Face of the devastation

“Corruption is an evil that grows respectable with age” (Voltaire)

Don’t know how many of the readers of this blog will recall that in 1991 there was something called The Bank Securities scam. It was at that time India’s biggest post independence scam the amount of money involved was more than 55000millionR. It was con work initiating from Public sector which passed hundreds of millions of rupees to certain banks. They, in turn, made the money available to selected share brokers, who channelled it into stock exchange. The Ministry of Finance (headed by then Finance Minister Manmohan Singh) and the RBI (which regulates the banking industry) that had inclination of ensuing scam kept studious silence. The intent was to show the boom in shares as public rebuff to critics of liberalisation. But as the scam came into public domain a JPC was set up. It submitted its report in 1993. The report indicted in varying measures Finance Minister Manmohan Singh among others. The report stringently censured the Ministry of Finance for failure to discharge their obligations. The JPC came to a broad conclusion that the scam was basically a deliberate and criminal misuse of public funds with the aim of ‘illegally’ siphoning the funds of banks and PSUs to ‘select stock brokers’. The JPC observed that there were several dimensions of the scandal. The functional aspect covers the banks, brokers, PSUs and various Ministries. Here accountability was “largely absent” and punishment for wrong committed was rare. The second aspect the report expressed grave concern was the failure of supervisory role from “top to bottom”. It added that “what is extremely worrisome” is that no witness who appeared admitted responsibility. The Committee felt distressed at a very damaging approach of transferring responsibility to others. As a follow up the committee recommended initiation of expert investigations to assess the scam wrought damage and apprehend ultimate beneficiary of loot. The Committee pointed out that “unprecedented economic offense” was committed “with the connivance of key persons in political and bureaucratic authority”. Needless to say nothing came out of the investigation!!!.

It is shocking that the present government instead of strengthening institutions (specifically meant to fight corruption) has sought to undermine it, whether CAG or CVC. PM’s position is increasingly becoming untenable. I guess we are quite tired of this. It need be noted that it was because of Supreme Court that CVC was set up in the first place, and it was also SC judgement that sought to put CBI under it during these investigations. Needless to add CBI should be made absolutely independent of executive. Further the much delayed LokPal with SC status be instituted with full judicial power and take any action against public functionaries. Members and the chair person of Lokpal should not be appointed by the government but by the supreme body comprising President of India, Vice president, PM, CJI, leader of opposition.

Long time back (most likely 1998) i happen to attend a seminar on corruption (those days i loved seminars and free food) Mr PV Indiresan- i guess he was from IIT recounted this incident that i happen to scribble down in my notes (well after some free food scribbling few things isn’t a bad idea, it helps in digestion!) “IIT Madras developed a telecommunication switch that used wireless to connect subscribers to the exchange. The system has worked satisfactorily for over a year. The technology was sold to several countries including France and China. Yet not a single order was placed by DOT, they even refused to conduct mandatory trial tests. Later the Chairman of evaluation committee joined a joined a rival American firm along with another member of the committee. A son of another member was also employed at the above mentioned firm” (you can call him GenYnot!!).

Santhanam Committee on Prevention of Corruption (that submitted its report in 1964) has these few lines “...the failure of integrity is not uncommon among Ministers and that some Ministers who have held office during the last 16 years have enriched themselves illegitimately, obtained good jobs for their children and relations through nepotism, and have reaped other advantages inconsistent with any notion of purity in public life...” what is true about politician is also true about most other sections in particular those in Bureaucracy, Corporate, Media, Art etc indeed wherever the competence is subjective you will see this stampede. It’s about Art of Grabbing. With market entering in a big way it’s getting institutionalised, the liberal spin is the home run.

Megalomaniac turns into killing machine: The unfolding tragedy in Libya

Goodbye to Uncle Pai...

Much before video games much much before TV channels there was little cosy world of comics, wonders of Amar Chitra Kathas (there was also Indrajals comics, Diamond comics, Champaks, Twinkle and so on). These comics maintained high artist standards as also source of understanding Indian mythology and history. I do pick up them even now. These I am told have sold more than 100million copies since its inception in 1967. Of course it was much later that i came to know that the man behind these was Anant Pai, popularly known as Uncle Pai.

Post script: incidentally quite unfortunately one of my worst days in life also has to do with Amar Chitra Katha. It so happened that i used to take comics to school for ‘exchange’ with another, also it was fun to read comics surreptitiously while the class was going on. I was in fourth standard and took this new comic to school and someone stole it, next day i was ready for revenge so during ‘games’ period flicked one from the bag of another. I recall it quite clearly that one- it was about Indra and demons. Now it so happened that it belonged to a girl and she was inconsolable rest of the day. Every time i looked at her crying it made me heavy with guilt, that day was probably my worst day. On the way back home i left the comic in school bus. 

Initiative on the UN

To the tyrants of the world

Hey you, the unfair tyrants...
You the lovers of the darkness...
You the enemies of life...
You've made fun of innocent people's wounds; and your palm covered with their blood
You kept walking while you were deforming the charm of existence and growing seeds of sadness in their land

Wait, don't let the spring, the clearness of the sky and the shine of the morning light fool you...
Because the darkness, the thunder rumble and the blowing of the wind are coming toward you from the horizon
Beware because there is a fire underneath the ash
Who grows thorns will reap wounds
You've taken off heads of people and the flowers of hope; and watered the cure of the sand with blood and tears until it was drunk
The blood's river will sweep you away and you will be burned by the fiery storm.

(a poem by Tunisian poet Aboul- Qacem El chebbi. You can read more about him in iseeebirds.blogspot.com)

chennai

By noon i was at Mamallapuram, also known as Mahabalipuram. A temple town famous for rock temples that were created by Pallava Dynasty who ruled this region around 7th century. Pallavas were mighty rulers and this region used to be an important port. Incidentally Bodhidharma the founder of Chan Buddhism which later became Zen Buddhism in Japan was most likely a Pallava prince.

