from the Net). The little information I could gather was that the unit covers an area of around 32 acres inside the SIPCOT complex, spread over an area of 2,500 acres in Gangaikondan. The lease period for companies coming up in the complex is 99 years. SIPCOT can draw upto 45 lakh litres per day . The coke unit alone willget 5 lakh litres everyday (there is however confusion regarding this with contradictory claims). The water will be drawn from theTamiraparani river in Seevalaperi, some 14 km from the site. There is something more to it, as I was going through the web sites a pattern I was quite familiar with emerged. The plant is in a depression in an area fed by the Semboothu springs. Groundwater quality in the area is excellent. Parameters such as chloride and hardness are well within permissible levels. If groundwater is used for bottling, purification costs would be very low. Further there only two other industries located on this industrial estate all 2,000 acres of it are empty otherwise!!!.

The reason why the industrial estate is empty is in the socio-historical nature of the place. These information I found in the Net: Residents of the Manur Panchayat Union, within which Gangaikondan village falls, are predominantly Pallars, a Dalit (former untouchable) caste. The Dalit uprising of the 1990s saw scores settled for centuries-old oppression - primarily with the upper caste Thevars. P. Kirupairaj, a member of Puthiya Thamizhagam - a Dalit political party led by Dr. K. Krishnaswamy - explains the dilemma that Pallar residents face. "The reason why some people support the project is probably because it's been 15 years since SIPCOT started and there have been no takers. Some people feel that this area is being neglected because we're Pallars, and that it is unwise to oppose the first company that comes here. People feel that resistance is futile; that all this is fated and that we don't really have a choice." Kirupairaj however is quick to point out the fallacy in the belief that locals really don't have a choice. "We have won significant victories in our struggle against discrimination. It is known that when we (Pallars) set our minds on something, we persist till we win. We have to make our people aware of the potential benefits and the dangers. Even now, we're not opposing all projects. Only projects like Coca-Cola that pose a threat to our water resources," he says. Quite remarkable these statements considering the socio-economical conditions in which they live.

Lets now look at the events folded since the Cocacola-Pepsi landed here. When Coke first approached Gangaikondan Panchayat President Kamsan for approval, he granted it (don’t be shocked by the name, anti-brahmanical names are very popular in Tamil nadu). He said he had granted permission as the company had all the necessary government approvals. He had not seen the allotted plot or read any of the material that the South India Bottling Company Limited had given him. When the local resistance to the company gathered momentum, Kamsan cancelled the permission given to the South India Bottling Company Limited and also passed a resolution in the panchayat to that effect. Later that day, he passed another resolution giving the South India Bottling Company Limited permission again!!!!. When local reporters grilled him, he alleged that powerful people had threatened him over the telephone. Within few days of this incidence Kamsan died in suspicious circumstances. Most of the people whom I interacted are very clear on who killed Kamsan: ‘’it’s the people at the Coca cola’’. Ofcourse this will never be proved, they have enough money and clout.

On Republic Day this year, gram sabha meetings -- which all villagers attend, as opposed to panchayat meetings, in which just the ward members and the panchayat president are present -- were held all over Tamil Nadu. At the Gangaikondan Gram Sabha meeting, a resolution was passed to cancel the license given to the South India Bottling Company Limited plant. The Manur Block Union -- which includes the Gangaikondan Panchayat -- was convened under heavy police cover. It approved the license given to the plant. Thus, the gram sabha verdict stood nullified. So although majority of people were against coke the Block Union which involves fewer people passed the resolution, quite democratically one must add. The apprehensions of the people did find echo in here too. "We don't know the full details of the project. This is the first big investment in our region. We can't reject the first investment that comes our way. We need the jobs," says A. Rajesh Babu, an elected councilor in Manur Panchayat union (from the Net). A section of local residents, particularly elected members of local governments have extended their support to the company. They argue that the company will bring much-needed jobs and boost the local economy. Company spokespersons go one step further to say that if the company runs into trouble here, other investors will refuse to set up in Gangaikondan. Ironically, the veiled threat of economic "untouchability" or a flight of capitalists comes less than a decade after Gangaikondan and nearby villages witnessed a three-year spate of bloody caste violence in the mid-1990s to end the practice of untouchability. Gangaikondan's fear of becoming "economically untouchable" seems to be one of several issues clouding what may be genuine concerns about the impact of a project that extensively uses local water resources (from the Net).
However in last year or so protests by locals have gathered momentum. Many local residents, political parties and environmentalists have raised concerns that the water-intensive plant will deplete and contaminate groundwater, and draw from Tamiraparani river that cannot fully meet even drinking water and agricultural needs of local communities. Local farmers are angry at even that amount of water being taken away from them. Various political parties as well as a broad range of groups, such as the South Tamilnadu Merchants Association and the Tamilnadu Government Employees Association participated in a rally, indicative of the growing discontent over Coca-Cola's operations in India. Interestingly a delegation from Gangaikondan visited Plachimada in early August 2005.

