From Chavakkad to Ponnani is a
straight stretch of about 20km with not much traffic. From Ponnani there is a ’junker’
to the other side of lagoon, Tripangode to Tanur is probably the best route to
cycle. The road runs parallel to the ocean, it reminded me of certain patches
along Chennai-Pondicherry. I stopped for Kattan (black tea), puttu kadala is
very definitely the best breakfast in the world. For few minutes I stared at
the steaming puttu, the aroma wafting from it was heavenly. A blend of grounded
baked rice, shredded coconut and everything-good-in-life, invaded my senses. I vacillated,
it was trying moment. I skip breakfast while cycling, and go for walnuts. The
man at the hotel (it was a small thatched thing) asked whether i cycle in the
night too. I replied “athrekku vatta ayitilla” (haven’t become that mad yet!!).
They found it funny. While leaving the man insisted that the tea is on him and
refused to take money. It rained occasionally; sometimes it was deluge, mostly
drizzle. The monsoon really hasn’t picked up. Is it the El Nino? A boy shouted
“saipe my brother drinking water. Help!!”. Sure i know, that’s a dialogue from
a popular Malayalam movie of the past. Very soon i was in Tanur beach, further
up is Kadalundi. As i was crossing the Kadalundi bridge i could see the railway
line. About a decade back there was a major train accident here, i recall that
since a day before the accident i had travelled on the same train. It gave me
shiver that one. Further up i took the beach route, and was waiting for Junker
(ferry) to Beypore. As i asked for the ticket in Malayalam, the man at the
counter stared at me and said rather derisively “jnan vicharichu ningal videshi
ananu” (i thought you are a foreigner). I shot back “vicharichikondu irrikunnunthu
arogiyathinu nallatha” (to keep thinking is good for health!!). Malayali
sarcasm is quite biting and i know how to deal with it. Beypore to Calicut is one
straight route.
Calicut to Thalassery was the
target for the day. The beach road from Calicut is another of those quaint
stretches that make cycling an enchanting experience. It had started to rain
quite heavily, a thunderstorm. I had plans for Kappad but cancelled. Kappad is
the beach where Vasco De Gama landed in 1498. Payyoli was another town on the route that i zipped through, it happens
to be the home town of legendary athlete PT Usha. She has a training academy
that is promoting new talents in track and field. I saw a signpost of
Sargaalaya-Arts and craft village, and decided to drop in. I had great
experience at Dakshinacharitra on ECR, so was keen. They have created a space
for artisans to make and sell their wares. It was a remarkable effort; i spend
an hour roaming the place. Some of the art forms are unique (like for instance
miniature ships, the original size of which Beypore was famous for). I strongly
recommend people passing through this route to drop in and spend some time. It
is worth it, although one may add the floor is quite slippery and very
dangerous to walk. Kunjali Marikkar museum is also nearby (Marikkar was the
title given by the king for warriors exceptional in naval warfare). Right after
Vadakara the route becomes rather uneven with ups and down that had started to
take away the fun out of cycling, this continued till Thalaserry. As also the
roads do get dangerously narrow. Private buses are nightmare, they don’t seem
to have much concern for human life. Mahe is part of Puducherry, and so the
liquor is sold cheap (that seem to be only differentiating factor), every other
shop is a drinking hole, every other person a drunkard. The place sickens me.
Why these kinds of nonsense exist? I think Mahe is one disgusting piece of land
(apologies to writer Mukundan, i recall meeting him once long time back in Delhi),
it stinks and is repulsive in every sense. Though one must congratulate them
for renovating Tagore garden, the view of Mayyazhi river merging into the ocean
in the setting sun is a breath taking.
experience at Dakshinacharitra on ECR, so was keen. They have created a space
for artisans to make and sell their wares. It was a remarkable effort; i spend
an hour roaming the place. Some of the art forms are unique (like for instance
miniature ships, the original size of which Beypore was famous for). I strongly
recommend people passing through this route to drop in and spend some time. It
is worth it, although one may add the floor is quite slippery and very
dangerous to walk. Kunjali Marikkar museum is also nearby (Marikkar was the
title given by the king for warriors exceptional in naval warfare). Right after
Vadakara the route becomes rather uneven with ups and down that had started to
take away the fun out of cycling, this continued till Thalaserry. As also the
roads do get dangerously narrow. Private buses are nightmare, they don’t seem
to have much concern for human life. Mahe is part of Puducherry, and so the
liquor is sold cheap (that seem to be only differentiating factor), every other
shop is a drinking hole, every other person a drunkard. The place sickens me.
Why these kinds of nonsense exist? I think Mahe is one disgusting piece of land
(apologies to writer Mukundan, i recall meeting him once long time back in Delhi),
it stinks and is repulsive in every sense. Though one must congratulate them
for renovating Tagore garden, the view of Mayyazhi river merging into the ocean
in the setting sun is a breath taking.