I was looking for cheaper accommodation; the fellow quoted a higher price. I told him “that price is meant for people who carry dollar, you tell me the Indian price. I am not a rich man”. Well when it comes to money i am very straight in dealing, never be ambiguous on these matters is my policy. The man who was showing some respect shifted his attitude towards me, he turned condescending even mocking “ayo cyclil thaan vandriku”. I kept a straight face, he realised it’s not working. Instead of showing me the top floor rooms which were mostly occupied by foreigners, he took me to ground floor rooms that were dark and damp. Most rooms seemed to be occupied by couples looking for “quickie”, it is likely the fellow charged the room on hourly basis (atleast that’s what i eavesdropped). I absolutely have no problems with these but for godsake why put used condoms under the bedding (it sickens me). I generally carry my bedsheets and pillow cover-and a bottle of dettol, so i am quite equipped to handle these. Also carry mosquito mats, must say mosquitoes of Tamil Nadu are persistent lot that have even worked out the secret of repellents-it seems to have no effect. They were happily buzzing around my ears all through night, adeptly avoiding my attempts to smash them. The more I missed more I ended up slapping myself, once i was even startled out of sleep, for a moment i thought i was at school getting another tight one from the woman who called herself teacher and i staring at her navel all through the ordeal. Mosquitoes have made a nut of atleast one more man; it was reported in the news that a burglar was caught. Now you might think what is new about this? Well our man apart from stealing money and jewellery from the houses had a penchant for mosquito repellent. The fellow stole mosquito mats along with valuables from whichever house he burgled!! That was his undoing it made the job of cops relatively easy as he was linked to all the crimes where repellents went missing, he confessed. I am reminded of a scene from Rajnikant movie ‘Endhiran’ where mosquitoes were asked to apologise, it is no laughing matter.

Since it was happy mix of festive and foreign tourist season there were cultural programs organised, dancers from all over the country performed on the stage that was aesthetically done with rock carving of Arjuna’s penance as back ground. Saw this blond woman who i thought was enjoying the dance and song that she hit her thighs often, soon realised she was trying to keep the mosquitoes away. Geez it’s the mosquitoes again. Went for fish curry rice dinner, the restaurant turned out to be run by malayalee. Few foreigners turned up and explained that they want to see real Indian food, the one that was not served at posh hotel they were staying (it is called “experience”). The malayalee added many yah yahs while he spoke, the foreigners looked at the menu keenly and left without eating. The malayalee fellow was understandably furious and told another of his countryman “evidunna vanada evirekke. Chettagallu”. The other fellow said mockingly maybe they eat pig. When malayalees speak i find it difficult to keep quiet. I informed them that pig is referred to as ham. “Haammo” he laughed loudly, i found him still smiling as i was leaving.

Early next morning much before the sunrise i was at the rock temple, i wanted to take the picture of the temple with rising sun as background, after initial threat of clouds the pictures came out quite well. These temples were redone after it was damaged in cyclone decades back. Later cycled around the place and went to other temples. Many of the carvings are exquisite. The pair of antelopes at Arjuna’s penance impressed Mrs Indira Gandhi so much that it was put on currency notes, they are incredibly beautiful. What makes it charming is the way the creature is rubbing its nose, it is almost alive. The artisans were not only talented but had their sense of humour intact. On the bottom corner a replica of the way Arjuna was doing his penance was recreated except that this time instead of Arjuna it was full bellied cat surrounded by gullible rats. Beware of false saints being the message. The baby elephants are so very delicate. At one corner a saint was giving sermons to headless students, a woman asked the guide what happened to the heads. The fellow said it was ‘destroyed by Muslims’. I was shocked to hear this, the man was giving wrong information, that is not how it is. Atleast from what i know the saint cursed the students for their ignorance and wayward ways which as the story goes exploded their heads. There should be strict training for guides, unauthorised ones shouldn’t be allowed.

All these created on a rock was most amazing, what made it remarkable was the delicate and deft handling needed since if you give one wrong chisel everything could go wrong. Surely these artists spend their lifetime creating these beauties. These sculptors and temples are considered as early form of Dravidian art that was to blossom to its peak during the later Cholas. By noon i was observing Mahishasura mardana. A boy in late teens saw the bull headed human and said it is a matador, his elder brother said in an American accent “no man it’s a greek god”. Their parent laughed and his mother clarified in what sounded like alien Tamil “what da what you are talking these are Hindu gods. This is narasimha avatar da”. Their father was seen hugging and clutching the boys. It seemed like small happy family out for quality time. Happy family all right but their dimwit conversation got hold of me. I said rather loudly staring at the sculpt that it is mahishasura, “Narasimha means nara that is man, simha that is lion and i don’t see any lion here”. I couldn’t control my sarcasm, it came out of irritation, the family went silent and observed me keenly. I looked away and saw a Coucal sneaking across the bush and decided to pursue it.

Next day i was at Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary, there is no direct bus so you have to go to Chengalpetu (takes about an hour) and from there it is another hour, buses are not very frequent. Vedanthangal is the oldest bird sanctuary in the country, steps were taken as early as 1798- with much insistence from local community- and by 1858 it was fully established. Variety of water birds and storks could be seen on trees and bushes dotting the lake, visitors can walk about half a Km stretch, there is a watch tower with a binocular. It is difficult to take photographs though i did see lots of people carrying fancy cameras. It is a popular tourist spot for people from Chennai. Had to wait for the bus for an hour so, the boy at the shop was keen on my camera, and asked me how it works. I thought he was a precocious kid, observant and inquisitive but rarely smiled, he got me concerned that one.

