The hiroshima girl

It is me knocking at your door
- at how many doors i've been
But no one can see me
Since the dead are invisible.

I died at Hiroshima
that was ten years ago
I am a girl of seven
Dead children do not grow.

First my hair caught fire
then my eyes burnt out
I became a handful of ashes
blown away by the wind.

I don't wish anything for myself
for a child who is burnt to cinders
cannot even eat sweets.

I'm knocking at your doors
aunts and uncles, to get your signatures
so that never again children will burn
and so they can eat sweets.

'Hiroshima Girl' is the english translation of Turkish poem by Nazim Hikmet.

These lines by Oscar Wilde and an infamous image from Vietnam

A child can understand a punishment inflicted by an individual, such as a parent or guardian, and bear it with a certain amount of acquiescence. What it cannot understand is a punishment inflicted by society...

Bolt !!!

This was something you really cannot miss, the world stopped at 2.20am IST and the Bolt at 9.63sec. Effortless?!! Not really...  

some lives are just brilliant...

 Great work Mr. Khan

Aamir Khan is one of the hugely popular actors. Over the last two decades he has acted in some spectacularly popular movies. In the meantime he has also consciously sought to use his popularity to focus on issues that matters to common people, interestingly on popular platforms, and it has worked. Worked very well indeed!! The other day i was watching Sathyamev Jayathe, the issues related to water was handled in a manner that made common people aware of the problems and it was done sensitively without pontificating. 

I must add i haven’t watched all the episodes since last few weeks i have been travelling, and had to spent most Sundays on pressing issues (including Derby!!) but have watched some episodes for instance the one on alcohol related problems (also pesticides).  Aamir Khan must be aware that his program is popular and is taken quite seriously (it is unprecedented in Indian context) and therefore shouldn’t have resorted to cheap tricks of including “celebrities”. 

Though i am not against sale of liquor but promotion is unacceptable, of course there are rules against these but they circumvent it through surrogate ads like ‘sodas’. Undoubtedly it is unethical. Indeed after this episode articles start surfacing about the program being not very popular, as expected liquor lobby have dropped the biscuits for journalist poodles.  Crude woman says “aaj bhushan kal vibhushan parso kulbhushan!!”. Welcome to the world of wonderful Indian muslims...made just as ordered!!

Acha tho hum chalthe hai....

If you ask me what was my earliest recollection of watching a movie?

 It was Haathi mera saathi, in Jabalpur

If you ask on whom are my favourite songs picturised?....some really incredible songs

If you ask whose hairstyle many tried to emulate (including me, apart from ofcourse Bachchanmania)?

All these were Rajesh Khanna. Terrific!!! He was phenomenal, though i must admit when i started having understanding of movies it was Amitabh Bachchan phase all the way. And we wanted some ‘fight’ movies....it was much later that Rajesh Khanna caught the imagination, mostly because of the songs. It still does, some songs are eternal and it has Rajesh Khanna face. Condolences   

What happened to songs and lyrics in recent times? They are getting rare (i recently liked the song from Dabang, but these are getting very rare). Apart from Gulzar (he is eternal with amazing sensibilties) and few more...there seem to be not many in Hindi film industry (ofcourse the mediocre fellow who crept into RS, i cannot even recall a single song of this creep. Even the kuch na kaho song is because of the picturing/music rather than sedate lyrics. The Lagaan songs -specifically devotional one i have heard as a child growing up in North. I am not surprised. Some people have made it a habit of living on others, famous the better. As Crude woman says fluterring her false eyelashes “jab jab murga paidha hua hai thab thab biriyani bana hai”!!), hopefully the era of good songs returns.

Deeply saddened...i was so shocked to hear about Elinor Ostrom. I had met her only few months back in Bangalore and she looked quite hearty and healthy, and gave a speech that lasted about 40minutes.   Just couldn’t believe when heard the news. She really was remarkable. This is what she wrote in her last article published few days before Rio summit...

“The goal now must be to build sustainability into the DNA of our globally interconnected society. Time is the natural resource in shortest supply, which is why the Rio summit must galvanize the world. What we need are universal sustainable development goals on issues such as energy, food security, sanitation, urban planning, and poverty eradication, while reducing inequality within the planet’s limits”...... “We have a decade to act before the economic cost of current viable solutions becomes too high. Without action, we risk catastrophic and perhaps irreversible changes to our life-support system. Our primary goal must be to take planetary responsibility for this risk, rather than placing in jeopardy the welfare of future generations”.