The argument of those opposing the project, like other places I visited, has to do with the fact that drinking water and agricultural requirements are not currently being met by the water allocations from Tamiraparani River. "Charity begins at home," says S. Sunderaraja Perumal, president of the District Congress Committee Tirunelveli (Urban). "Within the Tirunelveli corporation limit, there are four to five places where people take to the streets because they get no water or insufficient water. They are all Scheduled Caste (Dalit) people, some of whom live within 30 meters of the river. How can you take water for Coca-Cola when you haven't even provided drinking water to your population?" the Congress leader questions (taken from the Net). Perumal says he is not opposed to drawing Tamiraparani water for drinking purposes. "They're taking water for drinking water needs in Kovilpatti, Sankaran Koil. We're not opposed to that. But water cannot be put on sale to a company that uses water as the raw material and sells water as a product. 500,000 liters of water can comfortably take care of the water needs of 5000 people within Tirunelveli town," he says. R. Krishnan, a member of the Communist Party (Marxist) and former member of the state legislature, echoes Perumal's sentiment: "The difference is that this company is treating water as a raw material and selling it. That is wrong. SIPCOT's 4.5 million liter requirement is for the basic needs of industries that will come up in the industrial estate. Earmarking 10 percent of the total water intake for one company that occupies just 31 acres of a 2000-acre industrial estate is ridiculous." (taken from the Net).

While returning I had a cup of tea at a shop opposite the industrial estate. He was busy as a group of people had just ordered tea. What he manage to say was “people are against Coca Cola”. On the bus an elderly man smiled from the crowd. He was around 55 to 60 years and not wearing much cloth, a torn blue banyan, chek mundu and a plastic bag. He had a sturdy short body and a great smile. “ oongalle standill patha chu……(translate) I saw you at the auto rickshaw stand. You wanted to go to coca cola?.....did you go?” he asked. I nodded.
“I used to work at coca cola….”.
“Why you left the job” I asked.
“They gave only 70Rs per day now I work at a place where I get 100Rs and much less work” was his reply.

This is surely a statement on claims of employment generation by Cocacola-Pepsi (we know how bogus it is…meant to divide people). Further what is the cost of natural resources they steal??. While getting down the man informed with an endearing smile that his name was Kasumuthu (money boy literally!) and I could call him for any job I needed him for. I wanted to take his photograph but it was too crowded and secondly I rarely take photos of the people on their face. I am very uncomfortable about it….it feels like objectifying people. While they speak I surreptitiously take out camera and click, almost an apology! They see it and laugh. I guess mobile phone cams are least intrusive, I am thinking of saving some money and buying one! Coming back to Kasumuthu he reminded me of Nanook of North!! (the legendary Robert Flaherty’s classic silent movie of 1922). The only difference being that he lives in surroundings where technological benefits are available unlike Nanook. But his life is still as tough as Nanook of North. Kasumuthu is Nanook of South!! At 60 odd age that is a real wrenching life. Thande ka thadka.


Saturday, March 12, 2011

Face of the devastation


“Corruption is an evil that grows respectable with age” (Voltaire)


Don’t know how many of the readers of this blog will recall that in 1991 there was something called The Bank Securities scam. It was at that time India’s biggest post independence scam the amount of money involved was more than 55000millionR. It was con work initiating from Public sector which passed hundreds of millions of rupees to certain banks. They, in turn, made the money available to selected share brokers, who channelled it into stock exchange. The Ministry of Finance (headed by then Finance Minister Manmohan Singh) and the RBI (which regulates the banking industry) that had inclination of ensuing scam kept studious silence. The intent was to show the boom in shares as public rebuff to critics of liberalisation. But as the scam came into public domain a JPC was set up. It submitted its report in 1993. The report indicted in varying measures Finance Minister Manmohan Singh among others. The report stringently censured the Ministry of Finance for failure to discharge their obligations. The JPC came to a broad conclusion that the scam was basically a deliberate and criminal misuse of public funds with the aim of ‘illegally’ siphoning the funds of banks and PSUs to ‘select stock brokers’. The JPC observed that there were several dimensions of the scandal. The functional aspect covers the banks, brokers, PSUs and various Ministries. Here accountability was “largely absent” and punishment for wrong committed was rare. The second aspect the report expressed grave concern was the failure of supervisory role from “top to bottom”. It added that “what is extremely worrisome” is that no witness who appeared admitted responsibility. The Committee felt distressed at a very damaging approach of transferring responsibility to others. As a follow up the committee recommended initiation of expert investigations to assess the scam wrought damage and apprehend ultimate beneficiary of loot. The Committee pointed out that “unprecedented economic offense” was committed “with the connivance of key persons in political and bureaucratic authority”. Needless to say nothing came out of the investigation!!!.

It is shocking that the present government instead of strengthening institutions (specifically meant to fight corruption) has sought to undermine it, whether CAG or CVC. PM’s position is increasingly becoming untenable. I guess we are quite tired of this. It need be noted that it was because of Supreme Court that CVC was set up in the first place, and it was also SC judgement that sought to put CBI under it during these investigations. Needless to add CBI should be made absolutely independent of executive. Further the much delayed LokPal with SC status be instituted with full judicial power and take any action against public functionaries. Members and the chair person of Lokpal should not be appointed by the government but by the supreme body comprising President of India, Vice president, PM, CJI, leader of opposition.

