Bush and Blair should face proceedings in the international criminal court

Former UN Secretary General Kofi Annan says that Tony Blair could have stopped the Iraq war had he decided to walk away from a partnership with the US. He said this after releasing his memoir, hope the book sells. But we people on the street don’t need any insiders story, we knew it all the way.  

Mr. Annan however said he did not agree with fellow Nobel peace prize laureate, Archbishop Desmond Tutu, over his suggestion that Bush and Blair should face proceedings in the international criminal court. Annan says “they were democratically elected leaders acting in what they believed were their national interest”. Really was there a referendum?!! Was it there in their election manifesto? Who admitted to 'sexed up' reports? So wy did they lose the election? Secondly, even if there was referendum, that doesn’t give any nation any right to attack another country. Furthermore it’s now very clear that attack on Iraq was manipulated for selfish interest of few, what is also very clear is that lots of innocent people died.

  

Wonder what more evidence does International Court of Justice wants? Or is it that they are only interested in brutalities by leaders in Africa. The neo-colonial white man’s burden, shall we.  Democracy (secularism/religion, freedom of expression...) have become convenient alibi for lots of disgusting acts in recent times.  

(courtesy Guardian Newspaper)

Correction: in my last blog...the line should read  "...must add here that his fiction does lack, where Naipaul glitter". Pankaj Mishra is amazing as non fiction writer, indeed he is arguably one of the best contemporary writers i have read.

Arab spring spirals dangerously as history repeats itself…

The events happening in Arab world specifically in Libya is not entirely unexpected. The radical elements are gaining much space in this region. Syria too is being sucked into the vortex. All this at the expense of livelihood problems of common people as also issues of environment, biodiversity so on…when stakes are high these are but minor impediments. Some commentators patronize it as “you get what you ask for” or that some societies are “not suited for democracy”.  It’s uncanny how the despots in Arab world hold on to power as the West fed them for immediate gains and the common people suffered. It is something that has happened before …

Pankaj Mishra’s From The Ruins Of Empire –The revolt against the West and the remaking of Asia is remarkable book. He used few significant personalities to weave a compelling history. Indeed a history that rather remarkably gives insights into contemporary happening. The reason why this is quite a major book to be published in recent times.  The life of Al-Din Al-Afghani is an important study on how a very concerned person’s world view gets radicalized as he deals with despots and is now very much exploited by the fundamentalist and competing forces. He is in many ways representation of common people, the people on the street who fight the modern day tyrant whether Mubarak, Gadaffi or Assad. Interestingly these rulers too adopted the western references –the kind al-Afghani was dealing with –to project their liberal credentials for the liking of West. These references were packaged by West to showcase these leaders as acceptable for dealing. People respond to the developing circumstances by negotiating what they think will give secure livelihood and dignity. It is this that is exploited by power brokers and vested interests (the organized section, the space taken over by the fundamentalists), as is happening in Tripoli or Cairo. Al-Afghani a very sane and rational man, his world view “was not a systematic thinker, and seems to have developed his ideas on the run…” The reason why ‘Arab spring’ is so much a legacy of al-Afghani as much it is of the common people. 

As you read the book that traces the history in an entirely new light by chartering lives of few significant people that was sought to be relegated in imperial version of history, you start to get a refreshing context to the contemporary events. The dictators like Mubarak, Assad, Gaddafi (and not very recently Shah of Iran, one may add the Saudi royals too)…were encouraged and patronized by West for their material gain. It was either the western political establishment or the big Corporate, sometimes clandestinely, sometimes openly, in most cases there wasn’t any difference, they never gave a damn. While despots role-played liberalism with rib tickling cadence that made good copy for market media, the profits were filled up in the Scandinavian banks (incidentally these countries consistently top the yearly list of corruption free world!!). Democracy was ruse that was sought to be trickled down. Indeed the dictators actively played on the fears of chaos. Correctly put, the West was an established partner in the loot. If this doesn’t shock what will really shock is the fact that this is repeat play of more than century back. It is a déjà vu moment of deceit. Those were heydays of colonialism and imperialism this is the heydays of democracy and market.  

It is also not ironical that in the last years of his life al-Afghani lamented the fact that he had wasted the seed of his ideas ‘in the salt and sterile soil’ of kingly sovereignty. The book quotes him “for what I sowed in that soil never grew, and what I planted in that brackish earth perished away. During all this time none of my well intentioned counsels sank in the ears of the rulers of the East whose selfishness and ignorance prevented them from accepting my word…Would that I had sown all the seed of my ideas in the receptive ground of the people’s thought”. Undoubtedly it took more than a century for al-Afghani’s ideas to percolate. The Arab spring has all the ideas of al-Afghani, as also the emergence of reactionary forces that can be traced to his experiences. It is an amazing insight on the history of the region. 