.

'Animal spirit' can do meow meow if the monsoon fails

Indian subcontinent is very much dependent on yearly and timely monsoons, in particular the South West monsoons. It is an important source of life sustaining water that rejuvenates the ecosystem, it also is the source of rivers and precious groundwater. It breathes life into myriad forms of living beings, not to forget the agriculture crops and therefore food security of a nation. The Western Ghats is home to amazing biodiversity of flora and fauna. The intricate web of life that is playing its magic for millions and millions of years. These hills form an important source for monsoons pattern and distribution. They are the starting points of not only life but are also the cradle of culture, the folklores and myths. There are thousands of species that are endemic, many yet to be discovered, many on the verge of extinction. Western Ghats therefore is our heritage and needs protection. 

It is in this context Madhav Gadgil report becomes significant, it is a definitive starting point for public discussion in deciding how natural resources must be utilized. There is cartel existing who are exploiting (plundering is a better word) earth/nature for profit. They are gnawing on our future. They include the unscrupulous business, politicians, bureaucrats so on. They have been looting the nature for easy money for many decades now, but no more. It’s going to get difficult from now on. They have brought delicate balance of life in Western Ghats into serious crisis because of their myopic decisions for short term gains. The Western Ghats Ecology Expert Panel (WGEEP) has designated the entire hill range as an Ecologically Sensitive Area and suggested the formation of a Western Ghats Ecology Authority (WGEA), a statutory authority which enjoys the powers under the Environment (Protection) Act.

It has recommended to assess the current status of ecology of the Ghats region, demarcate areas within the region that were to be notified as ecologically sensitive ones and make recommendations for the conservation, protection and rejuvenation of the entire area. Also a comprehensive study on the impact of mining on the ecology, environment, human health, and biodiversity by a competent multidisciplinary team. The report has strongly criticized the government for its poor implementation of environmental laws, serious systemic flaws that help culprits get away with environmental destruction and how the benefits of many developmental projects never reach some section of society.

The Economists and Meteorologists are similar in that they live a charmed existence and are never responsible for their decisions. It seems to fall into benevolent nature of life they live, avuncular presences of 'underachievers' (pun intended!!). They are here, we are made to believe, trying to help. The question is not whether economists are competent as economists but are economists competent as human beings, do they have necessary quality as sensitivity to surrounding and sensibility to the context called life. Or has the insular life in pits of GDPs and fiscal deficits made them uniquely immune to existential realities. Forget Indian economy but the lives of most people (i haven’t even come to biodiversity) in this part of the world is connected to monsoons. The nature has been quite benevolent for last many years. One can safely say that Indian economy -the policy making hinged on pandering service industry and consumer products which in turn work because of the population –would collapse if the monsoon fails. The fact is human being live on food and plants needs proper climate and water. In case one forgets water is needed for drinking; high GDP can never compensate for water needs. Lakes, rivers, forests... are critical for our survival. 

 Western Ghats therefore needs protection, and immediate conservation measures need be adopted. The policies for short term gains by economists, politicians/business and bureaucrats need be checked by society. Policies that impact long time survival and are unsustainable need be resisted. Policies that accentuate social disparities should be prevented. Yes energy and power demands are high but focus needs to be on renewable sources and most importantly existing sources has to be made efficient (may i remind here that fuel guzzled in matter of seconds by formula one juvenilities took millions of years to produce and is depleting at a very fast rate). You cannot use resources to waste, that surely is criminal. This blogger doesn’t really want it but wishes that monsoons fails, and fails for many years, maybe that will be a wakeup call from slumber. Then these economists (who are having stranglehold on policies) and policy makers will realize the importance of sustainable development. Then maybe they will understand the importance of conservation and significance of Western Ghats.

Borsalino wins Bangalore Derby

It was a fantastic win by Borsalino (trained by Padmanabhan, jockeyed by young Sandesh). A rare start to finish in a derby, and wining by 8 lengths. Bravo!!!

