Gokarna
is little temple town that also happens to be backpackers haven. I somehow didn’t
fancy the place. A town on a beach without any outlet selling fish delicacies
is out of place, i would even add unnatural. Obviously the religion seems
implanted, clearly it is not what people have been following otherwise it would
complement the existential realities of common people. I have observed that if
the belief system doesn’t originate from the region of existence then it tends
to superimpose and eventually cause misery. It creates disconnect between
people, land and surrounding. It’s another instance of Brahminical Hinduism
imposing its miserable worldview on hapless people. It is in this context one needs
to look at how organised religions have caused havoc over last few centuries. The
case could be seen in Christianity and Islam in African continent. It has taken
the soul out of free spirited African people. It takes lot of time for
societies to stabilise after such brutal transitions, unfortunately for the resource
rich Africa the competing forces are being fed by powerful vested interests
operating from outside. Religion has
become an alibi and people are pawns in bigger games...Sudan is a terrifying
example, Nigeria is going down the same path. Though there might be important
triggering factors but why some religions find it difficult to coexist is an
important study.
I
detest going to hotels which calls itself “pure veg”, either you are vegetarian
or non vegetarian. What is this nonsense about pure vegetarian? It smacks of
paranoia called ‘purity’, that Indian society suffers from (in Kerala this crap
is now ‘pure’ gold rush, they have spread their tentacles to all over south India).
It’s a Brahminical framework that this society will take few more decades to
extricate itself from (save us god!). Quite coincidently whatever maybe the
connection of purity with obsessive cleanliness, the temple towns generally are
quite dirty with shabby buildings, garbage and so on. It’s a defining moment
when a fellow with a thread around his belly dressed in neat and starched cloth
swagger through dirty alleys without as much a little twitch, such oblivious
state of mind is something unique to Indian civilisation, it takes centuries of
amazing insensitivity (and selective inbreeding, i may add) to achieve this
state of being. This cherished framework is now very much part of contemporary
collective psyche. So the elite will be corrupt, and manipulate for their
family and friends, we call it corruption and nepotism, while the poor will
shrivel and die. They call it karma, part of long winding Indian philosophy
worth the dustbin. Not that the poor will do anything remarkably different if
they happen to be rich, it’s the framework they will have to fit into. Sociologist
calls it social mobility (one fellow even called in sanskritisation). Indeed
the whole idea of ‘quota reservation’ is paradoxically feeding on nepotism and of
course casteism. It is therefore normal for politicians to do nonsense talk
skirting the critical issues while everyone suffer. Indeed it is very normal
for media (neo-Brahmanism needn’t be pretended!!) to entertain us with
innuendos while the news are views of few. Then ofcourse the sacred act of marketing
movies. People connected to movie (mostly grossly ordinary talent, this needed
be emphasised) are the most exaggerated nonsense in the market driven resurgent
mediocre India. The mediocre India reasserts its mediocrity with these
reference points. Some even call it ‘our culture’. Some have no time to think
they celebrate.
From
Gokarna ask for Manjuguni jetty, it is a quaint path winding through archetypal
villages, it is as if you have entered into a canvas of landscape painting. It’s
the dawn after a night downpour, everything is rejuvenated and intensely alive,
smells heaven. The scenes were straight from some folktale setting. I saw step
farming, the water cascades in many miniature waterfalls through the hill, it
created a jingle that no instrument could recreate. I had to stop! One
bird i have seen very frequently throughout the journey has been white breasted
kingfisher. These birds have a call that i would put somewhere between
Woodpecker and Barbet (or is it Lapwing?). It sat discreetly on the pole, and
eyed me warily as i passed. A town called Ankola was just about waking up, it
is common to see woman in sneakers out on a morning walk, even in small towns
of Karnataka (you won’t see that in god’s own country...god’s own people have
clear ideas about where woman should be early morning!!). A Km or so and it
joins the NH. Henceforth the path gets really tough with Ghats till Goa, i was
really missing gear cycle. The saying ‘ghat
ghat ka pani piya hai’ has acquired a new meaning!!
Karwar
is little town ensconced in mountains and ocean. The Western Ghats had moved
towards the coast, and was collapsing into the ocean. Karwar miraculously is a
flat region that still is predominantly a fishing hamlet, though there is a
naval base and a port. The long beaches, mysterious looking islands and the vast
Kali river coddled in monsoon mist made it mysteriously enchanting. I found
that Tagore had famously visited this place, and had this to say “the beach of
Karwar is certainly a fit place in which to realise that the beauty of nature
is not a mirage of imagination but reflects the joys of infinite and thus draws
us to lose ourselves in it”. Tagore was just about 22years old at the time!!