Long time back (most likely 1998) i happen to attend a seminar on corruption (those days i loved seminars and free food) Mr PV Indiresan- i guess he was from IIT recounted this incident that i happen to scribble down in my notes (well after some free food scribbling few things isn’t a bad idea, it helps in digestion!) “IIT Madras developed a telecommunication switch that used wireless to connect subscribers to the exchange. The system has worked satisfactorily for over a year. The technology was sold to several countries including France and China. Yet not a single order was placed by DOT, they even refused to conduct mandatory trial tests. Later the Chairman of evaluation committee joined a joined a rival American firm along with another member of the committee. A son of another member was also employed at the above mentioned firm” (you can call him GenYnot!!).

Santhanam Committee on Prevention of Corruption (that submitted its report in 1964) has these few lines “...the failure of integrity is not uncommon among Ministers and that some Ministers who have held office during the last 16 years have enriched themselves illegitimately, obtained good jobs for their children and relations through nepotism, and have reaped other advantages inconsistent with any notion of purity in public life...” what is true about politician is also true about most other sections in particular those in Bureaucracy, Corporate, Media, Art etc indeed wherever the competence is subjective you will see this stampede. It’s about Art of Grabbing. With market entering in a big way it’s getting institutionalised, the liberal spin is the home run.

Wednesday, March 02, 2011

Megalomaniac turns into killing machine: The unfolding tragedy in Libya

Sunday, February 27, 2011

Goodbye to Uncle Pai...

Much before video games much much before TV channels there was little cosy world of comics, wonders of Amar Chitra Kathas (there was also Indrajals comics, Diamond comics, Champaks, Twinkle and so on). These comics maintained high artist standards as also source of understanding Indian mythology and history. I do pick up them even now. These I am told have sold more than 100million copies since its inception in 1967. Of course it was much later that i came to know that the man behind these was Anant Pai, popularly known as Uncle Pai.

Post script: incidentally quite unfortunately one of my worst days in life also has to do with Amar Chitra Katha. It so happened that i used to take comics to school for ‘exchange’ with another, also it was fun to read comics surreptitiously while the class was going on. I was in fourth standard and took this new comic to school and someone stole it, next day i was ready for revenge so during ‘games’ period flicked one from the bag of another. I recall it quite clearly that one- it was about Indra and demons. Now it so happened that it belonged to a girl and she was inconsolable rest of the day. Every time i looked at her crying it made me heavy with guilt, that day was probably my worst day. On the way back home i left the comic in school bus. 

Tuesday, February 22, 2011

To the tyrants of the world


Hey you, the unfair tyrants...
You the lovers of the darkness...
You the enemies of life...
You've made fun of innocent people's wounds; and your palm covered with their blood
You kept walking while you were deforming the charm of existence and growing seeds of sadness in their land

Wait, don't let the spring, the clearness of the sky and the shine of the morning light fool you...
Because the darkness, the thunder rumble and the blowing of the wind are coming toward you from the horizon
Beware because there is a fire underneath the ash
Who grows thorns will reap wounds
You've taken off heads of people and the flowers of hope; and watered the cure of the sand with blood and tears until it was drunk
The blood's river will sweep you away and you will be burned by the fiery storm.

(a poem by Tunisian poet Aboul- Qacem El chebbi. You can read more about him in iseeebirds.blogspot.com)

Tuesday, February 15, 2011

chennai

By noon i was at Mamallapuram, also known as Mahabalipuram. A temple town famous for rock temples that were created by Pallava Dynasty who ruled this region around 7th century. Pallavas were mighty rulers and this region used to be an important port. Incidentally Bodhidharma the founder of Chan Buddhism which later became Zen Buddhism in Japan was most likely a Pallava prince.

I was looking for cheaper accommodation; the fellow quoted a higher price. I told him “that price is meant for people who carry dollar, you tell me the Indian price. I am not a rich man”. Well when it comes to money i am very straight in dealing, never be ambiguous on these matters is my policy. The man who was showing some respect shifted his attitude towards me, he turned condescending even mocking “ayo cyclil thaan vandriku”. I kept a straight face, he realised it’s not working. Instead of showing me the top floor rooms which were mostly occupied by foreigners, he took me to ground floor rooms that were dark and damp. Most rooms seemed to be occupied by couples looking for “quickie”, it is likely the fellow charged the room on hourly basis (atleast that’s what i eavesdropped). I absolutely have no problems with these but for godsake why put used condoms under the bedding (it sickens me). I generally carry my bedsheets and pillow cover-and a bottle of dettol, so i am quite equipped to handle these. Also carry mosquito mats, must say mosquitoes of Tamil Nadu are persistent lot that have even worked out the secret of repellents-it seems to have no effect. They were happily buzzing around my ears all through night, adeptly avoiding my attempts to smash them. The more I missed more I ended up slapping myself, once i was even startled out of sleep, for a moment i thought i was at school getting another tight one from the woman who called herself teacher and i staring at her navel all through the ordeal. Mosquitoes have made a nut of atleast one more man; it was reported in the news that a burglar was caught. Now you might think what is new about this? Well our man apart from stealing money and jewellery from the houses had a penchant for mosquito repellent. The fellow stole mosquito mats along with valuables from whichever house he burgled!! That was his undoing it made the job of cops relatively easy as he was linked to all the crimes where repellents went missing, he confessed. I am reminded of a scene from Rajnikant movie ‘Endhiran’ where mosquitoes were asked to apologise, it is no laughing matter.