Cycling in the monsoon: the last phase

Gokarna is little temple town that also happens to be backpackers haven. I somehow didn’t fancy the place. A town on a beach without any outlet selling fish delicacies is out of place, i would even add unnatural. Obviously the religion seems implanted, clearly it is not what people have been following otherwise it would complement the existential realities of common people. I have observed that if the belief system doesn’t originate from the region of existence then it tends to superimpose and eventually cause misery. It creates disconnect between people, land and surrounding. It’s another instance of Brahminical Hinduism imposing its miserable worldview on hapless people. It is in this context one needs to look at how organised religions have caused havoc over last few centuries. The case could be seen in Christianity and Islam in African continent. It has taken the soul out of free spirited African people. It takes lot of time for societies to stabilise after such brutal transitions, unfortunately for the resource rich Africa the competing forces are being fed by powerful vested interests operating from outside.  Religion has become an alibi and people are pawns in bigger games...Sudan is a terrifying example, Nigeria is going down the same path. Though there might be important triggering factors but why some religions find it difficult to coexist is an important study.

I detest going to hotels which calls itself “pure veg”, either you are vegetarian or non vegetarian. What is this nonsense about pure vegetarian? It smacks of paranoia called ‘purity’, that Indian society suffers from (in Kerala this crap is now ‘pure’ gold rush, they have spread their tentacles to all over south India). It’s a Brahminical framework that this society will take few more decades to extricate itself from (save us god!). Quite coincidently whatever maybe the connection of purity with obsessive cleanliness, the temple towns generally are quite dirty with shabby buildings, garbage and so on. It’s a defining moment when a fellow with a thread around his belly dressed in neat and starched cloth swagger through dirty alleys without as much a little twitch, such oblivious state of mind is something unique to Indian civilisation, it takes centuries of amazing insensitivity (and selective inbreeding, i may add) to achieve this state of being. This cherished framework is now very much part of contemporary collective psyche. So the elite will be corrupt, and manipulate for their family and friends, we call it corruption and nepotism, while the poor will shrivel and die. They call it karma, part of long winding Indian philosophy worth the dustbin. Not that the poor will do anything remarkably different if they happen to be rich, it’s the framework they will have to fit into. Sociologist calls it social mobility (one fellow even called in sanskritisation). Indeed the whole idea of ‘quota reservation’ is paradoxically feeding on nepotism and of course casteism. It is therefore normal for politicians to do nonsense talk skirting the critical issues while everyone suffer. Indeed it is very normal for media (neo-Brahmanism needn’t be pretended!!) to entertain us with innuendos while the news are views of few. Then ofcourse the sacred act of marketing movies. People connected to movie (mostly grossly ordinary talent, this needed be emphasised) are the most exaggerated nonsense in the market driven resurgent mediocre India. The mediocre India reasserts its mediocrity with these reference points. Some even call it ‘our culture’. Some have no time to think they celebrate.     

From Gokarna ask for Manjuguni jetty, it is a quaint path winding through archetypal villages, it is as if you have entered into a canvas of landscape painting. It’s the dawn after a night downpour, everything is rejuvenated and intensely alive, smells heaven. The scenes were straight from some folktale setting. I saw step farming, the water cascades in many miniature waterfalls through the hill, it created a jingle that no instrument could recreate. I had to stop! One bird i have seen very frequently throughout the journey has been white breasted kingfisher. These birds have a call that i would put somewhere between Woodpecker and Barbet (or is it Lapwing?). It sat discreetly on the pole, and eyed me warily as i passed. A town called Ankola was just about waking up, it is common to see woman in sneakers out on a morning walk, even in small towns of Karnataka (you won’t see that in god’s own country...god’s own people have clear ideas about where woman should be early morning!!). A Km or so and it joins the NH. Henceforth the path gets really tough with Ghats till Goa, i was really missing gear cycle. The saying ‘ghat ghat ka pani piya hai’ has acquired a new meaning!!

Karwar is little town ensconced in mountains and ocean. The Western Ghats had moved towards the coast, and was collapsing into the ocean. Karwar miraculously is a flat region that still is predominantly a fishing hamlet, though there is a naval base and a port. The long beaches, mysterious looking islands and the vast Kali river coddled in monsoon mist made it mysteriously enchanting. I found that Tagore had famously visited this place, and had this to say “the beach of Karwar is certainly a fit place in which to realise that the beauty of nature is not a mirage of imagination but reflects the joys of infinite and thus draws us to lose ourselves in it”. Tagore was just about 22years old at the time!!  