What strikes you
immediately as you enter Karvar is profusion of cycles, most youngsters (and
many women) use cycle. It is a refreshing sight. I need add here that i put
Karwar fish curry on top of the list (Swetha Lunch home is little place with
lot of people!!). From Karwar to Madgao is probably the toughest 70km, it
passes through many ghats and forests, even a wildlife sanctuary (Cotigao). I
heard a feline growl, it was most likely a Leopard, it was confirmed later as
people concurred to leopard sighting in the region. Though it was gruelling
track but i did enjoy it since i was passing through verdant forest, and for
better part nobody was around. Right in the middle of nowhere is a hotel, and i
dropped in for milkless tea. While sipping the tea i got into conversation with
the owner, he had stretched himself on the nearest chair and was keenly going
through the newspapers.
“So what’s happening in
Goa?”
“What can happen here,
daily murder and dacoity. People from outside come to kill or they kill and
come here”. He was caustic matter of fact in his talk. He mentioned about a doctor
who was brought handcuffed the other day. It seems that the doctor had murdered
a fellow in Nasik and came to Goa to hide. The man promptly went in and brought
an old newspaper to confirm. It had a picture of obese man with downcast face
surrounded by cops. He explained to me in detail how the murder was committed. He
also quoted to me other incidents of crimes, he seemed excited. He had
newspapers of all these kept inside, most likely properly tagged. I found that
quite disturbing, a sinister side of the fellow was framing in my mind. The
realisation that this is the only dwelling around and not a soul in the vicinity,
had me concerned, and i decided that i need to get out of the place at the
earliest.
Margao is a quintessential Goan
town, the Railway station has Mario Miranda alike work on the wall, i found
that charming. Next day I decided it was time for some action and so a press
conference was arranged (ok everything was accidental, i really hadn’t planned
anything. Things just fell in place). And so i was in the media. That officially
ended my cycle trip from Kochi to Goa. Total distance travelled was about 850km.
Shivaji Arts and Commerce College, Karwar
I
was dealing with students pursuing Commerce as a subject of study. Since the
college timing was 8am to 12am (quite strange) i had to be there by 9am. Dr.
Avnekar the Principal seems like an open minded person. He though is quite strict
with students. When i entered his cabin he was found scolding few students who
not only came late but weren’t even carrying any notebooks!! While discussing
with him about my purpose of tour and so on, he mentioned that they do teach
‘Environment’ as a subject. That i found intriguing, since when has Commerce
subjects showed any concern for environment? Though the fact is Indian economy
is very much dependent on monsoons.
Further probing led to ‘Business environment’, i couldn’t help laughing.
I
had to deal with about hundred students packed in a hall. The students showed some
enthusiasm, and were quick to answer questions. Many of the students use
cycles. I took it as a discussion point, and extended it to need for cycle tracks in big cities (i gather charming Mysore city is soon to have one). The college doesn’t have a Rain water
harvesting system. The college was convinced of the need and he promised that
he will pursue the matter. Since the college had a huge campus, suggested that
trees and plants be tagged and documented. It’s an arduous task to involve
Commerce students on these matters but they did agree to what i said.
Divekar College, Karwar
It is quite an old college and the best part
is it is on a beach. I was dealing with 12th standard students, who
were quite enthusiastic and loquacious lot, and i must add knowledgeable. They
were ready with the answers, even the faculty members showed much keenness. The
college eco club was active and they did cleaning of beach and plantation of
trees. I had seen windmill while i was passing through NIT Surathkal, they have
it on the top of the building. i mentioned this to the students and asked for
their opinion. They did agree that windmill in the college would be a great
idea. Cost could be factor. Rain water harvesting is another area the college
could pursue. Most student use cycle for communting.
Parvathibhai Chowgule College, Margao
Popularly
Chowgule College is a prominent college in Goa, started in the year on which
Goa got its liberation (1962) –the college is celebrating its golden jubilee. The
college has a well kept Botanical garden, and is in the process of working on
Rain water harvesting. I was with students who were predominantly into studying
Geography –that really is rare these days.
Dr. Sawant is the Vice Principal, who also happens to be the best
teacher of the year honour holder. He specializes in demographic studies, while
i was there he seems to be working on cartographical details of goa. He told me
that he is now concentrating on anthropological demography. The talk was well
arranged and the response was good, i was also gifted a Tshirt