Cycling in the monsoon: the last phase

Gokarna is little temple town that also happens to be backpackers haven. I somehow didn’t fancy the place. A town on a beach without any outlet selling fish delicacies is out of place, i would even add unnatural. Obviously the religion seems implanted, clearly it is not what people have been following otherwise it would complement the existential realities of common people. I have observed that if the belief system doesn’t originate from the region of existence then it tends to superimpose and eventually cause misery. It creates disconnect between people, land and surrounding. It’s another instance of Brahminical Hinduism imposing its miserable worldview on hapless people. It is in this context one needs to look at how organised religions have caused havoc over last few centuries. The case could be seen in Christianity and Islam in African continent. It has taken the soul out of free spirited African people. It takes lot of time for societies to stabilise after such brutal transitions, unfortunately for the resource rich Africa the competing forces are being fed by powerful vested interests operating from outside.  Religion has become an alibi and people are pawns in bigger games...Sudan is a terrifying example, Nigeria is going down the same path. Though there might be important triggering factors but why some religions find it difficult to coexist is an important study.

I detest going to hotels which calls itself “pure veg”, either you are vegetarian or non vegetarian. What is this nonsense about pure vegetarian? It smacks of paranoia called ‘purity’, that Indian society suffers from (in Kerala this crap is now ‘pure’ gold rush, they have spread their tentacles to all over south India). It’s a Brahminical framework that this society will take few more decades to extricate itself from (save us god!). Quite coincidently whatever maybe the connection of purity with obsessive cleanliness, the temple towns generally are quite dirty with shabby buildings, garbage and so on. It’s a defining moment when a fellow with a thread around his belly dressed in neat and starched cloth swagger through dirty alleys without as much a little twitch, such oblivious state of mind is something unique to Indian civilisation, it takes centuries of amazing insensitivity (and selective inbreeding, i may add) to achieve this state of being. This cherished framework is now very much part of contemporary collective psyche. So the elite will be corrupt, and manipulate for their family and friends, we call it corruption and nepotism, while the poor will shrivel and die. They call it karma, part of long winding Indian philosophy worth the dustbin. Not that the poor will do anything remarkably different if they happen to be rich, it’s the framework they will have to fit into. Sociologist calls it social mobility (one fellow even called in sanskritisation). Indeed the whole idea of ‘quota reservation’ is paradoxically feeding on nepotism and of course casteism. It is therefore normal for politicians to do nonsense talk skirting the critical issues while everyone suffer. Indeed it is very normal for media (neo-Brahmanism needn’t be pretended!!) to entertain us with innuendos while the news are views of few. Then ofcourse the sacred act of marketing movies. People connected to movie (mostly grossly ordinary talent, this needed be emphasised) are the most exaggerated nonsense in the market driven resurgent mediocre India. The mediocre India reasserts its mediocrity with these reference points. Some even call it ‘our culture’. Some have no time to think they celebrate.     

From Gokarna ask for Manjuguni jetty, it is a quaint path winding through archetypal villages, it is as if you have entered into a canvas of landscape painting. It’s the dawn after a night downpour, everything is rejuvenated and intensely alive, smells heaven. The scenes were straight from some folktale setting. I saw step farming, the water cascades in many miniature waterfalls through the hill, it created a jingle that no instrument could recreate. I had to stop! One bird i have seen very frequently throughout the journey has been white breasted kingfisher. These birds have a call that i would put somewhere between Woodpecker and Barbet (or is it Lapwing?). It sat discreetly on the pole, and eyed me warily as i passed. A town called Ankola was just about waking up, it is common to see woman in sneakers out on a morning walk, even in small towns of Karnataka (you won’t see that in god’s own country...god’s own people have clear ideas about where woman should be early morning!!). A Km or so and it joins the NH. Henceforth the path gets really tough with Ghats till Goa, i was really missing gear cycle. The saying ‘ghat ghat ka pani piya hai’ has acquired a new meaning!!

Karwar is little town ensconced in mountains and ocean. The Western Ghats had moved towards the coast, and was collapsing into the ocean. Karwar miraculously is a flat region that still is predominantly a fishing hamlet, though there is a naval base and a port. The long beaches, mysterious looking islands and the vast Kali river coddled in monsoon mist made it mysteriously enchanting. I found that Tagore had famously visited this place, and had this to say “the beach of Karwar is certainly a fit place in which to realise that the beauty of nature is not a mirage of imagination but reflects the joys of infinite and thus draws us to lose ourselves in it”. Tagore was just about 22years old at the time!!  