The life of Liang Qichao’s is another reference on the development of pan Asian response to imperialism as also how Japan adapted on the lines of colonial power. Even the recent tense situation between China and Japan could be traced back to the travesties of these periods.    

The book gave me insights that Macaulay driven Indian education system miserably failed. I recall in my school in the History subject annual exams we had to shade in the world map the British, French, Dutch colonies and so on. Our intelligence/talent depended on performance in these nonsenses. The teaching didn’t provide the context of depravity in these conquests, atleast a contemporary balance on these historical wrongs (even now the mediocre Indian elite –direct beneficiaries of colonialism, are in awe). Tang Tiaoding quite rightly defined it as “white people’s history”. The book quotes him “They provide plenty of indisputable evidence on the extent of primitive customs and ignorance of the native people, as proof of why these people deserve to be conquered.  This type of praise (of themselves) and condemnation (of others) is done with an eye towards the final judgment of history….but now I know that these books were written by white people, where truth and falsehood are confused…I know one thing for sure; if you seek the truth about Philippines in the history books of the Spaniards, you would not doubt for a moment that the country is ignorant and vile, and you would only wonder why it had not perished sooner…”.

Pankaj Mishra is undoubtedly an exciting writer (for the uninitiated he is the author of wonderful book Butter Chicken in Ludhiana), I have read most of his books. He surely reminds me of VS Naipaul in many shades. Take for instance brilliant crisp lines like “The advance of imperialism everywhere forced Asian elites into sideways glances as well as urgent self appraisals”. Must add here that his fiction does lack, where Naipaul glitter (I feel this as a reader). I have reached a stage in life where I know I really can’t be a good writer (English is too complicated a language!) but still Naipaul remains a reference and Mishra a path! I too have spent few days in JNU to know that the real history is history of common people, that which is being relegated as subaltern. The explosion of communication media in true sense is beginning of history, it is the end of elitist history of Fukuyamas and superstructures. It is in this context we can say that Pankaj Mishra is deconstructing history for us. It is the age of Derrida!!  

Condolences

Varghese Kurian was truly a Bharath Ratna, it is unfortunate that the incompetent government is not able to recognize his contributions. 

Mr.Thilakan was a tremendous actor, arguably one of the best in India. He played some memorable characters over the years, two of my favorite movies are Munnampakkam (legendary Padmarajan) and Perumthachan (scripted by MT)

                        

Paisa ped par nahi ugtha hai

We are quite grateful to CAG and SC for taking initiative to make policy makers accountable for their misdeeds. Corruption is rampant. The coal scam runs into billions of Rupees. This loot has been going on for decades, irrespective of political parties in power. It is not only about wanton greed but also destruction of land/environment in the name of development. This government has been ineffective and should be removed at the earliest, the more they stick around the more misery they create.  Aam admi (indeed Secularism rant) is a convenient ruse for corruption.

The hiroshima girl

It is me knocking at your door
- at how many doors i've been
But no one can see me
Since the dead are invisible.

I died at Hiroshima
that was ten years ago
I am a girl of seven
Dead children do not grow.

First my hair caught fire
then my eyes burnt out
I became a handful of ashes
blown away by the wind.

I don't wish anything for myself
for a child who is burnt to cinders
cannot even eat sweets.

I'm knocking at your doors
aunts and uncles, to get your signatures
so that never again children will burn
and so they can eat sweets.

'Hiroshima Girl' is the english translation of Turkish poem by Nazim Hikmet.

These lines by Oscar Wilde and an infamous image from Vietnam

A child can understand a punishment inflicted by an individual, such as a parent or guardian, and bear it with a certain amount of acquiescence. What it cannot understand is a punishment inflicted by society...

Bolt !!!

This was something you really cannot miss, the world stopped at 2.20am IST and the Bolt at 9.63sec. Effortless?!! Not really...  

some lives are just brilliant...

 Great work Mr. Khan

Aamir Khan is one of the hugely popular actors. Over the last two decades he has acted in some spectacularly popular movies. In the meantime he has also consciously sought to use his popularity to focus on issues that matters to common people, interestingly on popular platforms, and it has worked. Worked very well indeed!! The other day i was watching Sathyamev Jayathe, the issues related to water was handled in a manner that made common people aware of the problems and it was done sensitively without pontificating. 

I must add i haven’t watched all the episodes since last few weeks i have been travelling, and had to spent most Sundays on pressing issues (including Derby!!) but have watched some episodes for instance the one on alcohol related problems (also pesticides).  Aamir Khan must be aware that his program is popular and is taken quite seriously (it is unprecedented in Indian context) and therefore shouldn’t have resorted to cheap tricks of including “celebrities”. 

Though i am not against sale of liquor but promotion is unacceptable, of course there are rules against these but they circumvent it through surrogate ads like ‘sodas’. Undoubtedly it is unethical. Indeed after this episode articles start surfacing about the program being not very popular, as expected liquor lobby have dropped the biscuits for journalist poodles.  Crude woman says “aaj bhushan kal vibhushan parso kulbhushan!!”. Welcome to the world of wonderful Indian muslims...made just as ordered!!