Phase III : Towards Matrimandir

I started from Mamallapuram much before the sunrise, my destination was Marakkanam located at about 70Kms. intention being to cover the distance by noon and anchor for the night. Some search in the Net as also talking to people suggested possibilities of lodges at Marakkanam. Thought of going parallel to ECR along the backwaters but again ended up at a dead end, this time vowed to firmly stick to ECR from now on. Sadras had some colonial Dutch forts that I was keen to visit but somehow missed it and by the time realised it i was at Kalpakkam. Kalpakkam of course is the town that has Nuclear power plant, the fast breeder Nuclear reactor-the one that uses Thorium. Thorium is obtained from Monazite sand something that is found in abundance along the beaches of Kerala, specifically Kollam. A place i have spent some time when i was kid, I recall many decades back while i was walking along the coast of Kollam i had this black coloured sand sticking to my leg, i was told it is monazite sand from which thorium is extracted. This sand is also rich in ilmenite that contains Titanium. Much later while i was doing a project at Titanium Factory i saw these black sand being converted into talcum powder! It was an amazing experience. Incidentally studies along these coastal regions have not been able to establish any definite link between cancer and Monazite.

Track from Mamallapuram to Puducherry is quite popular among bikers and cyclists. A British couple overtook me (could make out from the accent as they wished me), they were in full cycle gear and customary helmet. The cycle must have cost a fortune, they had bags carefully balanced on back carrier. Their pedalling synchronised as if floating like a pair of cranes within moment they were out of my sight. As pleasing the sight maybe i wonder why couldn’t they use treadmill at home! I came across a shallow lake along the sea and saw some fishermen wade the knee deep water spreading their net, stopped to watch their catch. These lines from the poem The Coromandel Fishers by Sarojini Naidu (more about Sarojini Naidu at iseeebirds.blogspot.com)

Rise, brothers, rise! The wakening sky
pray to the morning light.
The wind lies asleep in the arms of the dawn
like a child that has cried all night.
Come, let us gather our nets from the shore
and set our catamarans free,
To capture leaping wealth of the tide
for we are the kings of the sea!

Watching the catch by the fishermen returning from deep sea early morning is something i always do whenever i am around the coast, to see the variety of fishes and trying to identify, indeed i used to spend hours walking around the Chinese fishing nets in Fortkochi, every time they pulled the net i would be the first few to check out the fishes. Must say the catch have dwindled quite significantly in recent times. Since Chinese fishing nets are also a tourist attraction this blogger thinks that the government should extend help to these fishermen to maintain these nets. Indeed Kochi is known for Chinese nets, a gargantuan conception that was introduced by Chinese traveller ZhengHe in fifteenth century. ZhengHe is an interesting character, he was captured by Ming invaders when he was just eleven and made into eunuch, he rose to become the trusted aid of the emperor and was appointed to lead voyages. He is believed to have died along the Malabar Coast.

Along the way i saw atleast five snakes crushed under speeding vehicles, even an owl-that really was a surprise: how did that happen? It got me thinking. My conclusion was that the unfortunate bird might have broken its wing or got immobilised in some way and landed straight on the road most likely at night. Another theory was the bird was already dead while it landed on the road since even with broken wing it would have struggled away. Sight of crows pecking the crushed mass was gruesome. The route was mostly isolated with occasional vehicles, the morning after a major festival is generally rather quieter this has been my experience all these years. And yesterday was Pongal festival, one of the most auspicious day for tamilians. Forgot to mention that just outside Mamallapuram i came across a village that proclaimed itself as “Sweety and Lovely village” in English, must be expressing their disappointment and showing that they aren’t behind compared to a nearby village that was declared as ‘tourist village’ and so foreign tourists were herded to experience the countryside. During pongal there were big celebrations specifically meant for foreigners. Some years back i happen to attend one near Madurai.

Few children waved one boy asked “what is your name?” in English, i found that question puzzling. Why would a kid like to know my name? Then tried to put myself in the kid’s shoes and presto the revelation: he was trying to work out his English (most likely he mistook me as some elite guy who generally converse in english). I would do the same at that age!! Much further I realised i had a puncture, fortunately for me a village was nearby. The repair shop also sold framed pictures of god. There were too many of them in varying size hanging the shack. The old man took his job seriously and with his thin dextrous fingers repaired it in few minutes. It seemed he was affected by hundreds of eyes staring from the frames. I accosted a man “which village was this?” though i was at an audible distance he preferred to shout back “Kuvathur”, ironic since kuv means shout!! Soon i was back on the main road, a gang of bikers sped at a very high speed later followed by thundering of dozen bullet bikes. Quite a sight that one, bullet bikes always remind me of my childhood when during army celebration a must show was acrobats on these bikes by ‘uncles from signals’, I recall a boy whose father was a member of this team, he used to be very proud and boast about his father being more powerful than hanuman! It is only when you are travelling in cycle you realise how fast these vehicles are and how marvellous these inventions. How much convenient they have made our life. The IC engines, the Carnot cycle-the PV and TS diagrams, the adiabatic compressions and isothermal expansions, i had mugged up these so many times before exams without realising their significance. It is now I realise how beautiful these theories are. What amazing conceptions, it is humbling.

