Cycling in the monsoon III

Payyannur is probably Kerala’s best kept secret.  With some scenic backwaters ensconced by mountains...where else can you have that combination? It’s a treat to the eyes. There are some ancient temples that are subtle expressions of early Indian architecture; it merges into the nature and surrounding in quaintest of ways. The ‘kavu’ that is a piece of biodiversity frozen since time immemorial and the old trees with huge sturdy trunk that knots into itself and vanishes into the termite mounds, its low hanging branches seems to caress the mud plastered walls of aesthetically done temple. Plumeria scented air spreads faintly seducing everything around, it is as if time is standstill. The periphery of nothingness. The silence is punctuated by breeze brushing the leaves and sweet calls of magpie robin. This is place of worship and there truly is god. It’s a pleasing place to be in, it’s very likely that cradle of Indian culture must have been places like these.

There is an early morning ferry (at 6.30 sharp) from Payyannur jetty, and it’s one of the best possible ways to begin the day. They even stop for breakfast!! After about two hours through some charming view i got down at Pathrandil, i was told there is proper road that will negotiate me to Nileshwaram and then to Kasargod. I very distinctly recall some of the paths from my earlier cycling, Kanhagad, Bekal and Kasargod. From Kasargod to Mangalore is one straight highway. Cycling on the highway is something i detest. Last time around i missed coming under a truck by few inches. It brushed against me and i fell the other way. It probably was the closest i came to dying on road, i was so bloody shaken that i stood there for about half an hour. Roads are now better but truckers are the same!! I thought of taking beach road from Manjeshwar but was warned by people that the road is really bad, so decided to continue with the highway.... 

Mangalore to Udupi is another straight route. I am getting tired of national highways (NH), was aware that beach route exists so awaited for the opportune moment to shift. Tried to take the beach route after Surathkal but came to know that it doesn’t connect. After Mulki again tried but was informed  that the route maybe fragmented. Finally i took the same route i had taken many years back, that is, from Kapu beach. From Kapu beach to Malpe is arguably the most exciting cycling track. It’s about 20km mostly cemented narrow road that runs close to the ocean on one side, while the last 10km is flanked by a river. The gap sometimes is only about 50m. From the finish point a ferry takes you to Malpe beach. 

I had stayed in Malpe for two months in the year 2001, i had trunk of books that i brought from Delhi and intend to finish it, ofcourse staying in the beach during the monsoon was reason enough. There is an isolated pristine beach on the other side of the lagoon that no one is aware of, while the typical malpe beach swarms with tourist and pedlars this one still remains a secret. This is where i spent about two months, many many hours... Long walks on the pristine sand stretch, in the heavy rain in the isolated beach, the best was beach in the bright moonlight particularly when there is a light drizzle (it’s rare to get it all together, but you could be lucky sometimes!!). Magical moments.

From Malpe through the beach then it is back to NH after about 10km or so, from Sasthan turn left and back to wonderful beach road, must add in last decade or so the roads have improved quite dramatically, it really is fun to cycle these tracks. When i am on NH i switch off and start thinking of read or something interesting, while on the beach road it’s time to open up the senses. The verdant field was being prepared for paddy sowing, there were peafowls around, against the green they look enchanting. It’s brilliant, i could cycle all day long, indeed one doesn’t even know one is doing something physical. Kodi beach was the target. After 8km or so i saw an ancient looking restaurant, it should be half a century old. A very old man (he had thread around his body...that makes him a Brahmin, i guess, in the mediocre traditional Indian conception of things) was the waiter, the cook, the cleaner...to cut it short he ran it alone. The menu had idlis, must say sambar has taken for the worse. It had started deteriorating after Kasargod, while the idlis improved (keralites surely don’t know how to make idlis...the effort is surely embarrassing). You do get Kotte idlis too in Udupi -that is baked in palm leaf. My reference of sambar is south TN specifically Tirunalvelli. There was something else on the menu that i hadn’t tasted before, since i wasn’t having breakfast i asked him for taste. It was avalika (pounded rice) with bujia and sugar. Rudimentary but the combination created a flavour that wasn’t particularly tasty but unique. I asked the man about the route, and so began my ordeal. Apparently the man seemed to be some kind of connoisseur on ‘telling people about routes’. He carefully explained, i got the gist and made a mental note, but he thought it is necessary to elaborate, and took the table for the imaginary map and start crisscrossing his hand rapidly from one corner to other, and then he proceeded to suggest some alternatives which he detailed. He then ventured to compare the alternatives. His eyes had white around the pupil, i am thinking he has cataract.  An elderly woman sat in the corner eating idlis, she was toothless, she smiled, displaying the content in the mouth. Aha idlis don’t need teeth!! From Triveni you turn right to take to the NH and to Kundapura. Next morning i took a bus to visit Kollur, the site of famous Mookambika temple. Right in the middle of thick jungle there is a temple that seems to have so much religious significance for keralites is amazing. It’s a mini Kerala around here! It was established by Shankaracharya, but then he was involved in many other temples right upto Himalayas, how this temple became important to Hindus of Kerala is something i am not able to understand. One thing though is very sure and that is Shakaracharya was an amazing man. He walked all the way to Himalayas from Kerala through thick jungles 2000 years back is almost unbelievable. His intention to have discussion on Advaita makes it charming. These kinds of examples in the history (indeed around the world) are quite rare.  And yes Advaita is quite a significant philosophy. Unfortunate though is that Shankaracharya’s efforts were used by brahmanical ritualists to consolidate themselves and their miserable world. It was also quite detrimental to burgeoning Buddhism as also led to ferocious emergence of casteist elements and deterioration of Hinduism. It was beginning of dying of great ideas. Next thousand years saw, with few and rare exception, Indian society slipping into putrid pits. The mediocrity that it bred is the root of the contemporary reality. That thrives on ethics that is made subjective to the fancy of few, the long winding talks/theories that is intent to manipulate. This is the traditional framework that this society has inherited.