Acha tho hum chalthe hai....

If you ask me what was my earliest recollection of watching a movie?

 It was Haathi mera saathi, in Jabalpur

If you ask on whom are my favourite songs picturised?....some really incredible songs

If you ask whose hairstyle many tried to emulate (including me, apart from ofcourse Bachchanmania)?

All these were Rajesh Khanna. Terrific!!! He was phenomenal, though i must admit when i started having understanding of movies it was Amitabh Bachchan phase all the way. And we wanted some ‘fight’ movies....it was much later that Rajesh Khanna caught the imagination, mostly because of the songs. It still does, some songs are eternal and it has Rajesh Khanna face. Condolences   

What happened to songs and lyrics in recent times? They are getting rare (i recently liked the song from Dabang, but these are getting very rare). Apart from Gulzar (he is eternal with amazing sensibilties) and few more...there seem to be not many in Hindi film industry (ofcourse the mediocre fellow who crept into RS, i cannot even recall a single song of this creep. Even the kuch na kaho song is because of the picturing/music rather than sedate lyrics. The Lagaan songs -specifically devotional one i have heard as a child growing up in North. I am not surprised. Some people have made it a habit of living on others, famous the better. As Crude woman says fluterring her false eyelashes “jab jab murga paidha hua hai thab thab biriyani bana hai”!!), hopefully the era of good songs returns.

Deeply saddened...i was so shocked to hear about Elinor Ostrom. I had met her only few months back in Bangalore and she looked quite hearty and healthy, and gave a speech that lasted about 40minutes.   Just couldn’t believe when heard the news. She really was remarkable. This is what she wrote in her last article published few days before Rio summit...

“The goal now must be to build sustainability into the DNA of our globally interconnected society. Time is the natural resource in shortest supply, which is why the Rio summit must galvanize the world. What we need are universal sustainable development goals on issues such as energy, food security, sanitation, urban planning, and poverty eradication, while reducing inequality within the planet’s limits”...... “We have a decade to act before the economic cost of current viable solutions becomes too high. Without action, we risk catastrophic and perhaps irreversible changes to our life-support system. Our primary goal must be to take planetary responsibility for this risk, rather than placing in jeopardy the welfare of future generations”.

.

'Animal spirit' can do meow meow if the monsoon fails

Indian subcontinent is very much dependent on yearly and timely monsoons, in particular the South West monsoons. It is an important source of life sustaining water that rejuvenates the ecosystem, it also is the source of rivers and precious groundwater. It breathes life into myriad forms of living beings, not to forget the agriculture crops and therefore food security of a nation. The Western Ghats is home to amazing biodiversity of flora and fauna. The intricate web of life that is playing its magic for millions and millions of years. These hills form an important source for monsoons pattern and distribution. They are the starting points of not only life but are also the cradle of culture, the folklores and myths. There are thousands of species that are endemic, many yet to be discovered, many on the verge of extinction. Western Ghats therefore is our heritage and needs protection. 

It is in this context Madhav Gadgil report becomes significant, it is a definitive starting point for public discussion in deciding how natural resources must be utilized. There is cartel existing who are exploiting (plundering is a better word) earth/nature for profit. They are gnawing on our future. They include the unscrupulous business, politicians, bureaucrats so on. They have been looting the nature for easy money for many decades now, but no more. It’s going to get difficult from now on. They have brought delicate balance of life in Western Ghats into serious crisis because of their myopic decisions for short term gains. The Western Ghats Ecology Expert Panel (WGEEP) has designated the entire hill range as an Ecologically Sensitive Area and suggested the formation of a Western Ghats Ecology Authority (WGEA), a statutory authority which enjoys the powers under the Environment (Protection) Act.

It has recommended to assess the current status of ecology of the Ghats region, demarcate areas within the region that were to be notified as ecologically sensitive ones and make recommendations for the conservation, protection and rejuvenation of the entire area. Also a comprehensive study on the impact of mining on the ecology, environment, human health, and biodiversity by a competent multidisciplinary team. The report has strongly criticized the government for its poor implementation of environmental laws, serious systemic flaws that help culprits get away with environmental destruction and how the benefits of many developmental projects never reach some section of society.

The Economists and Meteorologists are similar in that they live a charmed existence and are never responsible for their decisions. It seems to fall into benevolent nature of life they live, avuncular presences of 'underachievers' (pun intended!!). They are here, we are made to believe, trying to help. The question is not whether economists are competent as economists but are economists competent as human beings, do they have necessary quality as sensitivity to surrounding and sensibility to the context called life. Or has the insular life in pits of GDPs and fiscal deficits made them uniquely immune to existential realities. Forget Indian economy but the lives of most people (i haven’t even come to biodiversity) in this part of the world is connected to monsoons. The nature has been quite benevolent for last many years. One can safely say that Indian economy -the policy making hinged on pandering service industry and consumer products which in turn work because of the population –would collapse if the monsoon fails. The fact is human being live on food and plants needs proper climate and water. In case one forgets water is needed for drinking; high GDP can never compensate for water needs. Lakes, rivers, forests... are critical for our survival. 

