Two hours in Hampi

I happen to visit Hampi early this May the erstwhile capital of Vijaynagara kingdom. Visiting hampi in summer is a big no. I was here as part of my job and could take out only two hours, very exciting two hours one may add. But the heat was killing particularly the route from Bellary to Hospet in State bus was nothing short of nightmare, people were pouring water on their head to cool. The temperature inside the bus could have been around 50C and the land outside was arid with not many trees or habitation, laterite red soil blanketed the area. Hampi though in rocky terrain is abundant with greenery thanks to Tungabhadra river. Vijayanagar kingdom in medieval India was highly evolved and aesthetic in art form. The figurines reminded one of Cholas. There is a statue of Krishnadeva Raya- the king and consorts which is exquisite, it is now in some museum. I have seen photo of the statues with Nehru and his comment some years back. A very refined and delicate work of art.

Many foreign travelers had visited Vijayanagara Kingdom at its peak like Nicolo Conti, Nuniz, Paes-a Portuguese who came in 1522 said of Vijayanagara as ‘large as Rome and very beautiful to sight’. I quote from Jawaharlal Nehru’s Discovery of India “…..of the ruler, Krishnadeva Raya, Paes writes ‘he is the most feared and perfect king that could possibly be, cheerful of disposition and very merry, he is one that seeks to honour foreigners, and receives them kindly, asking about all their affairs whatever their condition may be’”. It’s been tradition with many Indian kings to be open and inviting to foreigners, unfortunately many didn’t deserve it- the experience of Zamorins of Malabar is very apt. However Romila Thapar (in A History of India) writes that Vijayanagar’s friendly relation with Portuguese were purely for trade reasons. A poem by the King Krishna Deva in Telugu (Amuktamalyada) has these lines “…make the merchants of distant countries who import elephants and good horses be attached by yourself by providing them with daily audience and presents…..”. Agreeing to the need for foreign goods but its undeniable that prosecuted sects from different part of the world did find refuge in ancient and medieval India whether it’s Jews or Parsis.

It is very saddening that not much care is being taken of the temples and other (archeological) structures in Hampi. Nevertheless it brings out the irony of the place and people like us. It is poignant, nostalgic, funny and shocking all at the same time. These rush of varying emotions can be quite handful.
Enjoy these poems. On the occasion of Environment Day I dedicate these to all the people who are doing their bit to save Environment and wild life. In particular to TV channels like Animal Planet, National Geography and Discovery (few channels I have access to. I also have a liking for David Attenborough’s programs). They make us conscious of Earth so we learn to be careful and sensitive to the needs of environment and wild life. Incredible people. From crocodiles to snakes to birds to fishes to monkeys to dogs to ants to futuristic planet earth...they have done an amazing job, requiring immense patience, talent and ofcourse timing (wild animals don't pose for camera!!). The dying corals are the saddest thing to happen in recent times.

Come I will show another God

Come hurry. Come here.
He clutched my arm
led me to a cavernous room
blocked with cardboards and stickers.
He asked me to look through the perforate.
Dilating in dust filled darkness
I discern mirrors on crumbling walls.
Did you see? Did you see?
He was tapping my shoulder.
He pointed to the Gopuram of main temple
motioned his hand into the hole.

You see God nearer here, he said
and asked for money.

***

Monkeys take the offerings here.
Colonizing in extended families,
they devour coconut and milk
meant for Ganesha the elephant god
and Nandi the Bull
and siesta with Gods and consorts.

***

You want these pebbles
black and white pebbles
from the bed of Tungabhadra river
asked the girl in flaming midi
holding few stones in her fist.
In the hot sun of May she seemed on fire,
her dark skin as if charred.
One rupee for two pebbles, she said
evoked by my keen eyes.
She trailed for a while.
On being ignored she confronted me
and demanded one rupee
for all the stones in her little fist.
Take it all she said, unfurling her fingers.
No said I, all the while feeling sorry for her.
Sensing, she clung to me.
Exasperated I offered a deal:
Pose for me, one rupee is yours.
Thrilled she climbed on to the medieval dwelling
I will model a god, she said
And invoked one hand in blessing.
Ask a wish.
Ask a wish.

***

We come to pray from far
We bath, eat and rest
And also dry our clothes.

(A reply from a villager on being asked why cloths are being dried inside the medieval sanctum)

***

Looking at the map on the wall
inside the temple
an elderly woman among the tourists complained:
There isn’t any way to God.
The pack peeled into laughter.
The kid said grand ma is gone crazy.

***

You see the god in.
You see the beggar out.
Both stoic.
Both demanding.
God: your karma.
Beggar: your money.

***

Is that a god or a king?.
Is it submerged or emerging from water?
Children jump from rock into water
and emerge like a god or a king,
whatever occurs to you.

***

The Swamiji was in no mood to listen.
He had more people to bless.
They queued up to be favoured
and accidental boons, if it helps.
And before he warned: No photos.
I had already framed him.

***

of small wishes in a big world…..

The father prays: a good husband for my daughter
The girl prays: my father live longer
The father prays: less dowry
The girl prays: less dowry.
Nearby a legless boy crawls for money.
A laughter heard from marriage ceremony,
drowned in screams of fighting monkeys.

(based on interactions)

**