    

What strikes you immediately as you enter Karvar is profusion of cycles, most youngsters (and many women) use cycle. It is a refreshing sight. I need add here that i put Karwar fish curry on top of the list (Swetha Lunch home is little place with lot of people!!). From Karwar to Madgao is probably the toughest 70km, it passes through many ghats and forests, even a wildlife sanctuary (Cotigao). I heard a feline growl, it was most likely a Leopard, it was confirmed later as people concurred to leopard sighting in the region. Though it was gruelling track but i did enjoy it since i was passing through verdant forest, and for better part nobody was around. Right in the middle of nowhere is a hotel, and i dropped in for milkless tea. While sipping the tea i got into conversation with the owner, he had stretched himself on the nearest chair and was keenly going through the newspapers.

“So what’s happening in Goa?”

“What can happen here, daily murder and dacoity. People from outside come to kill or they kill and come here”. He was caustic matter of fact in his talk. He mentioned about a doctor who was brought handcuffed the other day. It seems that the doctor had murdered a fellow in Nasik and came to Goa to hide. The man promptly went in and brought an old newspaper to confirm. It had a picture of obese man with downcast face surrounded by cops. He explained to me in detail how the murder was committed. He also quoted to me other incidents of crimes, he seemed excited. He had newspapers of all these kept inside, most likely properly tagged. I found that quite disturbing, a sinister side of the fellow was framing in my mind. The realisation that this is the only dwelling around and not a soul in the vicinity, had me concerned, and i decided that i need to get out of the place at the earliest.

Margao is a quintessential Goan town, the Railway station has Mario Miranda alike work on the wall, i found that charming. Next day I decided it was time for some action and so a press conference was arranged (ok everything was accidental, i really hadn’t planned anything. Things just fell in place). And so i was in the media. That officially ended my cycle trip from Kochi to Goa. Total distance travelled was about 850km.  

         

Shivaji Arts and Commerce College, Karwar

I was dealing with students pursuing Commerce as a subject of study. Since the college timing was 8am to 12am (quite strange) i had to be there by 9am. Dr. Avnekar the Principal seems like an open minded person. He though is quite strict with students. When i entered his cabin he was found scolding few students who not only came late but weren’t even carrying any notebooks!! While discussing with him about my purpose of tour and so on, he mentioned that they do teach ‘Environment’ as a subject. That i found intriguing, since when has Commerce subjects showed any concern for environment? Though the fact is Indian economy is very much dependent on monsoons.  Further probing led to ‘Business environment’, i couldn’t help laughing.

                  I had to deal with about hundred students packed in a hall. The students showed some enthusiasm, and were quick to answer questions. Many of the students use cycles. I took it as a discussion point, and extended it to need for cycle tracks in big cities (i gather charming Mysore city is soon to have one). The college doesn’t have a Rain water harvesting system. The college was convinced of the need and he promised that he will pursue the matter. Since the college had a huge campus, suggested that trees and plants be tagged and documented. It’s an arduous task to involve Commerce students on these matters but they did agree to what i said. 

Divekar College, Karwar 

 It is quite an old college and the best part is it is on a beach. I was dealing with 12^th standard students, who were quite enthusiastic and loquacious lot, and i must add knowledgeable. They were ready with the answers, even the faculty members showed much keenness. The college eco club was active and they did cleaning of beach and plantation of trees. I had seen windmill while i was passing through NIT Surathkal, they have it on the top of the building. i mentioned this to the students and asked for their opinion. They did agree that windmill in the college would be a great idea. Cost could be factor. Rain water harvesting is another area the college could pursue. Most student use cycle for communting. 

Parvathibhai Chowgule College, Margao 

Popularly Chowgule College is a prominent college in Goa, started in the year on which Goa got its liberation (1962) –the college is celebrating its golden jubilee. The college has a well kept Botanical garden, and is in the process of working on Rain water harvesting. I was with students who were predominantly into studying Geography –that really is rare these days.  Dr. Sawant is the Vice Principal, who also happens to be the best teacher of the year honour holder. He specializes in demographic studies, while i was there he seems to be working on cartographical details of goa. He told me that he is now concentrating on anthropological demography. The talk was well arranged and the response was good, i was also gifted a Tshirt                        