 Western Ghats therefore needs protection, and immediate conservation measures need be adopted. The policies for short term gains by economists, politicians/business and bureaucrats need be checked by society. Policies that impact long time survival and are unsustainable need be resisted. Policies that accentuate social disparities should be prevented. Yes energy and power demands are high but focus needs to be on renewable sources and most importantly existing sources has to be made efficient (may i remind here that fuel guzzled in matter of seconds by formula one juvenilities took millions of years to produce and is depleting at a very fast rate). You cannot use resources to waste, that surely is criminal. This blogger doesn’t really want it but wishes that monsoons fails, and fails for many years, maybe that will be a wakeup call from slumber. Then these economists (who are having stranglehold on policies) and policy makers will realize the importance of sustainable development. Then maybe they will understand the importance of conservation and significance of Western Ghats.

Borsalino wins Bangalore Derby

It was a fantastic win by Borsalino (trained by Padmanabhan, jockeyed by young Sandesh). A rare start to finish in a derby, and wining by 8 lengths. Bravo!!!

Cycling in the monsoon: the last phase

Gokarna is little temple town that also happens to be backpackers haven. I somehow didn’t fancy the place. A town on a beach without any outlet selling fish delicacies is out of place, i would even add unnatural. Obviously the religion seems implanted, clearly it is not what people have been following otherwise it would complement the existential realities of common people. I have observed that if the belief system doesn’t originate from the region of existence then it tends to superimpose and eventually cause misery. It creates disconnect between people, land and surrounding. It’s another instance of Brahminical Hinduism imposing its miserable worldview on hapless people. It is in this context one needs to look at how organised religions have caused havoc over last few centuries. The case could be seen in Christianity and Islam in African continent. It has taken the soul out of free spirited African people. It takes lot of time for societies to stabilise after such brutal transitions, unfortunately for the resource rich Africa the competing forces are being fed by powerful vested interests operating from outside.  Religion has become an alibi and people are pawns in bigger games...Sudan is a terrifying example, Nigeria is going down the same path. Though there might be important triggering factors but why some religions find it difficult to coexist is an important study.

I detest going to hotels which calls itself “pure veg”, either you are vegetarian or non vegetarian. What is this nonsense about pure vegetarian? It smacks of paranoia called ‘purity’, that Indian society suffers from (in Kerala this crap is now ‘pure’ gold rush, they have spread their tentacles to all over south India). It’s a Brahminical framework that this society will take few more decades to extricate itself from (save us god!). Quite coincidently whatever maybe the connection of purity with obsessive cleanliness, the temple towns generally are quite dirty with shabby buildings, garbage and so on. It’s a defining moment when a fellow with a thread around his belly dressed in neat and starched cloth swagger through dirty alleys without as much a little twitch, such oblivious state of mind is something unique to Indian civilisation, it takes centuries of amazing insensitivity (and selective inbreeding, i may add) to achieve this state of being. This cherished framework is now very much part of contemporary collective psyche. So the elite will be corrupt, and manipulate for their family and friends, we call it corruption and nepotism, while the poor will shrivel and die. They call it karma, part of long winding Indian philosophy worth the dustbin. Not that the poor will do anything remarkably different if they happen to be rich, it’s the framework they will have to fit into. Sociologist calls it social mobility (one fellow even called in sanskritisation). Indeed the whole idea of ‘quota reservation’ is paradoxically feeding on nepotism and of course casteism. It is therefore normal for politicians to do nonsense talk skirting the critical issues while everyone suffer. Indeed it is very normal for media (neo-Brahmanism needn’t be pretended!!) to entertain us with innuendos while the news are views of few. Then ofcourse the sacred act of marketing movies. People connected to movie (mostly grossly ordinary talent, this needed be emphasised) are the most exaggerated nonsense in the market driven resurgent mediocre India. The mediocre India reasserts its mediocrity with these reference points. Some even call it ‘our culture’. Some have no time to think they celebrate.     