It is ironical that ritualistic morass took hold since Shankaracharya was against mindless rituals. Bhajja govindam (rendered amazingly by MS) was statement on this, and i believe it is so true for organised religions too -the mindless following of scriptures. Organised religion can be dehumanising, it segregates and divides. Freedom of religious expression needn’t be a reason to support contexts that give misery to common people. Clearly these tend to communalise societies; the Mangalore coast is an example. Lack of thinking and blind faith has led to such serious impasse that violence seems natural option, indeed it is justified through ‘holy books’. How crude can people get? I feel amazingly sad when I see little girls (as young 5years) packed in black outfit, thankfully its not full face cover. Already the society suffers from patriarchy related severity and the organised religion (read vicious form of Islam, fortunately kerala doesn’t really suffer much from it) has made it worse. Passing through these patches makes me very sad.    

I rarely go inside the temples it is where things go wrong. How are threaded types (the so called Brahmins) given the traditional right to run the place? The sight itself is sickening, this isn’t democracy. It seems another instance of freedom of religious expression at the expense of common people.  Secularism practised by policy makers in Indian context seems to suffer from blackmail backlash threats.     

  

Kollur also has a wildlife sanctuary and a butterfly park. I happen to see a butterfly that looked like a dry leaf!! They have done it aesthetically. It was fun to walk in the place and get the glimpse of deep forest...i will surely be coming here this winter.

Kundapura to Murudeshwara is about cruising the Highway, but thankfully the scenes were pleasant and i passed through estuaries lined with mangrove forest. Maravanathe beach is an amazing stretch, it is suggested that you continue with the beach and enter a coastal village before joining the highway. Then it’s all about the NH, after Byndur the route becomes isolated with sparse population, there is a climb to hill that can be exhausting, it seems to be bauxite mining region. Bhatkal then Murudeshwara –famous for huge Shiva statue. I find huge structures repulsive but must say that Shiva’s statue though vulgarly gigantic is done quite delicately. I though loved the Sungod riding into the horizon, it is childishly charming. Being a religious tourist attraction the place had its own crowd despite rainy season, so you have families trying variuos fun on the beach while another conducted ritual for departed. Happiness and sadness flit the beach, it crests in big waves and then it lay waste. Water is still water and the soul remains the soul. 

Murudeshwara to Honavar is quite a tough ride, there are ups and down. You may think downs are easy but that is where the danger is. The brakes of cycles tend to go easy during rain and may not work properly. A steep down ride is perilous, thankfully i learned my lesson before any untoward, must add i was lucky, any vehicles around and i could have hurt myself quite badly. Honavar onwards the ride is pleasant with water logged paddy fields spreading the horizon. It had started to rain. O the charm of it. Before Kumta (Alvekodi) i turned left and took the beach route towards Kadle. I got a ‘dingy’ and was dropped onto to the other side, after a km or so the route is isolated with not a soul around, i guess i am passing a jungle with cicadas calls filling the air. It is a very tough ride, as the climb goes on and on. There are crushed snakes on the road, i bend down to examine one. Now that’s a viper boy!! I took the route to Om beach but eventually came back to the Gokarna city. In Udupi one should try out Cocum drink while in Gokarna Ragi water is quite tasty.  The picture of OM beach from the mountain top, it is om in shape…well almost!