I stopped to have many tender coconuts along the way and skipped the breakfast. Kanchipuram district is demarcated from Villipuram by a lake that extend to the ocean, as soon as you cross this lake the terrain changes to shrubby and hotter. It’s a region marked by sparse vegetations and isolated stretches, that it was mid noon added to the discomfort. Soon i realised i am not enjoying the ride and was getting annoyed. People do put themselves in discomforting situation voluntarily, i was thinking of stampede deaths at Shabrimala the day before. But people do it for gratification from god or later gains mine didn’t seem to be falling into any category, that got me concerned. Actions need to have justification is it not? But i guess these never occurred to me, and sometimes create uniquely difficult situations for myself. I have been in such situation many times before! As i was thinking these i saw acres and acres of land stretched on one side of the road that were filled with shallow water, it shimmered in noon sun and could make out few men at work, about half an hour later i was in their vicinity. I approached them on foot. They were making salt, there are few ways to manufacture salt this one was by drying sea water. The man (forgot his name) said that their work was similar to farmers “farmer produce vegetable we produce salt. But there is a difference farmer need rain, for us rain is catastrophe” (translated from Tamil). This one cultivation that needs harsh sun and no rain! Even now what is supposed to be winter the temperature was more than 35*C, in summer i am told it reaches about 50. My god what a tough job. Incidentally India is the third largest producer of salt, bulk of which is from Gujarat. This process of salt production is also referred to as ‘solar salt’ and is being practised from ancient times.

Marakkanam was about five Kms away, unfortunately for me there weren’t any place to stay. There is a government guest house that wasn’t open to public. I decided to cool myself and sat next to a shop and had ‘colour’-sweet carbonated drink that cost 5R. Found myself conversing with a man, as i talked to him i came to know that he too worked in salt pit. His name was Pakri and seemed to have come in terms with his harsh realities. He said he gets 180R per day. For a gruelling days work under the harsh sun this was too paltry. He said he doesn’t have any choices furthermore his expense are also less so manages it quite well. He was fascinated by my camera, and was excited about pictures of birds and could identify most of them in Tamil. That i thought was remarkable. I spent about an hour talking about odd things mostly he was keen to know what i do, he seemed to have an open mind about things. He thought keralaites are adventurous lot-well i have reservation on that. As i was leaving he told me to “travel a lot that is best thing to do”. Suddenly i realised how immensely lucky i was. There weren’t too many eateries around and those present were all closed except a small one next to the highway, hygiene was a concern but what the heck i was famished and could eat a truck. Food was really bad, couldn’t manage and decided to give up. But since people were found enjoying the food and i had already become an oddity i decided to pretend i am eating all the while dropped it to a rather excited dog under the table.

Puducherry was still about 30Kms away. I must mention that much before Marakkanam there is a small town that has moghul fort, i guess it is till here that Moghul rule extended, most likely led by Malik Kafur- a hindu convert. Someone mentioned that next to the fort there was a place to stay, so took a diversion for about three Km and found that it was a well furnished house and they only rent to actors and ‘famous people’ who come for shooting. Since i wasn’t both i cannot have it, anyway there wasn’t any need for them to mention all these the lodging was beyond my budget. But the best part was i found a small rather cozy alley surrounded by trees and shrubs. I sat under a tree for some time, and tried to take pictures of a very shy brown barbet. Further down some children were playing cricket under hot sun and it seems were short of a player, they insisted i should join. Found that extremely amusing, any other day i would have joined but this was getting bit sultry and i had to reach Puducherry or will be stranded on the highway that i realised didn’t have street lights. All through the route saw umpteen number of one room churches, being Sunday the mass was in full swing-louder the better being the motto.

Two mosques stood facing each other and the road went through it, followed by rows of double storey houses that were painted in bright colours. The toll roads exempt cycles, there was a mention of need for creating eco friendly surroundings. But must say highways aren’t traveller friendly at all, they seem meant only for fast moving vehicles. There isn’t any space for stopping; many accidents are reported as people park their vehicle on sideways or if there is a breakdown. I was watching this TV programs on car chase videos the other day (the one where cops chase over speeding or stolen vehicles and then pass it as entertainment for TV audience...it’s a cottage industry in US) and found that there is something called ‘service lane’. If not service lane atleast some space for people to park and stretch themselves. Few centuries back roads were sensitive to the needs of travellers there were trees to provide shade, sheds to relax. With increasing speeds of vehicles- that reduces surroundings as objects, highways have become impersonal. I happen to see many families stop their car to spread out for lunch and so on, wherever they could find space. Car manufactures are smarter lot but don’t know whether they have thought of introducing some design innovation to include converting the rear part into table and so on! It isn’t a funny matter many families use car (the lower end smaller ones) for travelling and picnic. Saw few middle aged men drinking liquor inside the car. I don’t believe these people, why would anyone drink and drive knowing fully well that their chance of survivalability is rather low. I do drink once in a while maybe on Saturdays that too very occasionally- a peg or two, but not very keen on these matter. I think most people don’t like these things in the first instance it’s the company you keep. I have tried all that could be tried...even drugs and found absolutely no fun, it’s quite dumb these things. Though i strongly suggest brandy with pepper in hot water for any ailment. It works miracles, don’t waste your money on doctors. Red wine and kerala Kallu (with kappa meen) top my list.

On the way i saw posters of politicians, i guess Tamil Nadu is warming up to forthcoming elections much earnestly. Mr. Chidambaram’s face in many of the posters made me smile, he looked a cross between amul baby and hema malini with ominously coloured blood red lips and an extra dose of mascara, the effect was hilarious. Don’t know how much will these influence voters!