From Gokarna ask for Manjuguni jetty, it is a quaint path winding through archetypal villages, it is as if you have entered into a canvas of landscape painting. It’s the dawn after a night downpour, everything is rejuvenated and intensely alive, smells heaven. The scenes were straight from some folktale setting. I saw step farming, the water cascades in many miniature waterfalls through the hill, it created a jingle that no instrument could recreate. I had to stop! One bird i have seen very frequently throughout the journey has been white breasted kingfisher. These birds have a call that i would put somewhere between Woodpecker and Barbet (or is it Lapwing?). It sat discreetly on the pole, and eyed me warily as i passed. A town called Ankola was just about waking up, it is common to see woman in sneakers out on a morning walk, even in small towns of Karnataka (you won’t see that in god’s own country...god’s own people have clear ideas about where woman should be early morning!!). A Km or so and it joins the NH. Henceforth the path gets really tough with Ghats till Goa, i was really missing gear cycle. The saying ‘ghat ghat ka pani piya hai’ has acquired a new meaning!!

Karwar is little town ensconced in mountains and ocean. The Western Ghats had moved towards the coast, and was collapsing into the ocean. Karwar miraculously is a flat region that still is predominantly a fishing hamlet, though there is a naval base and a port. The long beaches, mysterious looking islands and the vast Kali river coddled in monsoon mist made it mysteriously enchanting. I found that Tagore had famously visited this place, and had this to say “the beach of Karwar is certainly a fit place in which to realise that the beauty of nature is not a mirage of imagination but reflects the joys of infinite and thus draws us to lose ourselves in it”. Tagore was just about 22years old at the time!!  

    

What strikes you immediately as you enter Karvar is profusion of cycles, most youngsters (and many women) use cycle. It is a refreshing sight. I need add here that i put Karwar fish curry on top of the list (Swetha Lunch home is little place with lot of people!!). From Karwar to Madgao is probably the toughest 70km, it passes through many ghats and forests, even a wildlife sanctuary (Cotigao). I heard a feline growl, it was most likely a Leopard, it was confirmed later as people concurred to leopard sighting in the region. Though it was gruelling track but i did enjoy it since i was passing through verdant forest, and for better part nobody was around. Right in the middle of nowhere is a hotel, and i dropped in for milkless tea. While sipping the tea i got into conversation with the owner, he had stretched himself on the nearest chair and was keenly going through the newspapers.

“So what’s happening in Goa?”

“What can happen here, daily murder and dacoity. People from outside come to kill or they kill and come here”. He was caustic matter of fact in his talk. He mentioned about a doctor who was brought handcuffed the other day. It seems that the doctor had murdered a fellow in Nasik and came to Goa to hide. The man promptly went in and brought an old newspaper to confirm. It had a picture of obese man with downcast face surrounded by cops. He explained to me in detail how the murder was committed. He also quoted to me other incidents of crimes, he seemed excited. He had newspapers of all these kept inside, most likely properly tagged. I found that quite disturbing, a sinister side of the fellow was framing in my mind. The realisation that this is the only dwelling around and not a soul in the vicinity, had me concerned, and i decided that i need to get out of the place at the earliest.

Margao is a quintessential Goan town, the Railway station has Mario Miranda alike work on the wall, i found that charming. Next day I decided it was time for some action and so a press conference was arranged (ok everything was accidental, i really hadn’t planned anything. Things just fell in place). And so i was in the media. That officially ended my cycle trip from Kochi to Goa. Total distance travelled was about 850km.  

         

Shivaji Arts and Commerce College, Karwar

I was dealing with students pursuing Commerce as a subject of study. Since the college timing was 8am to 12am (quite strange) i had to be there by 9am. Dr. Avnekar the Principal seems like an open minded person. He though is quite strict with students. When i entered his cabin he was found scolding few students who not only came late but weren’t even carrying any notebooks!! While discussing with him about my purpose of tour and so on, he mentioned that they do teach ‘Environment’ as a subject. That i found intriguing, since when has Commerce subjects showed any concern for environment? Though the fact is Indian economy is very much dependent on monsoons.  Further probing led to ‘Business environment’, i couldn’t help laughing.

                  I had to deal with about hundred students packed in a hall. The students showed some enthusiasm, and were quick to answer questions. Many of the students use cycles. I took it as a discussion point, and extended it to need for cycle tracks in big cities (i gather charming Mysore city is soon to have one). The college doesn’t have a Rain water harvesting system. The college was convinced of the need and he promised that he will pursue the matter. Since the college had a huge campus, suggested that trees and plants be tagged and documented. It’s an arduous task to involve Commerce students on these matters but they did agree to what i said. 

Divekar College, Karwar 

 It is quite an old college and the best part is it is on a beach. I was dealing with 12^th standard students, who were quite enthusiastic and loquacious lot, and i must add knowledgeable. They were ready with the answers, even the faculty members showed much keenness. The college eco club was active and they did cleaning of beach and plantation of trees. I had seen windmill while i was passing through NIT Surathkal, they have it on the top of the building. i mentioned this to the students and asked for their opinion. They did agree that windmill in the college would be a great idea. Cost could be factor. Rain water harvesting is another area the college could pursue. Most student use cycle for communting. 