Canara College Mangalore

Prof Satish Bhat the Principal is one keen person, he has the initiative and zeal. I though am left wondering about the students, since the students i am addressing belong to the Eco club much was expected. There were ofcourse many bright ones, and they were impressive. For me it has been: if you like a subject or idea then put in your best or otherwise leave. I never could understand half baked things, it’s better to go for a walk or sleep...well in India most students don’t get to choose what they like to study and so end up in jobs/career that they may not be suited, and so ‘doing things for sake of it’ starts to define the psyche (unless of course one is lucky enough or takes risk...in middle class scenario it narrows down further). It comes out in collective attitude as the mediocrity. Most people tend to do things just for the sake of it rather than passion or excellence. This is something that is ingrained from childhood. Canara College is a well known college in Mangalore, it was an interesting experience to be here. Must mention here about Dr Joshi (HOD) who was quite enthusiastic, and went out of the way to make the event a success.

Poorna Prajna College (PPC) Udupi

Since the Principal (Prof Sadashiva Rao) had some urgent meeting he was out of station, the task was assigned to Prof Kishore Bhat, a rather gentle and amiable man. Ms. Vijaylaksmi (HOD) did all the arrangement. Must add the college is quite cultured and they show immense care while dealing with outsider (‘attithi’ as they put it). I was even handed a memento! These kinds of concerns are getting quite rare. After brief introduction, there were few lines of prayer (was it from Upanishad?). Overall it was a great experience. The college has a relatively large campus with magnificent trees. 

• The Eco Club is very active 
• They have tagged the trees in the campus 
• The college authorities have promised to take up Rainwater harvesting  

Bhandarkar College Kundapura

I have to mention that the authorities of the college have been disappointing, quite callous in their approach. The talk was postponed as the Principal (who thinks it’s a favour to pick up the phone!!) puts it “there was a mob situation’. I wasted a day. Next day too it took some time to gather the students, though they were told to be members of Eco club but when asked not many responded. Except few bright ones they weren’t showing much enthusiasm, it took some effort to make them interact. The college does have a long legacy and they have a prominent and thriving Botanical garden. Now which college in this country can claim to have a botanical garden of its own? Impressive indeed.

The living dead children of Kasargod

 

Ideally one shouldn’t use terms like ‘living dead’ but Sohail has been reduced to vegetable state, almost all his life. He is a victim of Endosulfan and is completely paralysed; he does understand questions and is able to mumble answers. His face contorts with his body as he speaks, it takes lots of effort. He generally likes to watch cricket and when i asked him about his favourite player. He was unambiguous and came with instant answer “Sachin” (but then little does Sohail know that his ‘hero’ after getting into Rajya Sabha seems to have given credibility to nonsense like “Coca Cola”. Should RS member be allowed to come in commercial ads? Ideally the person concerned should be circumspect. But then we live in a crude world). His mother Sohra says that he also likes to listen to news. He doesn’t know how to read or write, and spends all his time lying on the sofa. It’s was deeply poignant moment to see the child stretched helplessly on a sheet that had bright red flowers. He burst into laughter sometimes; i found it quite hard to face this reality and thought of leaving. There are many children like Sohail who have fallen victim to Endosulfan, that incidentally was banned in India only recently after much protest (of course policy makers concern seems to be GDP).  Indeed this dangerous chemical is being actively promoted by profit seeking pesticide companies.

It was in the year 1998 that one Ms. Leela Kumariamma filed a case against Plantation Corporation of Kerala (PCK)–a Public sector undertaking, she had filed the case restraining the use of helicopter for spraying pesticide that is happening for 24 years.  It is this spraying that is believed to have contaminated the surrounding. It is while the trial was proceeding that the people first came to know about Endosulfan. Amazing is it not we don’t we even know what goes into our food, our water, our land, our blood...while the 24x7 market media news is reduced to entertainment. I met NP Mohd. Kunju -the Panchayat President of Bovikunnu, who also happens to be the Chairperson of the group that was created to protest against the use Endosulfan. Punjiri (little smile) was formed in 1997, their fourteen years of struggle is having affect only recently. There is now a complete ban on Endosulfan, but the issue of compensation to the victims is still in limbo. 187 victims have been identified and 1lakh from CM’s relief fund is promised, this was raised to 5 lakh by Human Right Commission, half of the amount will be paid by the Plantation Corporation. The mute question though is how is that the Company that produces such dangerous chemicals go scot free? 