Cycling in the monsoon III

Payyannur is probably Kerala’s best kept secret.  With some scenic backwaters ensconced by mountains...where else can you have that combination? It’s a treat to the eyes. There are some ancient temples that are subtle expressions of early Indian architecture; it merges into the nature and surrounding in quaintest of ways. The ‘kavu’ that is a piece of biodiversity frozen since time immemorial and the old trees with huge sturdy trunk that knots into itself and vanishes into the termite mounds, its low hanging branches seems to caress the mud plastered walls of aesthetically done temple. Plumeria scented air spreads faintly seducing everything around, it is as if time is standstill. The periphery of nothingness. The silence is punctuated by breeze brushing the leaves and sweet calls of magpie robin. This is place of worship and there truly is god. It’s a pleasing place to be in, it’s very likely that cradle of Indian culture must have been places like these.

There is an early morning ferry (at 6.30 sharp) from Payyannur jetty, and it’s one of the best possible ways to begin the day. They even stop for breakfast!! After about two hours through some charming view i got down at Pathrandil, i was told there is proper road that will negotiate me to Nileshwaram and then to Kasargod. I very distinctly recall some of the paths from my earlier cycling, Kanhagad, Bekal and Kasargod. From Kasargod to Mangalore is one straight highway. Cycling on the highway is something i detest. Last time around i missed coming under a truck by few inches. It brushed against me and i fell the other way. It probably was the closest i came to dying on road, i was so bloody shaken that i stood there for about half an hour. Roads are now better but truckers are the same!! I thought of taking beach road from Manjeshwar but was warned by people that the road is really bad, so decided to continue with the highway.... 

Mangalore to Udupi is another straight route. I am getting tired of national highways (NH), was aware that beach route exists so awaited for the opportune moment to shift. Tried to take the beach route after Surathkal but came to know that it doesn’t connect. After Mulki again tried but was informed  that the route maybe fragmented. Finally i took the same route i had taken many years back, that is, from Kapu beach. From Kapu beach to Malpe is arguably the most exciting cycling track. It’s about 20km mostly cemented narrow road that runs close to the ocean on one side, while the last 10km is flanked by a river. The gap sometimes is only about 50m. From the finish point a ferry takes you to Malpe beach. 

I had stayed in Malpe for two months in the year 2001, i had trunk of books that i brought from Delhi and intend to finish it, ofcourse staying in the beach during the monsoon was reason enough. There is an isolated pristine beach on the other side of the lagoon that no one is aware of, while the typical malpe beach swarms with tourist and pedlars this one still remains a secret. This is where i spent about two months, many many hours... Long walks on the pristine sand stretch, in the heavy rain in the isolated beach, the best was beach in the bright moonlight particularly when there is a light drizzle (it’s rare to get it all together, but you could be lucky sometimes!!). Magical moments.