By about five i was at Puducherry and had cycled almost 100Kms, something didn’t intend to. Auroville is like a home to me, this being tourist season i didn’t go to the ashram cottages expecting it to be full. After a quick bath went out for fish and rice curry. I need to mention here a thing or two about fish curry. For last many years i have been not exactly ‘Following Fish’ but yes Fish curry!! I have become quite an expert. Fried fish in potato gravy of Bengal, a rather pungent tasty mustard paste based fish curry of Orissa, tamarind flavoured succulent fish along Telangana, a simple coconut milk laced Mangalorean fare, spicy Kudumpulli fish curry of Travancore as also Raw mango flavoured ones of Kochi, fish moilees along kottayam, peppery Chettinadu fish curry, tomato fenugreek seeds filled kuzhambu fish curries of Chennai-a kind of thickened rasam, Goan style fish floating in thick tomato gravy.... have tasted all. Only area left is coastal Maharashtra-the Ratnagiri side. Don’t know whether coastal Gujarat is known for fish delicacies. Though i avoid fishes when i am in the interior part of the country nor prefer river fish neither fish fries but yes i do recommend Amritsari fish fry-it’s quite chatpata, as also fish fingers from carts of Pondicherry streets! And yes I also strongly recommend parsi Patra fish-steamed in green chutney, i do try to work it out in my kitchen once in a while. Fish is a serious part of my diet, and do spend a fortune. Though i prefer Pearl spot (karimeen) and Salmon, Sardine and Tuna are cheap and best. When housewives in small towns of Kerala meet they don’t ask how are you they ask what was the fish today!!

Despite strong presence of French for centuries fish curry around Puducherry has not even the trace of the much famous French culinary influence. Clearly people don’t like their food bland there are limits of accepting things and when it comes to food the lines are clear. I was reading “Following Fish” there is a mention on these lines about fish curries around the town of Tuticudi (Tuticorin) that once was a Portuguese colony “Puzzlingly, throughout the Portuguese presence on this stretch of Tamil nadu, its cuisine remained as untouched as its religion stood transformed. I came across no Portuguese influences in my meals in Tuticorin and its neighbouring villages, but, thinking, I’d missed something or simply eaten in all the wrong places, i later sought the wisdom of Jacob Aruni, a food consultant and researcher in Chennai. ‘its true, and it’s a mystery,’ Aruni said. ‘In Goa, for instance, the use of cinnamon, garlic and wine in food caught on from Portuguese. But in the coastal area around Tuticorin, they still use salt, tamarind and coconut more dominantly-the ingredients they were using even before the Portuguese arrived.’”. I think there cannot be two views on this: curry should be spicy, and is meant to blast in your mouth and open up senses. That is food and it better be that way. Europeans can take a break.

Samanth Subramanian-the author of the book, must say hardly a name i would associate with someone writing about fishes! But yes it is a well written book and I strongly suggest. Though lines like “we were not in Kansas anymore” seemed to be meant deliberately for international audience, obviously I cannot be against these but just couldn’t get the joke. I have seen enough western movies to understand “last chance saloon”, thought it was quite hilarious and apt description of toddy shops around Kumrakum, some are in middle of paddy field. There though is a correction needed: Kokum is not same Kudampuli, there is a mistake here. Even reputed recipe books tend to make this mistake, i think it is time to clear this once forever. Kudampuli or Malabar Tamarind also called Gambooge in English (Garcinia cambogia) is a small round orange like fruit that when dried becomes dark. These are used in ayurveda quite extensively. For culinary purpose except for keralites these find favor with Coorgis (where it is referred to as Kachampuli), and nowhere else as of my knowledge. While Kokum (Garcinia Indica) is obtained from a fruit tree endemic to Western Ghats, the outer cover of the fruit when dried is referred to as Kokum. They too have wide medicinal and cosmetic use. They are popular as drinks-a darkish red colored sweetened in water, also used as substitute for tamarind in Konkan –Maharashtra even Gujarat region. I guess it is also used in Rogan Josh from Kashmiri wazwan. Kokum and Kudampuli therefore are NOT same and cannot even substitute each other (ask me i made that mistake once while in delhi where getting Kudampuli was a task). They don’t look similar, the texture smell are world apart. Kokum gives a sour taste and exudes red color when put in water, while Kudampuli is acidic and much bitter gives faint brown color.

Puducherry beach is a pleasing place to be in, towards the south part of the beach the French influence is apparent and posh while the other part buzzing with life. I recommend fish curry rice at Aristos, though the service is bit tardy and chaotic the food-fish curry rice- is tasty and filling. Better would be to get it parceled since the place does get crowded, eating in relaxed ambience is what i prefer but rarely get the opportunity. It is sad to note that Indian Coffee House has closed down and moved to much smaller basement.

Next day i was up and cycling Auroville, the auroville bakery is my favourite, had raisin croissant and mug of hot coffee. Auroville is an agreeable place, started in 1968 as a settlement- a universal town, where men and women of all countries are able to live in peace and progressive harmony, above all creeds, politics and nationalities. Founded by Mirra Alfassa (since referred to as The Mother) as a project of Aurobindo society, the ideals endorsed by Government of India as also UNESCO. Mother gave Auroville its 4-point charter setting forth her vision of Integral living:

1. Auroville belongs to nobody in particular. Auroville belongs to humanity as a whole. But to live in Auroville, one must be the willing servitor of the Divine Consciousness.
2. Auroville will be the place of an unending education, of constant progress, and a youth that never ages.
3. Auroville wants to be the bridge between the past and the future. Taking advantage of all discoveries from without and from within, Auroville will boldly spring towards future realisations.
4. Auroville will be a site of material and spiritual researches for a living embodiment of an actual Human Unity.

Miira Alfassa or Mother (1878-1973) was born in Paris. She came to Puducherry and founded Aurobindo ashram (Aurobindo was an interesting man, a revolutionary who turned into spiritualism...more about him in iseeebirds.blogspot.com), she was immensely respected by people around. I went to Matrimandir (Mother’s Temple), soil from 124 countries are placed in lotus shaped urn here. It is a place meant for mediation. Sat for few minutes. That officially ended my journey. Though it was meant to be from Chennai to Puducherry but somehow became Banyan tree at Theosophical society to Matrimandir at Auroville. It connected Annie Besant and Miira Alfassa, two remarkable European women who chose to settle in India. If I had cycled further towards Tutikudi i wonder what else i would have discovered...maybe some other time.
I leave with these words from The Mother that i read at the reception

A dream
There should be
somewhere on earth
a place which no nation
could claim as its own,
where all human beings
of good will who have
a sincere aspiration,
could live freely as
citizens of the world and
obey one single authority,
that of supreme truth;
a place of peace
concord and harmony...

witnessing Egyptian history !!

this blogger hopes that the euphoria of common people in Egypt doesn't turn sour as they face realities that follows rising expectations...