I was reading that at the Stockholm Convention on Persistent Organic Pollutants of 2011, when an international consensus arose for the global ban of the pesticide, India stood against this move owing to pressure from the endosulfan manufacturing companies!! Understandably there were protests. Later, on a petition filed in the Supreme Court of India, the production, storage, sale and use of the pesticide was banned.                  

cycling in the monsoon II

From Chavakkad to Ponnani is a straight stretch of about 20km with not much traffic. From Ponnani there is a ’junker’ to the other side of lagoon, Tripangode to Tanur is probably the best route to cycle. The road runs parallel to the ocean, it reminded me of certain patches along Chennai-Pondicherry. I stopped for Kattan (black tea), puttu kadala is very definitely the best breakfast in the world. For few minutes I stared at the steaming puttu, the aroma wafting from it was heavenly. A blend of grounded baked rice, shredded coconut and everything-good-in-life, invaded my senses. I vacillated, it was trying moment. I skip breakfast while cycling, and go for walnuts. The man at the hotel (it was a small thatched thing) asked whether i cycle in the night too. I replied “athrekku vatta ayitilla” (haven’t become that mad yet!!). They found it funny. While leaving the man insisted that the tea is on him and refused to take money. It rained occasionally; sometimes it was deluge, mostly drizzle. The monsoon really hasn’t picked up. Is it the El Nino? A boy shouted “saipe my brother drinking water. Help!!”. Sure i know, that’s a dialogue from a popular Malayalam movie of the past. Very soon i was in Tanur beach, further up is Kadalundi. As i was crossing the Kadalundi bridge i could see the railway line. About a decade back there was a major train accident here, i recall that since a day before the accident i had travelled on the same train. It gave me shiver that one. Further up i took the beach route, and was waiting for Junker (ferry) to Beypore. As i asked for the ticket in Malayalam, the man at the counter stared at me and said rather derisively “jnan vicharichu ningal videshi ananu” (i thought you are a foreigner). I shot back “vicharichikondu irrikunnunthu arogiyathinu nallatha” (to keep thinking is good for health!!). Malayali sarcasm is quite biting and i know how to deal with it. Beypore to Calicut is one straight route.

Calicut to Thalassery was the target for the day. The beach road from Calicut is another of those quaint stretches that make cycling an enchanting experience. It had started to rain quite heavily, a thunderstorm. I had plans for Kappad but cancelled. Kappad is the beach where Vasco De Gama landed in 1498. Payyoli was another town on the route that i zipped through, it happens to be the home town of legendary athlete PT Usha. She has a training academy that is promoting new talents in track and field. I saw a signpost of Sargaalaya-Arts and craft village, and decided to drop in. I had great experience at Dakshinacharitra on ECR, so was keen. They have created a space for artisans to make and sell their wares. It was a remarkable effort; i spend an hour roaming the place. Some of the art forms are unique (like for instance miniature ships, the original size of which Beypore was famous for). I strongly recommend people passing through this route to drop in and spend some time. It is worth it, although one may add the floor is quite slippery and very dangerous to walk. Kunjali Marikkar museum is also nearby (Marikkar was the title given by the king for warriors exceptional in naval warfare). Right after Vadakara the route becomes rather uneven with ups and down that had started to take away the fun out of cycling, this continued till Thalaserry. As also the roads do get dangerously narrow. Private buses are nightmare, they don’t seem to have much concern for human life. Mahe is part of Puducherry, and so the liquor is sold cheap (that seem to be only differentiating factor), every other shop is a drinking hole, every other person a drunkard. The place sickens me. Why these kinds of nonsense exist? I think Mahe is one disgusting piece of land (apologies to writer Mukundan, i recall meeting him once long time back in Delhi), it stinks and is repulsive in every sense. Though one must congratulate them for renovating Tagore garden, the view of Mayyazhi river merging into the ocean in the setting sun is a breath taking. 