Parvathibhai Chowgule College, Margao 

Popularly Chowgule College is a prominent college in Goa, started in the year on which Goa got its liberation (1962) –the college is celebrating its golden jubilee. The college has a well kept Botanical garden, and is in the process of working on Rain water harvesting. I was with students who were predominantly into studying Geography –that really is rare these days.  Dr. Sawant is the Vice Principal, who also happens to be the best teacher of the year honour holder. He specializes in demographic studies, while i was there he seems to be working on cartographical details of goa. He told me that he is now concentrating on anthropological demography. The talk was well arranged and the response was good, i was also gifted a Tshirt                        

Cycling in the monsoon III

Payyannur is probably Kerala’s best kept secret.  With some scenic backwaters ensconced by mountains...where else can you have that combination? It’s a treat to the eyes. There are some ancient temples that are subtle expressions of early Indian architecture; it merges into the nature and surrounding in quaintest of ways. The ‘kavu’ that is a piece of biodiversity frozen since time immemorial and the old trees with huge sturdy trunk that knots into itself and vanishes into the termite mounds, its low hanging branches seems to caress the mud plastered walls of aesthetically done temple. Plumeria scented air spreads faintly seducing everything around, it is as if time is standstill. The periphery of nothingness. The silence is punctuated by breeze brushing the leaves and sweet calls of magpie robin. This is place of worship and there truly is god. It’s a pleasing place to be in, it’s very likely that cradle of Indian culture must have been places like these.

There is an early morning ferry (at 6.30 sharp) from Payyannur jetty, and it’s one of the best possible ways to begin the day. They even stop for breakfast!! After about two hours through some charming view i got down at Pathrandil, i was told there is proper road that will negotiate me to Nileshwaram and then to Kasargod. I very distinctly recall some of the paths from my earlier cycling, Kanhagad, Bekal and Kasargod. From Kasargod to Mangalore is one straight highway. Cycling on the highway is something i detest. Last time around i missed coming under a truck by few inches. It brushed against me and i fell the other way. It probably was the closest i came to dying on road, i was so bloody shaken that i stood there for about half an hour. Roads are now better but truckers are the same!! I thought of taking beach road from Manjeshwar but was warned by people that the road is really bad, so decided to continue with the highway.... 

Mangalore to Udupi is another straight route. I am getting tired of national highways (NH), was aware that beach route exists so awaited for the opportune moment to shift. Tried to take the beach route after Surathkal but came to know that it doesn’t connect. After Mulki again tried but was informed  that the route maybe fragmented. Finally i took the same route i had taken many years back, that is, from Kapu beach. From Kapu beach to Malpe is arguably the most exciting cycling track. It’s about 20km mostly cemented narrow road that runs close to the ocean on one side, while the last 10km is flanked by a river. The gap sometimes is only about 50m. From the finish point a ferry takes you to Malpe beach. 

I had stayed in Malpe for two months in the year 2001, i had trunk of books that i brought from Delhi and intend to finish it, ofcourse staying in the beach during the monsoon was reason enough. There is an isolated pristine beach on the other side of the lagoon that no one is aware of, while the typical malpe beach swarms with tourist and pedlars this one still remains a secret. This is where i spent about two months, many many hours... Long walks on the pristine sand stretch, in the heavy rain in the isolated beach, the best was beach in the bright moonlight particularly when there is a light drizzle (it’s rare to get it all together, but you could be lucky sometimes!!). Magical moments.