    

What strikes you immediately as you enter Karvar is profusion of cycles, most youngsters (and many women) use cycle. It is a refreshing sight. I need add here that i put Karwar fish curry on top of the list (Swetha Lunch home is little place with lot of people!!). From Karwar to Madgao is probably the toughest 70km, it passes through many ghats and forests, even a wildlife sanctuary (Cotigao). I heard a feline growl, it was most likely a Leopard, it was confirmed later as people concurred to leopard sighting in the region. Though it was gruelling track but i did enjoy it since i was passing through verdant forest, and for better part nobody was around. Right in the middle of nowhere is a hotel, and i dropped in for milkless tea. While sipping the tea i got into conversation with the owner, he had stretched himself on the nearest chair and was keenly going through the newspapers.

“So what’s happening in Goa?”

“What can happen here, daily murder and dacoity. People from outside come to kill or they kill and come here”. He was caustic matter of fact in his talk. He mentioned about a doctor who was brought handcuffed the other day. It seems that the doctor had murdered a fellow in Nasik and came to Goa to hide. The man promptly went in and brought an old newspaper to confirm. It had a picture of obese man with downcast face surrounded by cops. He explained to me in detail how the murder was committed. He also quoted to me other incidents of crimes, he seemed excited. He had newspapers of all these kept inside, most likely properly tagged. I found that quite disturbing, a sinister side of the fellow was framing in my mind. The realisation that this is the only dwelling around and not a soul in the vicinity, had me concerned, and i decided that i need to get out of the place at the earliest.

Margao is a quintessential Goan town, the Railway station has Mario Miranda alike work on the wall, i found that charming. Next day I decided it was time for some action and so a press conference was arranged (ok everything was accidental, i really hadn’t planned anything. Things just fell in place). And so i was in the media. That officially ended my cycle trip from Kochi to Goa. Total distance travelled was about 850km.  

         

Shivaji Arts and Commerce College, Karwar

I was dealing with students pursuing Commerce as a subject of study. Since the college timing was 8am to 12am (quite strange) i had to be there by 9am. Dr. Avnekar the Principal seems like an open minded person. He though is quite strict with students. When i entered his cabin he was found scolding few students who not only came late but weren’t even carrying any notebooks!! While discussing with him about my purpose of tour and so on, he mentioned that they do teach ‘Environment’ as a subject. That i found intriguing, since when has Commerce subjects showed any concern for environment? Though the fact is Indian economy is very much dependent on monsoons.  Further probing led to ‘Business environment’, i couldn’t help laughing.

                  I had to deal with about hundred students packed in a hall. The students showed some enthusiasm, and were quick to answer questions. Many of the students use cycles. I took it as a discussion point, and extended it to need for cycle tracks in big cities (i gather charming Mysore city is soon to have one). The college doesn’t have a Rain water harvesting system. The college was convinced of the need and he promised that he will pursue the matter. Since the college had a huge campus, suggested that trees and plants be tagged and documented. It’s an arduous task to involve Commerce students on these matters but they did agree to what i said. 

Divekar College, Karwar 

 It is quite an old college and the best part is it is on a beach. I was dealing with 12^th standard students, who were quite enthusiastic and loquacious lot, and i must add knowledgeable. They were ready with the answers, even the faculty members showed much keenness. The college eco club was active and they did cleaning of beach and plantation of trees. I had seen windmill while i was passing through NIT Surathkal, they have it on the top of the building. i mentioned this to the students and asked for their opinion. They did agree that windmill in the college would be a great idea. Cost could be factor. Rain water harvesting is another area the college could pursue. Most student use cycle for communting. 

Parvathibhai Chowgule College, Margao 

Popularly Chowgule College is a prominent college in Goa, started in the year on which Goa got its liberation (1962) –the college is celebrating its golden jubilee. The college has a well kept Botanical garden, and is in the process of working on Rain water harvesting. I was with students who were predominantly into studying Geography –that really is rare these days.  Dr. Sawant is the Vice Principal, who also happens to be the best teacher of the year honour holder. He specializes in demographic studies, while i was there he seems to be working on cartographical details of goa. He told me that he is now concentrating on anthropological demography. The talk was well arranged and the response was good, i was also gifted a Tshirt