Since it was happy mix of festive and foreign tourist season there were cultural programs organised, dancers from all over the country performed on the stage that was aesthetically done with rock carving of Arjuna’s penance as back ground. Saw this blond woman who i thought was enjoying the dance and song that she hit her thighs often, soon realised she was trying to keep the mosquitoes away. Geez it’s the mosquitoes again. Went for fish curry rice dinner, the restaurant turned out to be run by malayalee. Few foreigners turned up and explained that they want to see real Indian food, the one that was not served at posh hotel they were staying (it is called “experience”). The malayalee added many yah yahs while he spoke, the foreigners looked at the menu keenly and left without eating. The malayalee fellow was understandably furious and told another of his countryman “evidunna vanada evirekke. Chettagallu”. The other fellow said mockingly maybe they eat pig. When malayalees speak i find it difficult to keep quiet. I informed them that pig is referred to as ham. “Haammo” he laughed loudly, i found him still smiling as i was leaving.

Early next morning much before the sunrise i was at the rock temple, i wanted to take the picture of the temple with rising sun as background, after initial threat of clouds the pictures came out quite well. These temples were redone after it was damaged in cyclone decades back. Later cycled around the place and went to other temples. Many of the carvings are exquisite. The pair of antelopes at Arjuna’s penance impressed Mrs Indira Gandhi so much that it was put on currency notes, they are incredibly beautiful. What makes it charming is the way the creature is rubbing its nose, it is almost alive. The artisans were not only talented but had their sense of humour intact. On the bottom corner a replica of the way Arjuna was doing his penance was recreated except that this time instead of Arjuna it was full bellied cat surrounded by gullible rats. Beware of false saints being the message. The baby elephants are so very delicate. At one corner a saint was giving sermons to headless students, a woman asked the guide what happened to the heads. The fellow said it was ‘destroyed by Muslims’. I was shocked to hear this, the man was giving wrong information, that is not how it is. Atleast from what i know the saint cursed the students for their ignorance and wayward ways which as the story goes exploded their heads. There should be strict training for guides, unauthorised ones shouldn’t be allowed.

All these created on a rock was most amazing, what made it remarkable was the delicate and deft handling needed since if you give one wrong chisel everything could go wrong. Surely these artists spend their lifetime creating these beauties. These sculptors and temples are considered as early form of Dravidian art that was to blossom to its peak during the later Cholas. By noon i was observing Mahishasura mardana. A boy in late teens saw the bull headed human and said it is a matador, his elder brother said in an American accent “no man it’s a greek god”. Their parent laughed and his mother clarified in what sounded like alien Tamil “what da what you are talking these are Hindu gods. This is narasimha avatar da”. Their father was seen hugging and clutching the boys. It seemed like small happy family out for quality time. Happy family all right but their dimwit conversation got hold of me. I said rather loudly staring at the sculpt that it is mahishasura, “Narasimha means nara that is man, simha that is lion and i don’t see any lion here”. I couldn’t control my sarcasm, it came out of irritation, the family went silent and observed me keenly. I looked away and saw a Coucal sneaking across the bush and decided to pursue it.

Next day i was at Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary, there is no direct bus so you have to go to Chengalpetu (takes about an hour) and from there it is another hour, buses are not very frequent. Vedanthangal is the oldest bird sanctuary in the country, steps were taken as early as 1798- with much insistence from local community- and by 1858 it was fully established. Variety of water birds and storks could be seen on trees and bushes dotting the lake, visitors can walk about half a Km stretch, there is a watch tower with a binocular. It is difficult to take photographs though i did see lots of people carrying fancy cameras. It is a popular tourist spot for people from Chennai. Had to wait for the bus for an hour so, the boy at the shop was keen on my camera, and asked me how it works. I thought he was a precocious kid, observant and inquisitive but rarely smiled, he got me concerned that one.

Phase III : Towards Matrimandir

I started from Mamallapuram much before the sunrise, my destination was Marakkanam located at about 70Kms. intention being to cover the distance by noon and anchor for the night. Some search in the Net as also talking to people suggested possibilities of lodges at Marakkanam. Thought of going parallel to ECR along the backwaters but again ended up at a dead end, this time vowed to firmly stick to ECR from now on. Sadras had some colonial Dutch forts that I was keen to visit but somehow missed it and by the time realised it i was at Kalpakkam. Kalpakkam of course is the town that has Nuclear power plant, the fast breeder Nuclear reactor-the one that uses Thorium. Thorium is obtained from Monazite sand something that is found in abundance along the beaches of Kerala, specifically Kollam. A place i have spent some time when i was kid, I recall many decades back while i was walking along the coast of Kollam i had this black coloured sand sticking to my leg, i was told it is monazite sand from which thorium is extracted. This sand is also rich in ilmenite that contains Titanium. Much later while i was doing a project at Titanium Factory i saw these black sand being converted into talcum powder! It was an amazing experience. Incidentally studies along these coastal regions have not been able to establish any definite link between cancer and Monazite.

