I reached Bhopal almost on time, around 23:50…. I say almost since the train was late by 20 minutes, which is very much alrigh
t. A co-passenger, young man who was traveling to Delhi from Bangaluru (having attended an IT interview), suggested that I should exit from behind the Station as I would get cheaper lodges. Since he had done his studies in Bhopal and aware of the city I heeded to his advice. He was right, a kilometer’s walk and I was in a street that had hotels lining the side, and in various stages of closing down for the day. I entered the first one, not with an intention to occupy but to get the feel of the rent, 300/- was slightly above but I was happy that I was in a range I could bargain. After few harassing search I landed up in Meghdoot Hotel and settled for 150/-. Meghdoot means ‘cloud messenger’, Kalidasa- ancient Sanskrit poet, had written a collection ‘Meghdootham’ probably how the name got popular. But unlike the romantic history of the name, the Hotel was quite appalling, nothing surprising for a cheap hotel. A half finished staircase led to a very badly maintained corridor on the first floor, the rooms separated by moldy dark space for ventilator for toilet, leaking pipes. The first thing I checked about the room was the toilet. The toilet is an indicator of habitability is my time tested theory!!!. The room had a stale smell about it. Very strangely the windows didn’t have any rods or mesh to prevent entry. I have visited Bhopal few occasions before and had pleasant experience with people but there are always nasty people and tragedy is one step away. There is a word in English language ‘thug’, the word originated in these regions (It is ironical that Britishers themselves were biggest thugs, had the audacity to judge others!!) from a class of people who were very violent criminals, strangled travelers. These were the thoughts playing in my mind as I vacillated on whether to keep the window open. Discretion is a liability when comfort is in question, further I was claustrophobic, also I argued that since I don’t have any valuables (except maybe a cheap camera) and so in case I am done I will have the final revenge!!. The room boy brought jug of water and vanished, which was a good omen, since many a times these species tend to hang around, and if they ask ‘aur koi seva’ more than twice it is an indication on prostitution.
There mostly is no provision on clean bed sheets, so it is always advised to carry bed sheets and pillow cover. And yes towel and most importantly mosquito repeller, ascertain plug point connection before checking in, nowadays most hotels at lower end do have these since the mobile phones have percolated. However there is one nuisance for which there really is no escape, this encountered mostly in north India, they spit paan on the wall. The corners in a room sometimes really make you shudder before it merges into familiarity. This room though had spit, red streaks evenly spread all across the wall, biased next to the pillow. I tried to figure how anyone could spit laying down; to my surprise I found it is possible but the mystery of spitting all along the bed was taxing since there was only two possible way to occupy the bed: one is the present position and second is opposite, that is, place the pillow where now the leg is. It was impossible for a person to assume vertical or lateral position and be comfortable. The angle of the spit indicated that the person must either be laying or sitting on the floor, the later could be ruled out otherwise he is a maniac. I compromised on the theory that the spit were in various stages of spraying from the bed, contributions from hundreds of different occupants and their lung capacity, height and emotional state (people in extreme emotional self, like in ecstasy or anger are seen to spit with some vigor). But what is startling is that there is a wash basin right in the middle of the room and is meant for spitting!. Kya bhaisaab kamaal ki baath karthe ho aap!!!
It was well past midnight and I anticipated a hectic day ahead so after a quick bath, dropped to bed and was instantly asleep even before I realized that I had forgotten to have dinner. Never mind I will compensate that in my breakfast….
(next blog on Bimbtka, a study on prehistoric caves)
Tailpiece:
Paan eating is quite romanticized in many of the North Indian particularly Hindi movies, many songs being quite popular also. The most popular being Kaike paan banaras waala. Another one which I recall is paan khaye saiyya hamare, malamal ke kurthe pe cheet lal lal …..the later part of the line is really very gross, our man need be whacked and taught some eating habit!!. Quite a deviance, north part of the country doesn’t stop to surprise/shock me. In places like lucknow, allahabad, banaras…many young males speak with their mouth full, raising their chin high to contain the paan spit while wanting to speak, and blurt out what I thought was incomprehensible words but perfectly understood by others (what about older males?…well they wouldn’t survive to that age with these daily indulgences, or probably dying with cancer). Also unlike me they find nothing unusual in the behavior, the whole situation is very funny. Whereas in places like Kerala you could be fined for spitting in public (well technically), in Varanasi they consider it an art form to be displayed on walls in colour red!!. I am a big fan of Banarasi meeta paan, whenever i am here i have it almost thrice a day!!.
t. A co-passenger, young man who was traveling to Delhi from Bangaluru (having attended an IT interview), suggested that I should exit from behind the Station as I would get cheaper lodges. Since he had done his studies in 
Paan eating is quite romanticized in many of the North Indian particularly Hindi movies, many songs being quite popular also. The most popular being Kaike paan banaras waala. Another one which I recall is paan khaye saiyya hamare, malamal ke kurthe pe cheet lal lal …..the later part of the line is really very gross, our man need be whacked and taught some eating habit!!. Quite a deviance, north part of the country doesn’t stop to surprise/shock me. In places like lucknow, allahabad, banaras…many young males speak with their mouth full, raising their chin high to contain the paan spit while wanting to speak, and blurt out what I thought was incomprehensible words but perfectly understood by others (what about older males?…well they wouldn’t survive to that age with these daily indulgences, or probably dying with cancer). Also unlike me they find nothing unusual in the behavior, the whole situation is very funny. Whereas in places like Kerala you could be fined for spitting in public (well technically), in Varanasi they consider it an art form to be displayed on walls in colour red!!. I am a big fan of Banarasi meeta paan, whenever i am here i have it almost thrice a day!!. 