On expected lines...

The response of despots in Egypt is on expected lines. Egypt is not entirely dictatorial regime, there is a space provided for protest and so on (though one wonders if Army wasn’t neutral how things would be). It is almost a pseudo democracy so in a way a good study since the so called democracies of poorer societies are of same nature. The ruling elite of such societies show certain classic symptoms Mubarak is only an extension of that. First and foremost we have to understand that they will go to any extent to maintain their power, this is consolidated by extending favour to few people (in most cases family and friends) thus a coterie of power is created which owe their existence and therefore their allegiance on the survivability of the system. Thus we have a powerful set of people who will do anything to scuttle any attempt to dilute their power, and therefore vested interest in status quo. Since they cannot be brutal (as it goes against posturing of liberalism- that get them acceptance in western world or shall we say the west prompts them into these characterisation for its own selfish reason. Also referred to as geopolitical compulsions in diplomatic circles, nexus is a better word), they construct premise that show them in positive light. This they take to a level of indispensability “we are the saviours or else you are condemned”. For this to work they have to create a credible adversary (it also helps to take attention from their own sordid dealings) and religious fundamentalists has become an easy alibi in recent times. Indeed it is the elite (the liberal elite, i need stress) who fuel fundamentalist forces these then leads to polarisation of societies and helps consolidation of power. Therefore they divert the attention from issues of common people, as also their own corruption, and make it a fight against extremists, which of course they are happy to lead. The problem is when genie refuse to go back to the bottle once the use is over (i am reminded of Binderanwale here).

Mubarak regime is attempting the same, they have propped up Islamists, wherein the presence of extreme element in the uprising was rather negligible. Mubarak regime for its selfish reason is giving credibility to these elements, in affect the aspirations of common people that have united them against this despot is sought to be hijacked. It fits into the pattern quite easily. Now this is where the West will get uncomfortable (and so will many Egyptian) and will end up supporting Mubarak-who has already declared that without him the country will collapse. It is clear he is preparing for that eventuality. It is in the nature of elite scoundrels in pseudo democracies to be least bothered about people, and wouldn’t hesitate to take the society to dangerous precipice if that is what serves their purpose.

It is very sad the way things are spiralling, I think the Army will have to move in. It is no longer about Mubarak moving out. He will have to stand trial. This blogger requests international agencies UN or ICJ or whoever to get the banks declare Mubarak and families ill-gotten wealth. Actions should be initiated against banks for helping hoard these wealth. The countries (read Switzerland) that have policies that support these despots to loot money and deposit in their banks should be isolated from international community. People of Switzerland should be ashamed of themselves for living on the profit of ill-gotten money.

Meanwhile in some other part of the world
The worst never goes…are Italians such dumb fools. Amazing

its Moonlight Romance

its Indian Derby Day Dude!!!
if u aint at derby u aint nowhere!!!

Egypt cannot fail

This blogger, like most people around the world, is quite concerned by the deteriorating situation in Egypt. Egypt is an important nation and shouldn’t be pushed into anarchy. It’s in the nature of self serving leaders to cling on to power at the expense of people, Mubarak is no different. The fellow is playing his dirty tricks, too much power can give illusion of invincibility. It makes one see people as pawns and their aspirations space for manipulations for power. Thanks to modern technology people have been empowered and are in a position to understand and respond in a way not thought before. Information is power and people have access to it. Despots and dictators are going to have tough time.

Hosni Mubarak should immediately resign; that the stability depends on his presence is an insult on Egyptian people. There is a system in place and interim government could take power and initiate changes. If the transition is not peaceful then there is a very likelihood of polarizing society-a situation that favors the vested interests. People want freedom and dignity it is as simple as that. Mubarak should get the message and clear out at the earliest. Instead of unleashing his cronies and killing innocent people, he will have to come in terms with realities of situation.

Jasmine revolution spreads...so shall it be...so shall it will be!!

...though the term 'Jasmine' revolution is disputed by some, but a revolution to throw away despots across the world need no name. A revolution is a revolution whatever name you choose. Ben Ali in dustbin, time up for Mubarak, is Gaddaffi next?

Is hedonism liberalism?

“It seems to me that the word 'liberalism' is the most banal and vulgar word in the entire political vocabulary. It excuses any laissez-faire, economic as well as moral. It has become a device to blur the difference between concepts. Our foremost task is the rebuilding of the concept of moral authority and of the belief in values. A lack of values is mortally dangerous to a nation. But since our liberals so hate the notion of authority, our task will not be easy” (Zbigniew Herbert)

Frankly this blogger doesn’t know much about liberalism but realise it as part of American narration that hedonist elites in poorer societies have embraced with much gusto not seen in recent times. That it coincides with advent of free market and that this process is referred to as liberalisation is not a matter of coincidence. It is clear that market and liberalism goes hand in hand. Liberalism clearly follows the pattern of market, it is a kind of intellectualisation of market-a deification that the elite in developing countries encourage and thrive. It is loaded with terms like freedom and choices. In reality it is an alibi for richer section to splurge in their hedonistic lifestyle, a justification of greed and waste. In pseudo democracies of poor societies it masks feudalism as governance. In the surroundings of limited resources this criminal waste and irresponsible behaviour is celebrated as choices. That these accentuate class divisions and depletes limited resources isn’t anybody's concern. Tolerating these choices is eulogised as liberalism, and it is constructed as values on which democracy is hinged. What can be more vulgar and insulting?