Hoardings are another nightmare that one experiences, huge and repulsive looking it takes away the charm of scenic surrounding. The one on Gold/jewellery really is nauseating. Keralites really are sick society in many ways, sometimes i think this society is in some collective hallucination. It’s a kind of cultural dystopia that now comes with renewed vigour through free market. I saw the posters of the movie ‘Diamond Necklace’, some vaguely familiar faces...mine mine am I not becoming old!! The title ‘Diamond necklace’ though reminds me of a short story of the same title by one of my favourite French writer Maupassant (did you know that Maupassant as a teenager saved the life of poet Swinburne from drowning!!).       

  

Déjà vu at Thalaserry: about eleven years back I cycled from Udupi to Thalaserry, i had originally planned to Kochi but gave up in between as I decided to stay in Thalaserry for few weeks for Ayurvedic massage. Thalaserry is a quaint little town that I used to go for long walks, and did lots of cycling in the interiors. This is a place with a very long history; indeed it is quite remarkable in many ways. Known for three C’s that is Circus, Cakes and Cricket...all these are traced to this small town, not to forget Herman Gundert.

The route from Thalaserry to Kannur is hassle free, but must add Kannur is a messy little town. Indian Coffee still serves its signature beetroot masala dosha!! 

At St. Joseph College Devagiri Calicut

Established in 1952 St. Joseph College Devagiri is one of the prominent colleges in Calicut. I met the members of nature club. Dr. Shiby Thomas, though from Dept of Economics, is actively involved in Nature related issues and is the coordinator. He introduced me to the Nature Club team (in the pic, from right) –Vishal Jose (President), Geethu Antony (Secretary), members Varadha Vasudevan, Linet Roslin Antony (Linet incidentally is named after a bird that is found in Europe/North Africa!!) and Athira Balaraj. They are quite an active group. The college is already a Plastic free zone, and also has Rainwater harvesting. They are concerned about reducing the noise pollution. We discussed on the ways it could be worked out. Vehicle free zone within the college premise was suggested. Solid waste management was something the college has taken seriously. They even had training programme for locals. In a unique initiative they have created a herbal garden. Tagging the trees with names and their importance was something they had taken up. We spend about half an hour discussing things...   

At Brennan college Thalaserry

Brennan college is one of the reputed colleges in the state, with a history of more than 100 years. A campus full of trees it even has land designated as forest (Shantivanam). They also have a herbal garden, that is well maintained. Rainwater harvesting is done, and the college is a plastic free zone. Mr. Anil Kumar was the reference person but since he was out of station Mr. Aslam got the act together. Students of Botony and Zoology gathered in a hall, Dr. Radha who happens to be the head of the Dept was rather magnanimous, i was introduced as ‘famous naturalist’, which i refuted at the earliest possible opportunity. It was an enthusiastic bunch of students who explained to me about activities they conducted as part of Nature club. Regular visits to forests are arranged. They do go out for documentation. I showed them the PPT that was prepared by WWF on green economy. A quiz was conducted and pens were distributed to those who gave right answers. It’s surprising that not many people are aware about the beetles!!

While we were having cup of tea the discussion quite naturally veered to politics. It need be added here that most senior contemporary politicians of the state are alumni of Brennan. Aslam said we need to save our nature alright but i think there is an immediate need to safeguard culture. “There is acute need for culture that promotes tolerance, and a mindset that rise beyond narrow divisions of religion and caste. We need a culture that promotes civilised ways of human discourse”. Indeed Kerala does have a long tradition of political violence, but in recent times its gone personal. This violent politics is bad for future, he rued. Mr Aslam is a young lecturer, and i was quite impressed by his views.

At HSS Kannur

The Government Higher Secondary School at Kannur is quite an old school, they have kept buckets inside to collect leaking rainwater!!. Mr Madhusudan was the contact person who arranged everything. Head Mistress Ms. Shobana gave the welcome speech. Children were very excited, though PPT was meant for much older students, i tried to include other things and try make it relevant. Most children belong to fishing community, and must add their knowledge on nature was above average. The school has rain water harvesting. The children are aware of the dangers of plastics. They have eco club that involves in tree plantation, forest trip...so on. Quiz was conducted and pens distributed.        

A day with two remarkable people

Meet the man who created a forest!!

We have heard of people planting trees, we have heard of people maintaining gardens but have you ever heard of someone creating a forest?!!