Track from Mamallapuram to Puducherry is quite popular among bikers and cyclists. A British couple overtook me (could make out from the accent as they wished me), they were in full cycle gear and customary helmet. The cycle must have cost a fortune, they had bags carefully balanced on back carrier. Their pedalling synchronised as if floating like a pair of cranes within moment they were out of my sight. As pleasing the sight maybe i wonder why couldn’t they use treadmill at home! I came across a shallow lake along the sea and saw some fishermen wade the knee deep water spreading their net, stopped to watch their catch. These lines from the poem The Coromandel Fishers by Sarojini Naidu (more about Sarojini Naidu at iseeebirds.blogspot.com)

Rise, brothers, rise! The wakening sky
pray to the morning light.
The wind lies asleep in the arms of the dawn
like a child that has cried all night.
Come, let us gather our nets from the shore
and set our catamarans free,
To capture leaping wealth of the tide
for we are the kings of the sea!

Watching the catch by the fishermen returning from deep sea early morning is something i always do whenever i am around the coast, to see the variety of fishes and trying to identify, indeed i used to spend hours walking around the Chinese fishing nets in Fortkochi, every time they pulled the net i would be the first few to check out the fishes. Must say the catch have dwindled quite significantly in recent times. Since Chinese fishing nets are also a tourist attraction this blogger thinks that the government should extend help to these fishermen to maintain these nets. Indeed Kochi is known for Chinese nets, a gargantuan conception that was introduced by Chinese traveller ZhengHe in fifteenth century. ZhengHe is an interesting character, he was captured by Ming invaders when he was just eleven and made into eunuch, he rose to become the trusted aid of the emperor and was appointed to lead voyages. He is believed to have died along the Malabar Coast.

Along the way i saw atleast five snakes crushed under speeding vehicles, even an owl-that really was a surprise: how did that happen? It got me thinking. My conclusion was that the unfortunate bird might have broken its wing or got immobilised in some way and landed straight on the road most likely at night. Another theory was the bird was already dead while it landed on the road since even with broken wing it would have struggled away. Sight of crows pecking the crushed mass was gruesome. The route was mostly isolated with occasional vehicles, the morning after a major festival is generally rather quieter this has been my experience all these years. And yesterday was Pongal festival, one of the most auspicious day for tamilians. Forgot to mention that just outside Mamallapuram i came across a village that proclaimed itself as “Sweety and Lovely village” in English, must be expressing their disappointment and showing that they aren’t behind compared to a nearby village that was declared as ‘tourist village’ and so foreign tourists were herded to experience the countryside. During pongal there were big celebrations specifically meant for foreigners. Some years back i happen to attend one near Madurai.

Few children waved one boy asked “what is your name?” in English, i found that question puzzling. Why would a kid like to know my name? Then tried to put myself in the kid’s shoes and presto the revelation: he was trying to work out his English (most likely he mistook me as some elite guy who generally converse in english). I would do the same at that age!! Much further I realised i had a puncture, fortunately for me a village was nearby. The repair shop also sold framed pictures of god. There were too many of them in varying size hanging the shack. The old man took his job seriously and with his thin dextrous fingers repaired it in few minutes. It seemed he was affected by hundreds of eyes staring from the frames. I accosted a man “which village was this?” though i was at an audible distance he preferred to shout back “Kuvathur”, ironic since kuv means shout!! Soon i was back on the main road, a gang of bikers sped at a very high speed later followed by thundering of dozen bullet bikes. Quite a sight that one, bullet bikes always remind me of my childhood when during army celebration a must show was acrobats on these bikes by ‘uncles from signals’, I recall a boy whose father was a member of this team, he used to be very proud and boast about his father being more powerful than hanuman! It is only when you are travelling in cycle you realise how fast these vehicles are and how marvellous these inventions. How much convenient they have made our life. The IC engines, the Carnot cycle-the PV and TS diagrams, the adiabatic compressions and isothermal expansions, i had mugged up these so many times before exams without realising their significance. It is now I realise how beautiful these theories are. What amazing conceptions, it is humbling.

I stopped to have many tender coconuts along the way and skipped the breakfast. Kanchipuram district is demarcated from Villipuram by a lake that extend to the ocean, as soon as you cross this lake the terrain changes to shrubby and hotter. It’s a region marked by sparse vegetations and isolated stretches, that it was mid noon added to the discomfort. Soon i realised i am not enjoying the ride and was getting annoyed. People do put themselves in discomforting situation voluntarily, i was thinking of stampede deaths at Shabrimala the day before. But people do it for gratification from god or later gains mine didn’t seem to be falling into any category, that got me concerned. Actions need to have justification is it not? But i guess these never occurred to me, and sometimes create uniquely difficult situations for myself. I have been in such situation many times before! As i was thinking these i saw acres and acres of land stretched on one side of the road that were filled with shallow water, it shimmered in noon sun and could make out few men at work, about half an hour later i was in their vicinity. I approached them on foot. They were making salt, there are few ways to manufacture salt this one was by drying sea water. The man (forgot his name) said that their work was similar to farmers “farmer produce vegetable we produce salt. But there is a difference farmer need rain, for us rain is catastrophe” (translated from Tamil). This one cultivation that needs harsh sun and no rain! Even now what is supposed to be winter the temperature was more than 35*C, in summer i am told it reaches about 50. My god what a tough job. Incidentally India is the third largest producer of salt, bulk of which is from Gujarat. This process of salt production is also referred to as ‘solar salt’ and is being practised from ancient times.