Western societies in particular USA have had a polarising social reality; Believer – Nonbeliever became Church-State construct with State being replaced by Market-therefore force of secularism, Religion seen irrational. These acquired Market-Communal mask places Market/ wanton consumption as harbinger of good and religion/thrift as irrational evil force that need be ridiculed and chastised. Market is therefore a liberalising force; fountain of liberal thought is what emerges. Since Market is constructed around primal human nature also referred to as competition, so it needs adversary to survive and so more you celebrate vulgar more you could classified as liberal, more you ridicule faith more it seems you acquire hallo of secularism.

That innovation needs competition is fallacious and primitive thought. In very rare circumstances it creates positive space, it generally degrades into insidious and reactive behaviour, in lax surroundings manipulations. Therefore to succeed in market one clearly will have to enter primitive premise or perish. The reason why things get crass, and cruder people have more say in public space. Values and ideals get redefined from market utilitarian perspective.

Recently with rational and sane voices asserting itself from the grip of market in an ironical twist market is seeking refuge under Religion. This could be observed in America. But my concerns are the affect of these on poorer societies. Hedonism and feudalism are a heady mix, then you judiciously work it up with democracy it becomes liberalism. With disparities increasing protests by common people too increases but these angst fall short of rebellion. Class struggles have failed and so the new rather narrower forces consolidate, that is precisely what is happening in Islamic countries. This also the reason why fundamentalists are increasingly getting acceptance among common people in many societies, these are signs of desperations. Pakistan is good case study, the slained Punjab Governor (quite unfortunate that one but these will increase in polarising world, Competition driven value system, individuals pitted against each other, in such societies polarising forces pupate this reality has to be recognised. Pakistan also has the issue of volatile neighbour spilling over as also rather non egalitarian foundation that base on religion) is a clear example of hedonism met feudalism met democracy therefore liberalism. Since nothing could be expected from these self serving class people are gravitating towards communal forces, it is not at all ironical that most support for slain Governor came from expatriate ‘westerners’. The divide is all there to see. Another issue is that Islam in larger sense is in the same position as medieval period Christianity, it seemed to have skipped the phase of questioning and scrutiny that led to renaissance, the reason why narrow interpretations go unchallenged. Same is the case of Hindus too but since there is no rallying point or single reference threat is rather low (unless of course seculars and fundamentalists go in for aggressive tussle), the reason India has not gone the Pakistan way. After all what is the difference between India and Pakistan except the dominating religions?

The threat to Indian society, indeed societies world over, seems to be coming from the Market that is increasingly becoming the arbitrator of values. The values carefully constructed according to the needs of market which in turn justifies the hedonist lifestyle of elite, these when celebrated as choices and freedom becomes beacons of liberalism. I am told the assassin (a fundamentalist) pumped twenty seven bullets onto Salman Taseer. Twenty seven bullets. Not condoning killing but this much anger have to have an explanation.

It is in this context one has to see the happenings in the North African countries like Tunisia, Egypt and so on. This blogger sincerely hopes it spreads and despots like Mubarak goes the Ben Ali way. These rulers were supported by the west for their selfish ends and they too reciprocated with western hedonist indicators therefore liberal, the present danger therefore is that of these vacuums being occupied by Islamic forces, precisely what happened in Iran. Shah of Iran is a classic case of feudal-hedonism-liberal who was over thrown rather viciously by religious fundamentalism with overwhelming support from common people. This is what polarising forces can unleash, this is the danger that market driven competition can bring, it encourages reactionaries. Religious extremists have great use of reactionaries and public anger. The picture herein is from streets of Cairo

PS: you can read more about polish poet Zbigniew Herbert at www.iseeebirds.blogspot.com or go to birds blog link

condolences...

An Open Letter to our Leaders

We are a small group of like-minded citizens who are concerned with the general deterioration in the overall value system of the nation, but have abiding belief and commitment in India's potential and prospects as a successful democracy. We are a fraction of a very large number of Indians who, we believe, share our hopes and aspirations but have no means to channel their views and opinions in India's public domain.

In the last few months, the country has witnessed eruption of a number of egregious events, thanks to an active media eagerly tracking malfeasance. There are, at present, several loud and outraged voices, in the public domain, clamouring on these issues which have deeply hurt the nation. We do not wish to add to the confusion by joining that debate. What we are deeply worried about is not to allow India's huge growth potential and poverty alleviation challenges to be diluted or digressed from, and which would be a great loss, especially to the poor and the dispossessed.

Our aim is to try and rise above the present clamour and seek a more confident and purposeful national environment.

As concerned citizens, who have full confidence in the country's ability to reach its social and economic development potential, and who have a deep and abiding faith in India's prospects for a vibrant, pluralist and successful democracy, we have put down a few thoughts. This letter is the beginning of our aim to develop specific actions and recommendations which shall be placed in the public domain, from time to time.

1. We are alarmed at the widespread GOVERNANCE DEFICIT almost in every sphere of national activity covering government, business and institutions. Widespread discretionary decision making have been routinely subjected to extraneous influences. The topmost responsibility of those at the helm of the nation's affairs must be to urgently restore the self-confidence and self-belief of Indians in themselves and in the State as well as in Indian business and public institutions which touch the lives of every Indian. The judiciary is a source of some reassurance but creation of genuinely independent and constitutionally constituted regulatory bodies, manned by persons who are judicially trained in the concerned field, would be one of the first and important steps to restore public confidence.