 Take a diversion from Koyilandi to Naduvannur (about half an hour in bus) and then to Thiruvode (3km) you will reach house of retd. school principal Mr Padmanabhan (popularly Padmanabhan mashe).  He has done the incredible that too on his own, not any support from any agencies nor even his children. It started in late 1950s when he was doing his graduation, he explains, there was talk of Kuttiyad hydroelectric project, he and his friends decided to trek the forest. The experience of walking through the forest stayed with him. Later he inherited little piece of land, a somewhat barren land of 3acres. What began in 1980s is now a little thriving forest that has amazing variety of flora and fauna. He pointed to me many plants and trees that are becoming rare, and its medicinal property. He indeed is a repository of immense knowledge. There are about 45 species of trees alone. I even saw butterflies that i haven’t seen before, not even in Western Ghats. What was charming was his enthusiasm. His concern though is his forest; he doesn’t really know what will become of it after him. What is also shocking is that despite these efforts there has been virtually no support from the authorities.

This effort is something very unique and rare. We must salute the dedication and hard work of a single man who created a thriving forest from nowhere. It should be part of school curriculum.

(You can reach Padmnabhan mashe at epnsajina1939@gmail.com)    

        

 Meet the enigmatic Yashoda amma

Not many people know that Thalaserry is the birth place of circus in India.While I was in Thalaserry about a decade back (i was cycling from Udupi that year) I met an elderly lady who used to do dare devil bike riding in circus. Those days there weren’t blogs, I wrote about her in my dairy. I did search for her but just couldn’t locate. Instead I came across Yashoda amma. A remarkable lady, charming as ever at the ripe age of 85. She joined the circus because the legendary Keeleri Kunhikannan knew her father and so he after much apprehension agreed. She explained that it was her insistence that did it. She wanted to see the world. Very soon she was popular “I was very stylish and good looking”, she had reasons to be proud. She found her way into magazines in Russia and so on (in early 1940s she was getting popular in Karachi!!). Her eyes glitter as she relates her heydays “I even got anonymous letters” “some even threatened to kidnap me!!”. Her daughter in law who stood nearby made faces when she related these but Yashodamma was not going to be distracted or dissuaded. She explained that she did trapeze, double, even triple...even ‘elephant bottle’, wherein she was carried by elephant on the trunk. She travelled the world, and lived in luxury. Those were the best days of circus industry. She was pampered and she loved it. Later she married one of the colleague, and so “now i am here where i am”, pointing to the squalor life she was reduced to, she shrugged. “Now I am fighting disease”, she has got quite ill recently. I thought she still was remarkably agile, with excitable expressive face (that believe me was flirting!!...how much i wanted to hug her!). She even went to meet her daughter alone on a train to Mumbai two years back, explained her daughter in law, who couldn’t help not having admiration for the old lady. It came reluctantly but it definitely was around the corner all the while. Yashoda amma dabbed her face instinctively and looked extremely excited when I said I wanted to take her picture, there was underlying charm in the way she dealt. She was like a bird trapped in the cage of her body. The bird that has soared high and from her little perch has seen all that the world had to offer. Maybe the little bird wants to fly more, trapped in the emaciated cage, it may break free one of these days. There is a beatific smile that plays on her lips, it seems to leap into a world beyond...god bless the remarkable lady.

An afternoon with beautiful Fabi Basheer

Vaikom Mohammad Basheer needs no introduction. He is a favourite writer of mine. Though my Malayalam is rather sketchy, i have read most of his work. Must say the charm is in original Malayalam. Basheer is an influential Indian writer, and i see Basheer in the same mould as Franz Kafka and Saadat Hasan Munto. His Fathumma’s goat is part of collective psyche as much Samsa is of Kafka and Toba Tek Singh of Munto.There is so much compassion in his work. The lines in his fictions are deceptively simple but striking in its impact.  Furthermore he was not much into nuances of the language and kept it simple and colloquial, that made his characters real and endearing. This quote from him reads “I can live without literature. In the matter of living life nobody can defeat me”. Writing was just an extension of life, that he didn’t give exaggerated importance. And that precisely is the reason he happens to be one of the greatest. His fictions are sensitive portrayal of common people and their reality. Contrast that with arrogance of contemporary writers (particularly the one writing in English) and their exclusive claim on “freedom of expression”. Just being a writer it seems they are superior to normal mortals or that they believe they have insight on truth that other ordinary people most surely lack. It is this haughtiness and lack of compassion/empathy that breeds this clique of “culture torchbearers”. Shallow creativity that thrive on exaggeration and controversy. It is not without reason i use terms like neo-brahminism, it’s an Indian reality. We live in amazingly mediocre times, and the so called art/artists that market churns out creates props that seek to safeguard great ideals. The mediocres manipulate these for their very narrow end. Thus the farce.

