Payyannur is probably Kerala’s best kept
secret. With some scenic backwaters
ensconced by mountains...where else can you have that combination? It’s a treat
to the eyes. There are some ancient temples that are subtle expressions of
early Indian architecture; it merges into the nature and surrounding in
quaintest of ways. The ‘kavu’ that is a piece of biodiversity frozen since time
immemorial and the old trees with huge sturdy trunk that knots into itself and
vanishes into the termite mounds, its low hanging branches seems to caress the
mud plastered walls of aesthetically done temple. Plumeria scented air spreads
faintly seducing everything around, it is as if time is standstill. The
periphery of nothingness. The silence is punctuated by breeze brushing the
leaves and sweet calls of magpie robin. This is place of worship and there
truly is god. It’s a pleasing place to be in, it’s very likely that cradle of
Indian culture must have been places like these.
There is an early morning ferry (at 6.30
sharp) from Payyannur jetty, and it’s one of the best possible ways to begin
the day. They even stop for breakfast!! After about two hours through some
charming view i got down at Pathrandil, i was told there is proper road that
will negotiate me to Nileshwaram and then to Kasargod. I very distinctly recall
some of the paths from my earlier cycling, Kanhagad, Bekal and Kasargod. From
Kasargod to Mangalore is one straight highway. Cycling on the highway is
something i detest. Last time around i missed coming under a truck by few
inches. It brushed against me and i fell the other way. It probably was the
closest i came to dying on road, i was so bloody shaken that i stood there for
about half an hour. Roads are now better but truckers are the same!! I thought
of taking beach road from Manjeshwar but was warned by people that the road is
really bad, so decided to continue with the highway....
Mangalore to Udupi is another straight
route. I am getting tired of national highways (NH), was aware that beach route
exists so awaited for the opportune moment to shift. Tried to take the beach
route after Surathkal but came to know that it doesn’t connect. After Mulki
again tried but was informed that the
route maybe fragmented. Finally i took the same route i had taken many years
back, that is, from Kapu beach. From Kapu beach to Malpe is arguably the most
exciting cycling track. It’s about 20km mostly cemented narrow road that runs
close to the ocean on one side, while the last 10km is flanked by a river. The
gap sometimes is only about 50m. From the finish point a ferry takes you to
Malpe beach.
I had stayed in Malpe for two months in
the year 2001, i had trunk of books that i brought from Delhi
I had stayed in Malpe for two months in
the year 2001, i had trunk of books that i brought from
From Malpe through the beach then it is
back to NH after about 10km or so, from Sasthan turn left and back to wonderful
beach road, must add in last decade or so the roads have improved quite
dramatically, it really is fun to cycle these tracks. When i am on NH i switch
off and start thinking of read or something interesting, while on the beach
road it’s time to open up the senses. The verdant field was being prepared for
paddy sowing, there were peafowls around, against the green they look
enchanting. It’s brilliant, i could cycle all day long, indeed one doesn’t even
know one is doing something physical. Kodi beach was the target. After 8km or
so i saw an ancient looking restaurant, it should be half a century old. A very
old man (he had thread around his body...that makes him a Brahmin, i guess, in
the mediocre traditional Indian conception of things) was the waiter, the cook,
the cleaner...to cut it short he ran it alone. The menu had idlis, must say
sambar has taken for the worse. It had started deteriorating after Kasargod,
while the idlis improved (keralites surely don’t know how to make idlis...the
effort is surely embarrassing). You do get Kotte idlis too in Udupi -that is
baked in palm leaf. My reference of sambar is south TN specifically
Tirunalvelli. There was something else on the menu that i hadn’t tasted before,
since i wasn’t having breakfast i asked him for taste. It was avalika (pounded
rice) with bujia and sugar. Rudimentary but the combination created a flavour
that wasn’t particularly tasty but unique. I asked the man about the route, and
so began my ordeal. Apparently the man seemed to be some kind of connoisseur on
‘telling people about routes’. He carefully explained, i got the gist and made
a mental note, but he thought it is necessary to elaborate, and took the table
for the imaginary map and start crisscrossing his hand rapidly from one corner
to other, and then he proceeded to suggest some alternatives which he detailed.
He then ventured to compare the alternatives. His eyes had white around the
pupil, i am thinking he has cataract. An
elderly woman sat in the corner eating idlis, she was toothless, she smiled, displaying
the content in the mouth. Aha idlis don’t need teeth!! From Triveni you turn
right to take to the NH and to Kundapura. Next morning i took a bus to visit
Kollur, the site of famous Mookambika temple. Right in the middle of thick
jungle there is a temple that seems to have so much religious significance for
keralites is amazing. It’s a mini Kerala around here! It was established by
Shankaracharya, but then he was involved in many other temples right upto Himalayas , how this temple became important to Hindus of
Kerala is something i am not able to understand. One thing though is very sure
and that is Shakaracharya was an amazing man. He walked all the way to Himalayas from Kerala through thick jungles 2000 years
back is almost unbelievable. His intention to have discussion on Advaita makes
it charming. These kinds of examples in the history (indeed around the world)
are quite rare. And yes Advaita is quite
a significant philosophy. Unfortunate though is that Shankaracharya’s efforts
were used by brahmanical ritualists to consolidate themselves and their
miserable world. It was also quite detrimental to burgeoning Buddhism as also
led to ferocious emergence of casteist elements and deterioration of Hinduism.