From Malpe through the beach then it is back to NH after about 10km or so, from Sasthan turn left and back to wonderful beach road, must add in last decade or so the roads have improved quite dramatically, it really is fun to cycle these tracks. When i am on NH i switch off and start thinking of read or something interesting, while on the beach road it’s time to open up the senses. The verdant field was being prepared for paddy sowing, there were peafowls around, against the green they look enchanting. It’s brilliant, i could cycle all day long, indeed one doesn’t even know one is doing something physical. Kodi beach was the target. After 8km or so i saw an ancient looking restaurant, it should be half a century old. A very old man (he had thread around his body...that makes him a Brahmin, i guess, in the mediocre traditional Indian conception of things) was the waiter, the cook, the cleaner...to cut it short he ran it alone. The menu had idlis, must say sambar has taken for the worse. It had started deteriorating after Kasargod, while the idlis improved (keralites surely don’t know how to make idlis...the effort is surely embarrassing). You do get Kotte idlis too in Udupi -that is baked in palm leaf. My reference of sambar is south TN specifically Tirunalvelli. There was something else on the menu that i hadn’t tasted before, since i wasn’t having breakfast i asked him for taste. It was avalika (pounded rice) with bujia and sugar. Rudimentary but the combination created a flavour that wasn’t particularly tasty but unique. I asked the man about the route, and so began my ordeal. Apparently the man seemed to be some kind of connoisseur on ‘telling people about routes’. He carefully explained, i got the gist and made a mental note, but he thought it is necessary to elaborate, and took the table for the imaginary map and start crisscrossing his hand rapidly from one corner to other, and then he proceeded to suggest some alternatives which he detailed. He then ventured to compare the alternatives. His eyes had white around the pupil, i am thinking he has cataract.  An elderly woman sat in the corner eating idlis, she was toothless, she smiled, displaying the content in the mouth. Aha idlis don’t need teeth!! From Triveni you turn right to take to the NH and to Kundapura. Next morning i took a bus to visit Kollur, the site of famous Mookambika temple. Right in the middle of thick jungle there is a temple that seems to have so much religious significance for keralites is amazing. It’s a mini Kerala around here! It was established by Shankaracharya, but then he was involved in many other temples right upto Himalayas, how this temple became important to Hindus of Kerala is something i am not able to understand. One thing though is very sure and that is Shakaracharya was an amazing man. He walked all the way to Himalayas from Kerala through thick jungles 2000 years back is almost unbelievable. His intention to have discussion on Advaita makes it charming. These kinds of examples in the history (indeed around the world) are quite rare.  And yes Advaita is quite a significant philosophy. Unfortunate though is that Shankaracharya’s efforts were used by brahmanical ritualists to consolidate themselves and their miserable world. It was also quite detrimental to burgeoning Buddhism as also led to ferocious emergence of casteist elements and deterioration of Hinduism. It was beginning of dying of great ideas. Next thousand years saw, with few and rare exception, Indian society slipping into putrid pits. The mediocrity that it bred is the root of the contemporary reality. That thrives on ethics that is made subjective to the fancy of few, the long winding talks/theories that is intent to manipulate. This is the traditional framework that this society has inherited.

It is ironical that ritualistic morass took hold since Shankaracharya was against mindless rituals. Bhajja govindam (rendered amazingly by MS) was statement on this, and i believe it is so true for organised religions too -the mindless following of scriptures. Organised religion can be dehumanising, it segregates and divides. Freedom of religious expression needn’t be a reason to support contexts that give misery to common people. Clearly these tend to communalise societies; the Mangalore coast is an example. Lack of thinking and blind faith has led to such serious impasse that violence seems natural option, indeed it is justified through ‘holy books’. How crude can people get? I feel amazingly sad when I see little girls (as young 5years) packed in black outfit, thankfully its not full face cover. Already the society suffers from patriarchy related severity and the organised religion (read vicious form of Islam, fortunately kerala doesn’t really suffer much from it) has made it worse. Passing through these patches makes me very sad.    

I rarely go inside the temples it is where things go wrong. How are threaded types (the so called Brahmins) given the traditional right to run the place? The sight itself is sickening, this isn’t democracy. It seems another instance of freedom of religious expression at the expense of common people.  Secularism practised by policy makers in Indian context seems to suffer from blackmail backlash threats.     

  

Kollur also has a wildlife sanctuary and a butterfly park. I happen to see a butterfly that looked like a dry leaf!! They have done it aesthetically. It was fun to walk in the place and get the glimpse of deep forest...i will surely be coming here this winter.

Kundapura to Murudeshwara is about cruising the Highway, but thankfully the scenes were pleasant and i passed through estuaries lined with mangrove forest. Maravanathe beach is an amazing stretch, it is suggested that you continue with the beach and enter a coastal village before joining the highway. Then it’s all about the NH, after Byndur the route becomes isolated with sparse population, there is a climb to hill that can be exhausting, it seems to be bauxite mining region. Bhatkal then Murudeshwara –famous for huge Shiva statue. I find huge structures repulsive but must say that Shiva’s statue though vulgarly gigantic is done quite delicately. I though loved the Sungod riding into the horizon, it is childishly charming. Being a religious tourist attraction the place had its own crowd despite rainy season, so you have families trying variuos fun on the beach while another conducted ritual for departed. Happiness and sadness flit the beach, it crests in big waves and then it lay waste. Water is still water and the soul remains the soul. 