I had the good fortune to visit Basheer’s home the other day at Beypore (a coastal town of historical significance). The family has kept a room as a museum, which i was told is visited by lots of people. Fabi Basheer, wife of Basheer, turned out to be a gregarious lady and it was fun to interact with her. She spoke and spoke, everything from where she did her schooling to how she got married and learned cooking fish curry!! She spoke Basheer and Fathuma’s goat (about the attractive statue that has come up in Calicut city, of the goat devouring a book). She reads atleast five newspaper a day!!.She also mentioned about her desire to learn cycling when she was child and how it was prevented. She talked about the need for muslim woman to learn and stand on their own feet. She though has no regrets in life. I took a picture with her, she looked at it and said that she doesn’t look all that good. I assured her she looks very beautiful, she blushed. It was an honour to meet the lovely lady.  

cycling in the monsoon...

“Ecstasy is inland soul going to beach” is what Emily Dickenson said, this blogger would add “ecstasy is cycling along the beach in the monsoons!!”…O the feel of rain drenching the body, and soul. . It’s heaven. Nothing can top it. It is one of the precious experiences in life.

I would like to thank Els here for wonderful inspiration on cycling. She and her gang cycle across Europe regularly. She was kind enough to mail me valuable inputs on cycling.  You may visit her at http://bikesandbees.blogspot.in/. Thanks to her I am going pro!!!

At Cherai beach

(This is a personal blog, all comments are for my own pleasure and that of the readers. I will be writing all that i fancy. Since the cycling trip is official i will be presenting an official report devoid of anything personal, once it is over...thank you) 
 
...and so we gathered at Cherai beach on the afternoon of June 5^th, as part of World Environment Day, the event arranged by CMFRI and WWF (of course Mahindra Holidays). There were about hundred odd people. We were given free umbrellas, and were asked to keep it open and gather around an Octopus that was made from plastic waste. After some brief speeches and oath taking on protection of environment (some celebrities were present) i was introduced. I gave a brief speech, though i wanted speak in Malayalam but as is the case when things get too formal i tend to forget Malayalam and shift to English. I hated speaking in English, regretted it, maybe i should have practised. Very soon i was flagged off by Director of WWF Renjan Mathew. It was largely symbolic because i wasn’t cycling that afternoon, i had postponed it to early morning next day. I asked Mathew whether i should come back after taking a symbolic round. He said firmly “don’t come back. You have left!!”. Symbolism had a rather brief and deft end.

Next morning by sharp 5.30 I was ready. I shifted to beach route and was cruising parallel to the sea. Ah the ecstasy of it. The morning monsoon breeze had a nip in it that stabbed deep in. The ocean roared in a primal anger and thrashed its fury on to the beach. It was the monsoon sea that frothed its white and lashed out at anyone who questioned her primacy. She was as fierce as death could be. Mother Nature in its grandeur was a terrifying reality. Any transgression was dealt with destruction, indeed it was reported in the media the next day. We are so insignificant here, indeed humans don’t count. The humbling realisation was accentuated by the sheer beauty of it that was intoxicating. Common grass yellow butterflies flit around my cycle wheel in gay abandon, coaculs calls reverberated from the nearby bush and the coconut fronds jingled in the wind. The sky turned grey to black and exploded, it poured as never before. It’s my conception of heaven, and i am right in it.  
          

Did you know that ancient Greeks referred butterflies as Psyche that is “human soul”? Butterflies are little souls that roam the earth, and i absolutely agree with that. Elderly Christian ladies are charming to look at. The subtle cream colour embroidered shawl on starch white sari gives them an alluring dignity. They look at you with so much contentment that ‘peace be with you’ needn’t be spoken, it spreads. From Munambum i took a ferry to Azhikod. Rehman a fisherman was my company. He gave me route details that came quite handy. Apparently further down there was block on the road (at Nattika), so i may have to shift to highway. Azhikod to Palapety beach was a quaint path, there weren’t many vehicle (except occasional bike or so) on the route for about 30 odd Km. The charm of it. From Triprayar I took a wrong turn and was heading to Thrissur wherein i was supposed to be going Chavakad. Very soon i found myself in Mullaserry. I was stopped by a man, he insisted that he wanted to speak to me. I seemed to have no choice. He turned out to be a nice fellow named Hassan, and he congratulated me on my effort, “we need motivated people like you” he said.  But i need to disagree with him here. There is a construct (that surely has a market driven context) that insists on human need to be ‘motivated’ ‘goal oriented’...so on. It’s been spread with much viciousness, coated as it is in motivational talks (Abdul Kalam is one of them...whom lots of youngsters find inspiration in). They make market friendly robots out of otherwise humans with immense possibilities. They shut down the world and make individuals incapable of seeing holistic nature of life. They narrow and mutilate... 
  