Marakkanam was about five Kms away, unfortunately for me there weren’t any place to stay. There is a government guest house that wasn’t open to public. I decided to cool myself and sat next to a shop and had ‘colour’-sweet carbonated drink that cost 5R. Found myself conversing with a man, as i talked to him i came to know that he too worked in salt pit. His name was Pakri and seemed to have come in terms with his harsh realities. He said he gets 180R per day. For a gruelling days work under the harsh sun this was too paltry. He said he doesn’t have any choices furthermore his expense are also less so manages it quite well. He was fascinated by my camera, and was excited about pictures of birds and could identify most of them in Tamil. That i thought was remarkable. I spent about an hour talking about odd things mostly he was keen to know what i do, he seemed to have an open mind about things. He thought keralaites are adventurous lot-well i have reservation on that. As i was leaving he told me to “travel a lot that is best thing to do”. Suddenly i realised how immensely lucky i was. There weren’t too many eateries around and those present were all closed except a small one next to the highway, hygiene was a concern but what the heck i was famished and could eat a truck. Food was really bad, couldn’t manage and decided to give up. But since people were found enjoying the food and i had already become an oddity i decided to pretend i am eating all the while dropped it to a rather excited dog under the table.

Puducherry was still about 30Kms away. I must mention that much before Marakkanam there is a small town that has moghul fort, i guess it is till here that Moghul rule extended, most likely led by Malik Kafur- a hindu convert. Someone mentioned that next to the fort there was a place to stay, so took a diversion for about three Km and found that it was a well furnished house and they only rent to actors and ‘famous people’ who come for shooting. Since i wasn’t both i cannot have it, anyway there wasn’t any need for them to mention all these the lodging was beyond my budget. But the best part was i found a small rather cozy alley surrounded by trees and shrubs. I sat under a tree for some time, and tried to take pictures of a very shy brown barbet. Further down some children were playing cricket under hot sun and it seems were short of a player, they insisted i should join. Found that extremely amusing, any other day i would have joined but this was getting bit sultry and i had to reach Puducherry or will be stranded on the highway that i realised didn’t have street lights. All through the route saw umpteen number of one room churches, being Sunday the mass was in full swing-louder the better being the motto.

Two mosques stood facing each other and the road went through it, followed by rows of double storey houses that were painted in bright colours. The toll roads exempt cycles, there was a mention of need for creating eco friendly surroundings. But must say highways aren’t traveller friendly at all, they seem meant only for fast moving vehicles. There isn’t any space for stopping; many accidents are reported as people park their vehicle on sideways or if there is a breakdown. I was watching this TV programs on car chase videos the other day (the one where cops chase over speeding or stolen vehicles and then pass it as entertainment for TV audience...it’s a cottage industry in US) and found that there is something called ‘service lane’. If not service lane atleast some space for people to park and stretch themselves. Few centuries back roads were sensitive to the needs of travellers there were trees to provide shade, sheds to relax. With increasing speeds of vehicles- that reduces surroundings as objects, highways have become impersonal. I happen to see many families stop their car to spread out for lunch and so on, wherever they could find space. Car manufactures are smarter lot but don’t know whether they have thought of introducing some design innovation to include converting the rear part into table and so on! It isn’t a funny matter many families use car (the lower end smaller ones) for travelling and picnic. Saw few middle aged men drinking liquor inside the car. I don’t believe these people, why would anyone drink and drive knowing fully well that their chance of survivalability is rather low. I do drink once in a while maybe on Saturdays that too very occasionally- a peg or two, but not very keen on these matter. I think most people don’t like these things in the first instance it’s the company you keep. I have tried all that could be tried...even drugs and found absolutely no fun, it’s quite dumb these things. Though i strongly suggest brandy with pepper in hot water for any ailment. It works miracles, don’t waste your money on doctors. Red wine and kerala Kallu (with kappa meen) top my list.

On the way i saw posters of politicians, i guess Tamil Nadu is warming up to forthcoming elections much earnestly. Mr. Chidambaram’s face in many of the posters made me smile, he looked a cross between amul baby and hema malini with ominously coloured blood red lips and an extra dose of mascara, the effect was hilarious. Don’t know how much will these influence voters!