From Malpe through the beach then it is back to NH after about 10km or so, from Sasthan turn left and back to wonderful beach road, must add in last decade or so the roads have improved quite dramatically, it really is fun to cycle these tracks. When i am on NH i switch off and start thinking of read or something interesting, while on the beach road it’s time to open up the senses. The verdant field was being prepared for paddy sowing, there were peafowls around, against the green they look enchanting. It’s brilliant, i could cycle all day long, indeed one doesn’t even know one is doing something physical. Kodi beach was the target. After 8km or so i saw an ancient looking restaurant, it should be half a century old. A very old man (he had thread around his body...that makes him a Brahmin, i guess, in the mediocre traditional Indian conception of things) was the waiter, the cook, the cleaner...to cut it short he ran it alone. The menu had idlis, must say sambar has taken for the worse. It had started deteriorating after Kasargod, while the idlis improved (keralites surely don’t know how to make idlis...the effort is surely embarrassing). You do get Kotte idlis too in Udupi -that is baked in palm leaf. My reference of sambar is south TN specifically Tirunalvelli. There was something else on the menu that i hadn’t tasted before, since i wasn’t having breakfast i asked him for taste. It was avalika (pounded rice) with bujia and sugar. Rudimentary but the combination created a flavour that wasn’t particularly tasty but unique. I asked the man about the route, and so began my ordeal. Apparently the man seemed to be some kind of connoisseur on ‘telling people about routes’. He carefully explained, i got the gist and made a mental note, but he thought it is necessary to elaborate, and took the table for the imaginary map and start crisscrossing his hand rapidly from one corner to other, and then he proceeded to suggest some alternatives which he detailed. He then ventured to compare the alternatives. His eyes had white around the pupil, i am thinking he has cataract.  An elderly woman sat in the corner eating idlis, she was toothless, she smiled, displaying the content in the mouth. Aha idlis don’t need teeth!! From Triveni you turn right to take to the NH and to Kundapura. Next morning i took a bus to visit Kollur, the site of famous Mookambika temple. Right in the middle of thick jungle there is a temple that seems to have so much religious significance for keralites is amazing. It’s a mini Kerala around here! It was established by Shankaracharya, but then he was involved in many other temples right upto Himalayas, how this temple became important to Hindus of Kerala is something i am not able to understand. One thing though is very sure and that is Shakaracharya was an amazing man. He walked all the way to Himalayas from Kerala through thick jungles 2000 years back is almost unbelievable. His intention to have discussion on Advaita makes it charming. These kinds of examples in the history (indeed around the world) are quite rare.  And yes Advaita is quite a significant philosophy. Unfortunate though is that Shankaracharya’s efforts were used by brahmanical ritualists to consolidate themselves and their miserable world. It was also quite detrimental to burgeoning Buddhism as also led to ferocious emergence of casteist elements and deterioration of Hinduism. It was beginning of dying of great ideas. Next thousand years saw, with few and rare exception, Indian society slipping into putrid pits. The mediocrity that it bred is the root of the contemporary reality. That thrives on ethics that is made subjective to the fancy of few, the long winding talks/theories that is intent to manipulate. This is the traditional framework that this society has inherited.

It is ironical that ritualistic morass took hold since Shankaracharya was against mindless rituals. Bhajja govindam (rendered amazingly by MS) was statement on this, and i believe it is so true for organised religions too -the mindless following of scriptures. Organised religion can be dehumanising, it segregates and divides. Freedom of religious expression needn’t be a reason to support contexts that give misery to common people. Clearly these tend to communalise societies; the Mangalore coast is an example. Lack of thinking and blind faith has led to such serious impasse that violence seems natural option, indeed it is justified through ‘holy books’. How crude can people get? I feel amazingly sad when I see little girls (as young 5years) packed in black outfit, thankfully its not full face cover. Already the society suffers from patriarchy related severity and the organised religion (read vicious form of Islam, fortunately kerala doesn’t really suffer much from it) has made it worse. Passing through these patches makes me very sad.    

I rarely go inside the temples it is where things go wrong. How are threaded types (the so called Brahmins) given the traditional right to run the place? The sight itself is sickening, this isn’t democracy. It seems another instance of freedom of religious expression at the expense of common people.  Secularism practised by policy makers in Indian context seems to suffer from blackmail backlash threats.     

  

Kollur also has a wildlife sanctuary and a butterfly park. I happen to see a butterfly that looked like a dry leaf!! They have done it aesthetically. It was fun to walk in the place and get the glimpse of deep forest...i will surely be coming here this winter.

Kundapura to Murudeshwara is about cruising the Highway, but thankfully the scenes were pleasant and i passed through estuaries lined with mangrove forest. Maravanathe beach is an amazing stretch, it is suggested that you continue with the beach and enter a coastal village before joining the highway. Then it’s all about the NH, after Byndur the route becomes isolated with sparse population, there is a climb to hill that can be exhausting, it seems to be bauxite mining region. Bhatkal then Murudeshwara –famous for huge Shiva statue. I find huge structures repulsive but must say that Shiva’s statue though vulgarly gigantic is done quite delicately. I though loved the Sungod riding into the horizon, it is childishly charming. Being a religious tourist attraction the place had its own crowd despite rainy season, so you have families trying variuos fun on the beach while another conducted ritual for departed. Happiness and sadness flit the beach, it crests in big waves and then it lay waste. Water is still water and the soul remains the soul. 

Murudeshwara to Honavar is quite a tough ride, there are ups and down. You may think downs are easy but that is where the danger is. The brakes of cycles tend to go easy during rain and may not work properly. A steep down ride is perilous, thankfully i learned my lesson before any untoward, must add i was lucky, any vehicles around and i could have hurt myself quite badly. Honavar onwards the ride is pleasant with water logged paddy fields spreading the horizon. It had started to rain. O the charm of it. Before Kumta (Alvekodi) i turned left and took the beach route towards Kadle. I got a ‘dingy’ and was dropped onto to the other side, after a km or so the route is isolated with not a soul around, i guess i am passing a jungle with cicadas calls filling the air. It is a very tough ride, as the climb goes on and on. There are crushed snakes on the road, i bend down to examine one. Now that’s a viper boy!! I took the route to Om beach but eventually came back to the Gokarna city. In Udupi one should try out Cocum drink while in Gokarna Ragi water is quite tasty.  The picture of OM beach from the mountain top, it is om in shape…well almost!