 Let those who read this blog know that i am never motivated (not that it matters but i have my say) and i really never had any goals. And i surely exist, and exist in all its charm. We need to have a paradigm change and entirely fresh perspective. Career is only qualitative addition to life; it should not be defining point that takes away the beauty of experience.  And i insist on younger generation to reject this nonsense. Never ever have any goals. Life is not a goal. There is no goal in life. Observe, watch, understand, listen...and you will see something spectacular emerging. And that will submerge everything you know into insignificance. It is also important to create a framework of excellence, always try to expose yourself to best in human endeavor (in Indian context it does become quite difficult, nevertheless strive)
       

  Chavakad doesn’t really have any proper lodging facility, furthermore enticing temple town Guruvayur was nearby. So i anchored for the day at Guruvayur...

Talk at St. Joseph Training College Pavarathy

I was supposed to have a talk at St. Joseph Training College at Pavarathy, which is about five km from Guruvayur. The talk was to start at 2.00pm but i was an hour early, and so went to the century old church. There wasn’t anyone inside, such a charming place that i could sit for a long time. I do love inside of churches, and St. Francis church at Fortkochi is probably the place that i have spent more time than anywhere else. It’s almost a home to me. The quaintness and calmness of the surrounding seeps deep into one’s being. I love the ambience of temple towns, and Guruvayur tops my list. Benaras, Rishkesh (not Haridwar), Madurai (in winter), Pushkar... are also my favourite places. There is an ancient charm to these places that i can spend hours and hours sitting and soaking the surrounding. Of course Ajmer Dargah has always been my favourite place, as also Jama Masjid region of old Delhi. The hustle and bustle, egalitarian nature of things is charming. That brings me to Bodhgaya (as also Dharamshala) another of those charming places, it’s my favourite place. The Buddhist monks are amiable set of people. The reverberation of chants has something primal about it. It quietens and slows everything around, without realising one tends to move towards stillness. 

Dr.K.M. Santhakumari is the Principal, an affable person she has a ready smile. She took some time to understand my intention, once she got the full significance she was went out of the way to arrange things. Father Varghese, who dropped in mentioned about vegetable garden and so on. A hall was arranged there were some 70 odd students mostly girls. I presented the PPT provided to me by the WWF, and interjected often to make it interesting. Quiz on environment was conducted and pens were distributed to everyone who gave right answer. Overall it went on well. The only hitch is i need to make myself comfortable in Malayalam. Malayalam has always been too personal a language to me that i found awkward using in formal situation.

The following emerged out of the talk with the students...

•   It was agreed by the students that they need to activate the nature club and meet quite often
•   The students and management agreed to declare the college premise plastic free zone. The Principal has promised to bring out the declaration at the earliest.
•   Rain water harvesting is something the college is pursuing quite seriously. 

At TB Sahib School Edakazhiyur Chavakkad

Next day morning i had an appointment at TB Sahib School Edakazhiyur that is about 7km from Guruvayur on the way to Ponnani. I was given a grand reception with school children lining up with bouquet, some escorted me on their cycle into the school premise. There was brief introductory speech by the Principal Ms Raina Kochunni. Mr James NJ is the teacher who is actively involved in environment issues. The school has done tremendously well on this front. It was heartening experience. I am so very honoured to be in this school. They have done extremely well. There have formed Habitat Haritha Sena, they have involved themselves in Olive Ridley Turtle conservation, mangrove regeneration, tree plantation and so on. I met the manager Mr Siddique. Later I conducted quiz on environment and distributed pen as appreciation. I was asked to plant a guava tree in the premise. The management promised to have regular meetings of nature club.  I suggested that students should be involved in documentation of species in the school premise and surrounding as part of awareness creation