Tuesday, December 06, 2005

sikkim beckons.....

Last month I was in sikkim, a beautiful state tucked on the foothills of khangchen-dzonga (kanchenjunga). Gangtok is a quaint little town with extremely pleasant people and aesthetic buildings, although the recent real estate development has been quite haphazard and chaotic. But it remains a beautiful place, a land of wild orchids and red panda.



This is Gangtok town. Not many people. The reason why offseason is the best time to travel. Offseason in Indian context apart from inclement weather is when children don’t have holidays.

The town gives a magnificent glimpse of snow-capped Mt. Kanchenjunga. I was reading travel writer Jan Morris, she writes “…it is enough to say that to see kanchenjunga…in the cool of the morning, is one of the noblest experience of travel. It is a kind of vision. It has moved generations of pilgrims to mysticism, and even more to overwriting….”. Yes overwriting!!!. So I guess I leave it there!!!.



This is inside Tibetlogy center. Where they also have a beautiful museum and library as also an art exhibition hall.
This next one is a monastry..




The place is also about steaming Momos and Thungpas. I traveled to Tsomgo Lake (or changu lake), which is at an altitude of 12000 ft. It’s a small beautiful lake considered sacred. It’s an incredible sight. It was also snowing lightly but all that was spoiled as I experienced breathing problem and almost collapsed (rhinoplasty is needed, i guess) . Women running the shops gave garlic, which stabilized me and I returned without going to Nathula pass- the china border. It was a scary experience!!. But I did manage to take some snaps!!!. see this..
People in sikkim treat visitors with reverence. First I thought it was a coincidence or a stray incident. The way they hand or take things, even the shopkeepers!!. It is as much a posture of offering-with extended right hand and the left supporting it and a slight bow. Quite a divine gesture makes one feel special. Although in the beginning I found it extremely embarrassing and later about myself since I use left hand for most purpose (except maybe writing). This gesture also from Bengalis and Marwaris, who are in substantial numbers.

People in sikkim are predominantly Buddhists as also Hindus and Christians. The majority communities here are Lepchas, Bhutias and Nepalese. There are large number of Nepalese with subgroups like magars, tamang, newars…and so on. There is also a substantial population of Tibetans. It’s rare to find dull faces here.

Its always ready-with-smile bright faces. These school children who study in that school down there were quite excited on getting photographed. It's an incredible setting for a school with huge playground sorrounded by mountains.



Interacting with people here was almost always a pleasant experience. Even the language they speak is more of energy spurts like Japanese or Chinese, one see in movies. Lots of twing twang hoo haas. But Nepalese you can almost catch. Well almost!!.
The history of sikkim is however filled with oppression and tyranny. Of feudal lords, clashes and forced labor. King Tashi Namgyal who was and still widely respected initiated lots of reforms. But people here in the interiors are still very poor and the feudal past has left its imprints. Perennial Dreams is a collection of Poems by Pavan Kumar Chamling translated from Nepali, I bought from Gangtok. These lines….

When frightening problems torment humanity
like the blazing sun
tormenting human flesh.
Then I want to lift the earh
and fling it to the sky.
For the sky is immaculate
spotless and serene….. (In Reality)

Ah mysticism. As Chekov once observed that there is more love for humanity in basic needs than any amount of spiritual breast-beating.

Ourselves like the nights
are false and vicious,
solitary nights weave
only rosy dreams,
endless stark realities
boggle and baffle us….. (Realities within us)


The ferocity of the words in these poems were the reason why I spend some time going into the history of this region.
Its rather surprising that not many people know much about Mr. Pavan Kumar Chamling in India except that he is the Chief Minister of Sikkim for almost a decade.
Well for most Indians North East is …well North East. Mr. Chamling is a colossal figure here. He started a literary magazine “Nirman” in 1977 from a backward village of sikkim were he was born. Later on he started a publishing unit Nirman Prakashan, which has published works of many new and established writers and poets. Mr. Chamling himself has authored many books in English, Hindi and Nepali. All this while being actively involved in politics since his youth. The story is incredible when one learns that he has done his schooling upto matriculation only, after which evidently he self-taught!!!.
As a common man there are few people whom I would like to see as President of India one would definetly be Mr. Pavan Kumar Chamling.



This is Che Depalaneura reporting from Gangtok!!!
I guess our man need to dump that sweater of his.....been using it for last seven winters!!.