By about five i was at Puducherry and had cycled almost 100Kms, something didn’t intend to. Auroville is like a home to me, this being tourist season i didn’t go to the ashram cottages expecting it to be full. After a quick bath went out for fish and rice curry. I need to mention here a thing or two about fish curry. For last many years i have been not exactly ‘Following Fish’ but yes Fish curry!! I have become quite an expert. Fried fish in potato gravy of Bengal, a rather pungent tasty mustard paste based fish curry of Orissa, tamarind flavoured succulent fish along Telangana, a simple coconut milk laced Mangalorean fare, spicy Kudumpulli fish curry of Travancore as also Raw mango flavoured ones of Kochi, fish moilees along kottayam, peppery Chettinadu fish curry, tomato fenugreek seeds filled kuzhambu fish curries of Chennai-a kind of thickened rasam, Goan style fish floating in thick tomato gravy.... have tasted all. Only area left is coastal Maharashtra-the Ratnagiri side. Don’t know whether coastal Gujarat is known for fish delicacies. Though i avoid fishes when i am in the interior part of the country nor prefer river fish neither fish fries but yes i do recommend Amritsari fish fry-it’s quite chatpata, as also fish fingers from carts of Pondicherry streets! And yes I also strongly recommend parsi Patra fish-steamed in green chutney, i do try to work it out in my kitchen once in a while. Fish is a serious part of my diet, and do spend a fortune. Though i prefer Pearl spot (karimeen) and Salmon, Sardine and Tuna are cheap and best. When housewives in small towns of Kerala meet they don’t ask how are you they ask what was the fish today!!

Despite strong presence of French for centuries fish curry around Puducherry has not even the trace of the much famous French culinary influence. Clearly people don’t like their food bland there are limits of accepting things and when it comes to food the lines are clear. I was reading “Following Fish” there is a mention on these lines about fish curries around the town of Tuticudi (Tuticorin) that once was a Portuguese colony “Puzzlingly, throughout the Portuguese presence on this stretch of Tamil nadu, its cuisine remained as untouched as its religion stood transformed. I came across no Portuguese influences in my meals in Tuticorin and its neighbouring villages, but, thinking, I’d missed something or simply eaten in all the wrong places, i later sought the wisdom of Jacob Aruni, a food consultant and researcher in Chennai. ‘its true, and it’s a mystery,’ Aruni said. ‘In Goa, for instance, the use of cinnamon, garlic and wine in food caught on from Portuguese. But in the coastal area around Tuticorin, they still use salt, tamarind and coconut more dominantly-the ingredients they were using even before the Portuguese arrived.’”. I think there cannot be two views on this: curry should be spicy, and is meant to blast in your mouth and open up senses. That is food and it better be that way. Europeans can take a break.

Samanth Subramanian-the author of the book, must say hardly a name i would associate with someone writing about fishes! But yes it is a well written book and I strongly suggest. Though lines like “we were not in Kansas anymore” seemed to be meant deliberately for international audience, obviously I cannot be against these but just couldn’t get the joke. I have seen enough western movies to understand “last chance saloon”, thought it was quite hilarious and apt description of toddy shops around Kumrakum, some are in middle of paddy field. There though is a correction needed: Kokum is not same Kudampuli, there is a mistake here. Even reputed recipe books tend to make this mistake, i think it is time to clear this once forever. Kudampuli or Malabar Tamarind also called Gambooge in English (Garcinia cambogia) is a small round orange like fruit that when dried becomes dark. These are used in ayurveda quite extensively. For culinary purpose except for keralites these find favor with Coorgis (where it is referred to as Kachampuli), and nowhere else as of my knowledge. While Kokum (Garcinia Indica) is obtained from a fruit tree endemic to Western Ghats, the outer cover of the fruit when dried is referred to as Kokum. They too have wide medicinal and cosmetic use. They are popular as drinks-a darkish red colored sweetened in water, also used as substitute for tamarind in Konkan –Maharashtra even Gujarat region. I guess it is also used in Rogan Josh from Kashmiri wazwan. Kokum and Kudampuli therefore are NOT same and cannot even substitute each other (ask me i made that mistake once while in delhi where getting Kudampuli was a task). They don’t look similar, the texture smell are world apart. Kokum gives a sour taste and exudes red color when put in water, while Kudampuli is acidic and much bitter gives faint brown color.

Puducherry beach is a pleasing place to be in, towards the south part of the beach the French influence is apparent and posh while the other part buzzing with life. I recommend fish curry rice at Aristos, though the service is bit tardy and chaotic the food-fish curry rice- is tasty and filling. Better would be to get it parceled since the place does get crowded, eating in relaxed ambience is what i prefer but rarely get the opportunity. It is sad to note that Indian Coffee House has closed down and moved to much smaller basement.

Next day i was up and cycling Auroville, the auroville bakery is my favourite, had raisin croissant and mug of hot coffee. Auroville is an agreeable place, started in 1968 as a settlement- a universal town, where men and women of all countries are able to live in peace and progressive harmony, above all creeds, politics and nationalities. Founded by Mirra Alfassa (since referred to as The Mother) as a project of Aurobindo society, the ideals endorsed by Government of India as also UNESCO. Mother gave Auroville its 4-point charter setting forth her vision of Integral living:

1. Auroville belongs to nobody in particular. Auroville belongs to humanity as a whole. But to live in Auroville, one must be the willing servitor of the Divine Consciousness.
2. Auroville will be the place of an unending education, of constant progress, and a youth that never ages.
3. Auroville wants to be the bridge between the past and the future. Taking advantage of all discoveries from without and from within, Auroville will boldly spring towards future realisations.
4. Auroville will be a site of material and spiritual researches for a living embodiment of an actual Human Unity.


