Journey to Bimbetka: The prehistoric dwellings

I got up early next day and by around seven I was out. As mentioned in one of my earlier blogs, restaurants open quite late in most of North India, so breakfast had to wait. Then began my struggle to get a bus to Bimbetka. Nobody I asked was aware of such a place, infact many counter questioned ‘yeh kahan hai?!!!’ Finally I decided to go to the bus stand. ‘New bus stand’ was on the outskirts, took almost half an hour. Bhopal is picturesque and well maintained in certain pockets, but unfortunately there were too many poor people, mostly migrants I suppose, and defecating against bushes. The ‘new bus stand’ really had nothing new about it. Vehicles were being instructed through a mike from an enclosure, which nobody seemed to care. Evidently it was long route bus stand as rough looking men shouted ‘indore’ ‘ujjain’ standing next to their bus. I accosted the man on the mike, an obese man with big nose, despite the noise, commotion, and yelling he had to do, he looked extremely pleased with his job. He took few moments to digest ‘bimbetka’, I had given up when he informed that it is Beembitika, ‘you will get the bus from old stand, behind…talkies’. I got into a tempo, a old rusty almost ancient vehicle, it is a surprise that it even moves!!. A co passenger informed me that the government has plans to remove these vehicles but is being resisted. The vehicle has a long history some even refer it endearingly as samosa or was it a ridicule I couldn’t make out.

An hour later I found the bus stopping in front of the hotel I was residing….geez that is two hours gone, by this time Bhopal had woken up and streets were filled up with vehicles. Bimbetka is around 50 odd Kms from Bhopal and took just about an hour and half. Most people refer Bimbetka (which now I feel is anglicized version) as Bheembyetika, the legend goes that this was the place where Bheema of Mahabharatha spend some time to relax. There was an inscription on the road side indicating the direction for the site. Few meters in was a railway crossing, this landmark has a history. It so happened that in1950s VS Wakankar, an archeologist was traveling in train by this route, he saw rock formation similar to one he had seen in Spain and France, he later visited the place with fellow archeologists and discovered the pre historic site in 1958. For me though reaching the site took some time, it was 4kms top of the slope, apparently there were no transportation. It was quite a pleasant morning, the narrow tarred road had wheat field on both sides, in the morning sun it looked spectacular. Up ahead was forest reserve, a man I met assured that although this is a forest region the wildlife is quite inside. As I trekked leisurely the terrain had changed to huge bolder rocks and sparse dry trees. The silence was broken by scurry of babblers, magpies and occasional squirrels. Few Kms up and the route unfolded an open view of the plane, far ahead I saw some villagers grazing their cattle. Perfect, I thought, this is the right place to settle for pre historic people, since it provided vantage point on wildlife, ideal for hunting and the rock formations were such that it created natural homes. My thoughts were interrupted by a Langur who dashed and climbed a tree. It had a majestic, brooding face with none too happy expression (I am sure what he thought was ‘patha nahi kahan kahan se ajathe hai…ghar meh bait ke TV shv nahi dek sakhte’….contradiction here is most simian species speak and think only in English!!).

The rocks were more like tall, huge mounds spread across a distance. Uneven and chiseled by nature into myriad forms, itself a treat to eyes. It felt strange to be in midst of rocks that were homes to people thousands of years ago. I tried to imagine what their life would be (it is pre historic since it dated back to the period when humans were had not learned the art of writing). For next few minutes I roamed around the place, I sensed that I am not able to understand the rocks sites and markings, their significance. It was then I thought of getting some help, maybe a guide. There was not a soul in sight, so I walked and saw a man sitting almost hidden behind the tree. It was as if he was anticipating me “I am the guide. My name is Vimal”. He spoke in a mixture of Hindi and English, as most guides do. He was a self assured young man, seemed immensely proud of his job. But his confidence spilled over when he started speculating about me. ‘You from delhi?’ big no. ‘From bengal’ another no. He gave up, ‘bangalore’ I said. Poor fellow I don’t blame him with my Hindi nobody would guess I am a south Indian!!. He ventured once more ‘You must be in IT’, he concluded. Big no again. Sufficiently diminished he stopped probing and immediately grabbed what he was confident in, to regain himself. He gave a brief introduction about the site and took me around the rocks. Explaining and pointing out figures I had missed. Quite strangely he referred to pre historic people as ‘tribal citizens’!!. These were the oldest paintings in India, more than ten thousand year old, and they still look exquisite. The depictions were as vivid, of hunting and ceremonies. The paintings were done in white and red colour, the red being the later period that extended up to the medieval period of the Indian history. They used natural dye and since these paintings were on the roof and inside of caves, they were remarkably protected from deterioration through rain and so on. It was clear that these sites were inhabited or continuously used for religious purpose for thousands of years. Although I tried to interact in Hindi, assuming it would make him comfortable, he replied mostly in English though he was not very comfortable. Later I too spoke in a mixture of both, fully aware how much English is also about class distinction in this country and so my insistence on Hindi may be seen as an insult to his fragile worldview. It is unfortunate how the system has conspired to its own detriment, a kind of civilizational cannibalism, eating ones own roots. From cannibalism to colonialism to cannibalism we have traversed a full circle, of misery.

Having spent an hour at the site I walked all the way back, although it was sunny mid noon it wasn’t very hot, the sun of March showed its grace. Once at the main road I saw few people waving at passing vehicles which sped unheeded. There was no bus stop and buses are rarity, if ever they don’t stop, I was told, and they have been waiting for last an hour so. There were three school children waiting to go to school (probably afternoon schools) after an hour or so they abandoned the idea and went back. These seem to be normal happenings around here. People have basic necessity not taken care and the ‘national’ media focus on few hours of electricity cuts in metros (read delhi and Mumbai)…well its our (‘people like us’) arse we worried about. Since most people had to go nearby places they told me to show ‘lambi hath’ for Bhopal, one of them demonstrated it for me. It was a kind of outstretched rotating hand accompanied by urgent expression on face. After few hiccups and awkward moments it worked!!. It was almost 2:30 that I reached Bhopal; since I was starving rushed to the nearest hotel for lunch, realizing that it was almost 24 hours since I had my last meal. After a decent meal of phulkas and subzi I caught an auto to Union Carbide site (posted in earlier blog). From there I dropped in to Bharath Bhavan, saw few exhibits (congratulated myself for able to recognize Gulam Mohd Sheikh’s work from distance) and ended the day with a beautiful sight of sunset across the lake (Bharath Bhavan is well thought out structure). By the time I was back it was 8 pm, had a quick bath went out for dinner (they make excellent allu paranthas…I have tried it umpteen times never could match them, these guys are genius!!. It must be the ajwain and some other ingredient or is it the oil since I try use less so compromising on crispiness). Came back and checked out from the Hotel, I had a train to catch at 10:30 pm. So ended by 24 hours in Bhopal!!!!

(the blogger at the natural museum at Bimbetka)