Murudeshwara to Honavar is quite a tough ride, there are ups and down. You may think downs are easy but that is where the danger is. The brakes of cycles tend to go easy during rain and may not work properly. A steep down ride is perilous, thankfully i learned my lesson before any untoward, must add i was lucky, any vehicles around and i could have hurt myself quite badly. Honavar onwards the ride is pleasant with water logged paddy fields spreading the horizon. It had started to rain. O the charm of it. Before Kumta (Alvekodi) i turned left and took the beach route towards Kadle. I got a ‘dingy’ and was dropped onto to the other side, after a km or so the route is isolated with not a soul around, i guess i am passing a jungle with cicadas calls filling the air. It is a very tough ride, as the climb goes on and on. There are crushed snakes on the road, i bend down to examine one. Now that’s a viper boy!! I took the route to Om beach but eventually came back to the Gokarna city. In Udupi one should try out Cocum drink while in Gokarna Ragi water is quite tasty.  The picture of OM beach from the mountain top, it is om in shape…well almost!

Canara College Mangalore

Prof Satish Bhat the Principal is one keen person, he has the initiative and zeal. I though am left wondering about the students, since the students i am addressing belong to the Eco club much was expected. There were ofcourse many bright ones, and they were impressive. For me it has been: if you like a subject or idea then put in your best or otherwise leave. I never could understand half baked things, it’s better to go for a walk or sleep...well in India most students don’t get to choose what they like to study and so end up in jobs/career that they may not be suited, and so ‘doing things for sake of it’ starts to define the psyche (unless of course one is lucky enough or takes risk...in middle class scenario it narrows down further). It comes out in collective attitude as the mediocrity. Most people tend to do things just for the sake of it rather than passion or excellence. This is something that is ingrained from childhood. Canara College is a well known college in Mangalore, it was an interesting experience to be here. Must mention here about Dr Joshi (HOD) who was quite enthusiastic, and went out of the way to make the event a success.

Poorna Prajna College (PPC) Udupi

Since the Principal (Prof Sadashiva Rao) had some urgent meeting he was out of station, the task was assigned to Prof Kishore Bhat, a rather gentle and amiable man. Ms. Vijaylaksmi (HOD) did all the arrangement. Must add the college is quite cultured and they show immense care while dealing with outsider (‘attithi’ as they put it). I was even handed a memento! These kinds of concerns are getting quite rare. After brief introduction, there were few lines of prayer (was it from Upanishad?). Overall it was a great experience. The college has a relatively large campus with magnificent trees. 

• The Eco Club is very active 
• They have tagged the trees in the campus 
• The college authorities have promised to take up Rainwater harvesting  

Bhandarkar College Kundapura

I have to mention that the authorities of the college have been disappointing, quite callous in their approach. The talk was postponed as the Principal (who thinks it’s a favour to pick up the phone!!) puts it “there was a mob situation’. I wasted a day. Next day too it took some time to gather the students, though they were told to be members of Eco club but when asked not many responded. Except few bright ones they weren’t showing much enthusiasm, it took some effort to make them interact. The college does have a long legacy and they have a prominent and thriving Botanical garden. Now which college in this country can claim to have a botanical garden of its own? Impressive indeed.

The living dead children of Kasargod

 

Ideally one shouldn’t use terms like ‘living dead’ but Sohail has been reduced to vegetable state, almost all his life. He is a victim of Endosulfan and is completely paralysed; he does understand questions and is able to mumble answers. His face contorts with his body as he speaks, it takes lots of effort. He generally likes to watch cricket and when i asked him about his favourite player. He was unambiguous and came with instant answer “Sachin” (but then little does Sohail know that his ‘hero’ after getting into Rajya Sabha seems to have given credibility to nonsense like “Coca Cola”. Should RS member be allowed to come in commercial ads? Ideally the person concerned should be circumspect. But then we live in a crude world). His mother Sohra says that he also likes to listen to news. He doesn’t know how to read or write, and spends all his time lying on the sofa. It’s was deeply poignant moment to see the child stretched helplessly on a sheet that had bright red flowers. He burst into laughter sometimes; i found it quite hard to face this reality and thought of leaving. There are many children like Sohail who have fallen victim to Endosulfan, that incidentally was banned in India only recently after much protest (of course policy makers concern seems to be GDP).  Indeed this dangerous chemical is being actively promoted by profit seeking pesticide companies.