2. Possibly, the biggest issue corroding the fabric of our nation is 'CORRUPTION'. This malaise needs to be tackled with a sense of urgency, determination and on a war footing. The institution of Lok Ayuktas, vested with adequate powers, would go a long way in effecting the needed correction, as is evident from the example of Karnataka. There is a need for every State to have effective and fully empowered Lok Ayuktas and indeed for early introduction of the Lok Pal Bill at the national level, for the purpose of highlighting, pursuing and dealing with corruption issues and corrupt individuals. Apart from speedily installing independent Lok Ayuktas, it is essential that their investigative agencies and law enforcing bodies should be made independent of the Executive. Amongst several urgent steps needed, this is possibly the most critical one that the nation can immediately initiate in order to reassure its citizens that corruption will be most severely dealt with, both at the branch and at the root level.

3. Time is overdue for India's elected representatives to DISTINGUISH BETWEEN DISSENT AND DISRUPTION, while in the era of coalitions, tolerance of compromise still remains a challenge. Elected legislators and leaders must acknowledge and demonstrate their collective role and responsibility in restoring a sense of purpose and confidence in national institutions.

4. It is widely acknowledged that the benefits of growth are not reaching the poor and marginalised sections adequately due to impediments to economic development. This is because of some critical issues like ENVIRONMENTAL CONCERNS and differences in perspectives between central and state governments.

5. It is imperative to establish ways and means, for every Indian, to feel that they have genuine equal opportunities, access to decision makers and a stake in India's progress. Dealing determinedly with GOVERNANCE and aggressively against CORRUPTION, while openly debating these issues by elected legislators is the only means left to reassure our citizens.

We believe that through urgent, concerted action in which we are ready to lend a hand, positive change can be achieved.

Sd/-
Mr N Vaghul Mr Deepak Parekh Dr Ashok Ganguly
Mr Jamshyd Godrej Justice Sam Variava Prof M Narasimham
Mr Yezdi Malegam Ms Anu Aga Dr A Vaidyanathan
Dr Bimal Jalan Mr keshub Mahindra Mr Azim Premji
Mr Nachiket Mor Justice B N Srikrishna

January 17, 2011

Swiss account leak… now we are talking!

This blogger extends his heartiest congratulations to Julian Assange for empowering conscientious whistleblowers (like Rudolf Elmer) across the world. This is amazing. Though I have a critical view on diplomatic ‘leaks’ that is about small talks with no much policy implication; that needn’t be basis of any value judgment it seem more of a nuisance (the market media might celebrate it as it works to their need of personalising issues and small talks, intruding privacy as freedom). There are some interesting details though, some quite devastating and the implication on recent happenings in Tunisia is no minor matter. It is also a grave matter that Assange has been implicated in some criminal case; there clearly is an attempt to malign him.

Corruption is scourge to societies around the world particularly the poorer. In a civilized world havens to park ill gotten money shouldn’t exist. This blogger has written earlier pointing to how these Swiss Banks (and other tax havens) are as much a threat as Al Qaeda if not more. Behind the veneer of sophistication they are greedy scoundrels. These revelations are fortuitous happenings and I hope the Indians who have parked illicit money anywhere in the world are accounted for. We want all the details. This blogger will be keenly following this one, in the meantime how about boycotting or some sanctions against rogue countries like Switzerland?

Serious breach

That a Union Cabinet minister casts aspersion on a Constitutional Body - a sort of watch dog-that has come out with damning allegations, instead of helping the investigation (advocating transparency and full cooperation), is a serious breach. That this Minister who is heading the ministry in question may interfere in the investigation is a grievous matter. On what basis Kapil Sibal makes these allegations should be made clear to the people, we are not interested in his theories. He needs to understand he is holding a Cabinet position of a country of billion people as also one of the corrupt country, this is not a debating club. As a lawyer he is good at juggling words, most likely the reason why he is handed the portfolio, talking is not going to help in this case and these arrogant people need to understand that it is going horribly wrong. Semantics cannot change the facts or the gravity of the issue. Lack of sincerity is quite evident; creating controversy to scuttle the matter is an old game that people are sick of. That they have recruited the Cabinet Minister to make the allegation is a serious matter and doesn’t augur well for the Indian democracy.

Attacking a constitutional authority and casting aspersion by a Cabinet minister is unheard of. There seems to be an attempt to tarnish CAG. Surely either CAG is wrong or the Minister, the case so far suggests that the minister is playing his little political game, its about fixers. Kapil Sibal’s position has become untenable. Instead of strengthening institutions and creating mechanisms for transparency the Government seems to be playing for immediate political gains. It may have worked for many decades and surely have filled up the Swiss account of many politicians (including opposition parties who ruled before, bureaucrats, media and so on) but not now. Union Cabinet, I read, is headed by the Prime Minister, so at the end of the day he is responsible. Manmohan Singh is turning out to be not only incompetent but grossly insensitive.

Transparency in Judicial appointments
It was suggested by Venkatachaliah Commission way back in 2002 that Judicial Appointment need be transparent and correspondence on these matters should be made public. It recommends setting up of National Judicial Commission that looks into appointment of senior judges (the removal procedure of judges and definition of contempt that is used are all matter of grievous implications). There need to be a system wherein procedures are in place and is able to select judges with impeccable credential to higher court. Why the subsequent Governments didn’t heed to the recommendations of this Commission all these years this blogger as a citizen of this country want to ask? It is sickening these lackadaisical approaches. There are serious allegations being made against none other than the former Chief Justice. It is amazing that a matter of such grievous nature doesn’t seem to be moving the power that be. It goes without saying that the credential of Judiciary particularly at the level of Supreme Court should be above even any hint of misdemeanor.

The Law Minister recently expressed concern over outbursts by former judges in the case of Binayak Sen, wherein there is a clear miscarriage of justice not only at the level of allegation but also the misuse of term ‘sedition’. Will there be any compensation for his suffering? Or for that matter all the detainees waiting for trial across the country? What measure will be taken to the incompetence of the judges at lower court, in case this is overturned by higher court (which is quite likely)? Will the judge be arrested for blatant misuse of power?

Welcoming International Year of Forests