Canara College Mangalore

Prof Satish Bhat the Principal is one keen person, he has the initiative and zeal. I though am left wondering about the students, since the students i am addressing belong to the Eco club much was expected. There were ofcourse many bright ones, and they were impressive. For me it has been: if you like a subject or idea then put in your best or otherwise leave. I never could understand half baked things, it’s better to go for a walk or sleep...well in India most students don’t get to choose what they like to study and so end up in jobs/career that they may not be suited, and so ‘doing things for sake of it’ starts to define the psyche (unless of course one is lucky enough or takes risk...in middle class scenario it narrows down further). It comes out in collective attitude as the mediocrity. Most people tend to do things just for the sake of it rather than passion or excellence. This is something that is ingrained from childhood. Canara College is a well known college in Mangalore, it was an interesting experience to be here. Must mention here about Dr Joshi (HOD) who was quite enthusiastic, and went out of the way to make the event a success.

Poorna Prajna College (PPC) Udupi

Since the Principal (Prof Sadashiva Rao) had some urgent meeting he was out of station, the task was assigned to Prof Kishore Bhat, a rather gentle and amiable man. Ms. Vijaylaksmi (HOD) did all the arrangement. Must add the college is quite cultured and they show immense care while dealing with outsider (‘attithi’ as they put it). I was even handed a memento! These kinds of concerns are getting quite rare. After brief introduction, there were few lines of prayer (was it from Upanishad?). Overall it was a great experience. The college has a relatively large campus with magnificent trees. 

• The Eco Club is very active 
• They have tagged the trees in the campus 
• The college authorities have promised to take up Rainwater harvesting  

Bhandarkar College Kundapura

I have to mention that the authorities of the college have been disappointing, quite callous in their approach. The talk was postponed as the Principal (who thinks it’s a favour to pick up the phone!!) puts it “there was a mob situation’. I wasted a day. Next day too it took some time to gather the students, though they were told to be members of Eco club but when asked not many responded. Except few bright ones they weren’t showing much enthusiasm, it took some effort to make them interact. The college does have a long legacy and they have a prominent and thriving Botanical garden. Now which college in this country can claim to have a botanical garden of its own? Impressive indeed.

The living dead children of Kasargod

 

Ideally one shouldn’t use terms like ‘living dead’ but Sohail has been reduced to vegetable state, almost all his life. He is a victim of Endosulfan and is completely paralysed; he does understand questions and is able to mumble answers. His face contorts with his body as he speaks, it takes lots of effort. He generally likes to watch cricket and when i asked him about his favourite player. He was unambiguous and came with instant answer “Sachin” (but then little does Sohail know that his ‘hero’ after getting into Rajya Sabha seems to have given credibility to nonsense like “Coca Cola”. Should RS member be allowed to come in commercial ads? Ideally the person concerned should be circumspect. But then we live in a crude world). His mother Sohra says that he also likes to listen to news. He doesn’t know how to read or write, and spends all his time lying on the sofa. It’s was deeply poignant moment to see the child stretched helplessly on a sheet that had bright red flowers. He burst into laughter sometimes; i found it quite hard to face this reality and thought of leaving. There are many children like Sohail who have fallen victim to Endosulfan, that incidentally was banned in India only recently after much protest (of course policy makers concern seems to be GDP).  Indeed this dangerous chemical is being actively promoted by profit seeking pesticide companies.

It was in the year 1998 that one Ms. Leela Kumariamma filed a case against Plantation Corporation of Kerala (PCK)–a Public sector undertaking, she had filed the case restraining the use of helicopter for spraying pesticide that is happening for 24 years.  It is this spraying that is believed to have contaminated the surrounding. It is while the trial was proceeding that the people first came to know about Endosulfan. Amazing is it not we don’t we even know what goes into our food, our water, our land, our blood...while the 24x7 market media news is reduced to entertainment. I met NP Mohd. Kunju -the Panchayat President of Bovikunnu, who also happens to be the Chairperson of the group that was created to protest against the use Endosulfan. Punjiri (little smile) was formed in 1997, their fourteen years of struggle is having affect only recently. There is now a complete ban on Endosulfan, but the issue of compensation to the victims is still in limbo. 187 victims have been identified and 1lakh from CM’s relief fund is promised, this was raised to 5 lakh by Human Right Commission, half of the amount will be paid by the Plantation Corporation. The mute question though is how is that the Company that produces such dangerous chemicals go scot free? 

I was reading that at the Stockholm Convention on Persistent Organic Pollutants of 2011, when an international consensus arose for the global ban of the pesticide, India stood against this move owing to pressure from the endosulfan manufacturing companies!! Understandably there were protests. Later, on a petition filed in the Supreme Court of India, the production, storage, sale and use of the pesticide was banned.