It was beginning of dying of great ideas. Next thousand years saw, with few and
rare exception, Indian society slipping into putrid pits. The mediocrity that
it bred is the root of the contemporary reality. That thrives on ethics that is
made subjective to the fancy of few, the long winding talks/theories that is
intent to manipulate. This is the traditional framework that this society has
inherited.
It is ironical that ritualistic morass
took hold since Shankaracharya was against mindless rituals. Bhajja govindam
(rendered amazingly by MS) was statement on this, and i believe it is so true
for organised religions too -the mindless following of scriptures. Organised
religion can be dehumanising, it segregates and divides. Freedom of religious expression
needn’t be a reason to support contexts that give misery to common people. Clearly
these tend to communalise societies; the Mangalore coast is an example. Lack of
thinking and blind faith has led to such serious impasse that violence seems
natural option, indeed it is justified through ‘holy books’. How crude can
people get? I feel amazingly sad when I see little girls (as young 5years) packed
in black outfit, thankfully its not full face cover. Already the society suffers
from patriarchy related severity and the organised religion (read vicious form
of Islam, fortunately kerala doesn’t really suffer much from it) has made it
worse. Passing through these patches makes me very sad.
I rarely go inside the temples it is
where things go wrong. How are threaded types (the so called Brahmins) given
the traditional right to run the place? The sight itself is sickening, this isn’t
democracy. It seems another instance of freedom of religious expression at the expense
of common people. Secularism practised
by policy makers in Indian context seems to suffer from blackmail backlash
threats.
Kundapura to Murudeshwara is about
cruising the Highway, but thankfully the scenes were pleasant and i passed through
estuaries lined with mangrove forest. Maravanathe beach is an amazing stretch,
it is suggested that you continue with the beach and enter a coastal village
before joining the highway. Then it’s all about the NH, after Byndur the route
becomes isolated with sparse population, there is a climb to hill that can be
exhausting, it seems to be bauxite mining region. Bhatkal then Murudeshwara
–famous for huge Shiva statue. I find huge structures repulsive but must say
that Shiva’s statue though vulgarly gigantic is done quite delicately. I though
loved the Sungod riding into the horizon, it is childishly charming. Being a
religious tourist attraction the place had its own crowd despite rainy season,
so you have families trying variuos fun on the beach while another conducted
ritual for departed. Happiness and sadness flit the beach, it crests in big
waves and then it lay waste. Water is still water and the soul remains the
soul. 
Murudeshwara to Honavar is quite a tough
ride, there are ups and down. You may think downs are easy but that is where
the danger is. The brakes of cycles tend to go easy during rain and may not
work properly. A steep down ride is perilous, thankfully i learned my lesson
before any untoward, must add i was lucky, any vehicles around and i could have
hurt myself quite badly. Honavar onwards the ride is pleasant with water logged
paddy fields spreading the horizon. It had started to rain. O the charm of it.
Before Kumta (Alvekodi) i turned left and took the beach route towards Kadle. I
got a ‘dingy’ and was dropped onto to the other side, after a km or so the
route is isolated with not a soul around, i guess i am passing a jungle with
cicadas calls filling the air. It is a very tough ride, as the climb goes on
and on. There are crushed snakes on the road, i bend down to examine one. Now
that’s a viper boy!! I took the route to 
Prof Satish Bhat the Principal is one
keen person, he has the initiative and zeal. I though am left wondering about
the students, since the students i am addressing belong to the Eco club much
was expected. There were ofcourse many bright ones, and they were impressive.
For me it has been: if you like a subject or idea then put in your best or
otherwise leave. I never could understand half baked things, it’s better to go
for a walk or sleep...well in India most students don’t get to choose what they
like to study and so end up in jobs/career that they may not be suited, and so
‘doing things for sake of it’ starts to define the psyche (unless of course one
is lucky enough or takes risk...in middle class scenario it narrows down
further). It comes out in collective attitude as the mediocrity. Most people
tend to do things just for the sake of it rather than passion or excellence.
This is something that is ingrained from childhood. 
Since the Principal (Prof Sadashiva Rao)
had some urgent meeting he was out of station, the task was assigned to Prof
Kishore Bhat, a rather gentle and amiable man. Ms. Vijaylaksmi (HOD) did all
the arrangement. Must add the college is quite cultured and they show immense
care while dealing with outsider (‘attithi’ as they put it). I was even handed
a memento! These kinds of concerns are getting quite rare. After brief
introduction, there were few lines of prayer (was it from Upanishad?). Overall
it was a great experience. The college has a relatively large campus with
magnificent trees. - The Eco Club is very active
- They have tagged the trees in the campus
- The college authorities have promised to take up Rainwater harvesting
Bhandarkar College Kundapura
I have to mention that the authorities of
the college have been disappointing, quite callous in their approach. The talk
was postponed as the Principal (who thinks it’s a favour to pick up the
phone!!) puts it “there was a mob situation’. I wasted a day. Next day too it
took some time to gather the students, though they were told to be members of
Eco club but when asked not many responded. Except few bright ones they weren’t
showing much enthusiasm, it took some effort to make them interact. The college
does have a long legacy and they have a prominent and thriving Botanical
garden. Now which college in this country can claim to have a botanical garden
of its own? Impressive indeed.