Hoardings are another nightmare
that one experiences, huge and repulsive looking it takes away the charm of
scenic surrounding. The one on Gold/jewellery really is nauseating. Keralites
really are sick society in many ways, sometimes i think this society is in some collective hallucination. It’s a kind of cultural dystopia that now comes
with renewed vigour through free
market. I saw the posters of the movie ‘Diamond Necklace’, some vaguely familiar
faces...mine mine am I not becoming old!! The title ‘Diamond necklace’ though
reminds me of a short story of the same title by one of my favourite French writer
Maupassant (did you know that Maupassant as a teenager saved the life of poet
Swinburne from drowning!!).
Déjà vu
at Thalaserry:
about eleven years back I cycled from Udupi to Thalaserry, i had originally
planned to Kochi but gave up in between as I decided to stay in Thalaserry for
few weeks for Ayurvedic massage. Thalaserry is a quaint little town that I used
to go for long walks, and did lots of cycling in the interiors. This is a place
with a very long history; indeed it is quite remarkable in many ways. Known for
three C’s that is Circus, Cakes and Cricket...all these are traced to this
small town, not to forget Herman Gundert.
The route from Thalaserry to Kannur
is hassle free, but must add Kannur is a messy little town. Indian Coffee still
serves its signature beetroot masala dosha!!
At St.
Joseph College Devagiri Calicut
Established in 1952 St. Joseph
College Devagiri is one of the prominent colleges in Calicut. I met the members
of nature club. Dr. Shiby Thomas, though from Dept of Economics, is actively
involved in Nature related issues and is the coordinator. He introduced me to
the Nature Club team (in the pic, from right) –Vishal Jose (President), Geethu
Antony (Secretary), members Varadha Vasudevan, Linet Roslin Antony (Linet incidentally
is named after a bird that is found in Europe/North Africa!!) and Athira
Balaraj. They are quite an active group. The college is already a Plastic free
zone, and also has Rainwater harvesting. They are concerned about reducing the
noise pollution. We discussed on the ways it could be worked out. Vehicle free
zone within the college premise was suggested. Solid waste management was
something the college has taken seriously. They even had training programme for
locals. In a unique initiative they have created a herbal garden. Tagging the
trees with names and their importance was something they had taken up. We spend
about half an hour discussing things...
At
Brennan college Thalaserry
Brennan college is one of the reputed
colleges in the state, with a history of more than 100 years. A campus full of
trees it even has land designated as forest (Shantivanam). They also have a
herbal garden, that is well maintained. Rainwater harvesting is done, and the
college is a plastic free zone. Mr. Anil Kumar was the reference person but
since he was out of station Mr. Aslam got the act together. Students of Botony
and Zoology gathered in a hall, Dr. Radha who happens to be the head of the
Dept was rather magnanimous, i was introduced as ‘famous naturalist’, which i
refuted at the earliest possible opportunity. It was an enthusiastic bunch of
students who explained to me about activities they conducted as part of Nature
club. Regular visits to forests are arranged. They do go out for documentation.
I showed them the PPT that was prepared by WWF on green economy. A quiz was
conducted and pens were distributed to those who gave right answers. It’s surprising
that not many people are aware about the beetles!!
While we were having cup of tea
the discussion quite naturally veered 
to politics. It need be added here that most
senior contemporary politicians of the state are alumni of Brennan. Aslam said
we need to save our nature alright but i think there is an immediate need to
safeguard culture. “There is acute need for culture that promotes tolerance,
and a mindset that rise beyond narrow divisions of religion and caste. We need
a culture that promotes civilised ways of human discourse”. Indeed Kerala does
have a long tradition of political violence, but in recent times its gone
personal. This violent politics is bad for future, he rued. Mr Aslam is a young
lecturer, and i was quite impressed by his views.
to politics. It need be added here that most
senior contemporary politicians of the state are alumni of Brennan. Aslam said
we need to save our nature alright but i think there is an immediate need to
safeguard culture. “There is acute need for culture that promotes tolerance,
and a mindset that rise beyond narrow divisions of religion and caste. We need
a culture that promotes civilised ways of human discourse”. Indeed Kerala does
have a long tradition of political violence, but in recent times its gone
personal. This violent politics is bad for future, he rued. Mr Aslam is a young
lecturer, and i was quite impressed by his views.
At HSS
Kannur
The Government Higher Secondary
School at Kannur is quite an old school, they have kept buckets inside to
collect leaking rainwater!!. Mr Madhusudan was the contact person who arranged
everything. Head Mistress Ms. Shobana gave the welcome speech. Children were
very excited, though PPT was meant for much older students, i tried to include
other things and try make it relevant. Most children belong to fishing
community, and must add their knowledge on nature was above average. The school
has rain water harvesting. The children are aware of the dangers of plastics.
They have eco club that involves in tree plantation, forest trip...so on. Quiz
was conducted and pens distributed. 