Miira Alfassa or Mother (1878-1973) was born in Paris. She came to Puducherry and founded Aurobindo ashram (Aurobindo was an interesting man, a revolutionary who turned into spiritualism...more about him in iseeebirds.blogspot.com), she was immensely respected by people around. I went to Matrimandir (Mother’s Temple), soil from 124 countries are placed in lotus shaped urn here. It is a place meant for mediation. Sat for few minutes. That officially ended my journey. Though it was meant to be from Chennai to Puducherry but somehow became Banyan tree at Theosophical society to Matrimandir at Auroville. It connected Annie Besant and Miira Alfassa, two remarkable European women who chose to settle in India. If I had cycled further towards Tutikudi i wonder what else i would have discovered...maybe some other time.
I leave with these words from The Mother that i read at the reception

A dream
There should be
somewhere on earth
a place which no nation
could claim as its own,
where all human beings
of good will who have
a sincere aspiration,
could live freely as
citizens of the world and
obey one single authority,
that of supreme truth;
a place of peace
concord and harmony...



Saturday, February 12, 2011

witnessing Egyptian history !!

this blogger hopes that the euphoria of common people in Egypt doesn't turn sour as they face realities that follows rising expectations...

Wednesday, February 09, 2011

On expected lines...

The response of despots in Egypt is on expected lines. Egypt is not entirely dictatorial regime, there is a space provided for protest and so on (though one wonders if Army wasn’t neutral how things would be). It is almost a pseudo democracy so in a way a good study since the so called democracies of poorer societies are of same nature. The ruling elite of such societies show certain classic symptoms Mubarak is only an extension of that. First and foremost we have to understand that they will go to any extent to maintain their power, this is consolidated by extending favour to few people (in most cases family and friends) thus a coterie of power is created which owe their existence and therefore their allegiance on the survivability of the system. Thus we have a powerful set of people who will do anything to scuttle any attempt to dilute their power, and therefore vested interest in status quo. Since they cannot be brutal (as it goes against posturing of liberalism- that get them acceptance in western world or shall we say the west prompts them into these characterisation for its own selfish reason. Also referred to as geopolitical compulsions in diplomatic circles, nexus is a better word), they construct premise that show them in positive light. This they take to a level of indispensability “we are the saviours or else you are condemned”. For this to work they have to create a credible adversary (it also helps to take attention from their own sordid dealings) and religious fundamentalists has become an easy alibi in recent times. Indeed it is the elite (the liberal elite, i need stress) who fuel fundamentalist forces these then leads to polarisation of societies and helps consolidation of power. Therefore they divert the attention from issues of common people, as also their own corruption, and make it a fight against extremists, which of course they are happy to lead. The problem is when genie refuse to go back to the bottle once the use is over (i am reminded of Binderanwale here).

Mubarak regime is attempting the same, they have propped up Islamists, wherein the presence of extreme element in the uprising was rather negligible. Mubarak regime for its selfish reason is giving credibility to these elements, in affect the aspirations of common people that have united them against this despot is sought to be hijacked. It fits into the pattern quite easily. Now this is where the West will get uncomfortable (and so will many Egyptian) and will end up supporting Mubarak-who has already declared that without him the country will collapse. It is clear he is preparing for that eventuality. It is in the nature of elite scoundrels in pseudo democracies to be least bothered about people, and wouldn’t hesitate to take the society to dangerous precipice if that is what serves their purpose.

It is very sad the way things are spiralling, I think the Army will have to move in. It is no longer about Mubarak moving out. He will have to stand trial. This blogger requests international agencies UN or ICJ or whoever to get the banks declare Mubarak and families ill-gotten wealth. Actions should be initiated against banks for helping hoard these wealth. The countries (read Switzerland) that have policies that support these despots to loot money and deposit in their banks should be isolated from international community. People of Switzerland should be ashamed of themselves for living on the profit of ill-gotten money.

Meanwhile in some other part of the world
The worst never goes…are Italians such dumb fools. Amazing

Sunday, February 06, 2011

its Moonlight Romance


its Indian Derby Day Dude!!!
if u aint at derby u aint nowhere!!!

Thursday, February 03, 2011

Egypt cannot fail

This blogger, like most people around the world, is quite concerned by the deteriorating situation in Egypt. Egypt is an important nation and shouldn’t be pushed into anarchy. It’s in the nature of self serving leaders to cling on to power at the expense of people, Mubarak is no different. The fellow is playing his dirty tricks, too much power can give illusion of invincibility. It makes one see people as pawns and their aspirations space for manipulations for power. Thanks to modern technology people have been empowered and are in a position to understand and respond in a way not thought before. Information is power and people have access to it. Despots and dictators are going to have tough time.

Hosni Mubarak should immediately resign; that the stability depends on his presence is an insult on Egyptian people. There is a system in place and interim government could take power and initiate changes. If the transition is not peaceful then there is a very likelihood of polarizing society-a situation that favors the vested interests. People want freedom and dignity it is as simple as that. Mubarak should get the message and clear out at the earliest. Instead of unleashing his cronies and killing innocent people, he will have to come in terms with realities of situation.

Tuesday, February 01, 2011

Jasmine revolution spreads...so shall it be...so shall it will be!!


...though the term 'Jasmine' revolution is disputed by some, but a revolution to throw away despots across the world need no name. A revolution is a revolution whatever name you choose. Ben Ali in dustbin, time up for Mubarak, is Gaddaffi next?