It was in the year 1998 that one Ms. Leela Kumariamma filed a case against Plantation Corporation of Kerala (PCK)–a Public sector undertaking, she had filed the case restraining the use of helicopter for spraying pesticide that is happening for 24 years.  It is this spraying that is believed to have contaminated the surrounding. It is while the trial was proceeding that the people first came to know about Endosulfan. Amazing is it not we don’t we even know what goes into our food, our water, our land, our blood...while the 24x7 market media news is reduced to entertainment. I met NP Mohd. Kunju -the Panchayat President of Bovikunnu, who also happens to be the Chairperson of the group that was created to protest against the use Endosulfan. Punjiri (little smile) was formed in 1997, their fourteen years of struggle is having affect only recently. There is now a complete ban on Endosulfan, but the issue of compensation to the victims is still in limbo. 187 victims have been identified and 1lakh from CM’s relief fund is promised, this was raised to 5 lakh by Human Right Commission, half of the amount will be paid by the Plantation Corporation. The mute question though is how is that the Company that produces such dangerous chemicals go scot free? 

I was reading that at the Stockholm Convention on Persistent Organic Pollutants of 2011, when an international consensus arose for the global ban of the pesticide, India stood against this move owing to pressure from the endosulfan manufacturing companies!! Understandably there were protests. Later, on a petition filed in the Supreme Court of India, the production, storage, sale and use of the pesticide was banned.                  

cycling in the monsoon II

From Chavakkad to Ponnani is a straight stretch of about 20km with not much traffic. From Ponnani there is a ’junker’ to the other side of lagoon, Tripangode to Tanur is probably the best route to cycle. The road runs parallel to the ocean, it reminded me of certain patches along Chennai-Pondicherry. I stopped for Kattan (black tea), puttu kadala is very definitely the best breakfast in the world. For few minutes I stared at the steaming puttu, the aroma wafting from it was heavenly. A blend of grounded baked rice, shredded coconut and everything-good-in-life, invaded my senses. I vacillated, it was trying moment. I skip breakfast while cycling, and go for walnuts. The man at the hotel (it was a small thatched thing) asked whether i cycle in the night too. I replied “athrekku vatta ayitilla” (haven’t become that mad yet!!). They found it funny. While leaving the man insisted that the tea is on him and refused to take money. It rained occasionally; sometimes it was deluge, mostly drizzle. The monsoon really hasn’t picked up. Is it the El Nino? A boy shouted “saipe my brother drinking water. Help!!”. Sure i know, that’s a dialogue from a popular Malayalam movie of the past. Very soon i was in Tanur beach, further up is Kadalundi. As i was crossing the Kadalundi bridge i could see the railway line. About a decade back there was a major train accident here, i recall that since a day before the accident i had travelled on the same train. It gave me shiver that one. Further up i took the beach route, and was waiting for Junker (ferry) to Beypore. As i asked for the ticket in Malayalam, the man at the counter stared at me and said rather derisively “jnan vicharichu ningal videshi ananu” (i thought you are a foreigner). I shot back “vicharichikondu irrikunnunthu arogiyathinu nallatha” (to keep thinking is good for health!!). Malayali sarcasm is quite biting and i know how to deal with it. Beypore to Calicut is one straight route.

Calicut to Thalassery was the target for the day. The beach road from Calicut is another of those quaint stretches that make cycling an enchanting experience. It had started to rain quite heavily, a thunderstorm. I had plans for Kappad but cancelled. Kappad is the beach where Vasco De Gama landed in 1498. Payyoli was another town on the route that i zipped through, it happens to be the home town of legendary athlete PT Usha. She has a training academy that is promoting new talents in track and field. I saw a signpost of Sargaalaya-Arts and craft village, and decided to drop in. I had great experience at Dakshinacharitra on ECR, so was keen. They have created a space for artisans to make and sell their wares. It was a remarkable effort; i spend an hour roaming the place. Some of the art forms are unique (like for instance miniature ships, the original size of which Beypore was famous for). I strongly recommend people passing through this route to drop in and spend some time. It is worth it, although one may add the floor is quite slippery and very dangerous to walk. Kunjali Marikkar museum is also nearby (Marikkar was the title given by the king for warriors exceptional in naval warfare). Right after Vadakara the route becomes rather uneven with ups and down that had started to take away the fun out of cycling, this continued till Thalaserry. As also the roads do get dangerously narrow. Private buses are nightmare, they don’t seem to have much concern for human life. Mahe is part of Puducherry, and so the liquor is sold cheap (that seem to be only differentiating factor), every other shop is a drinking hole, every other person a drunkard. The place sickens me. Why these kinds of nonsense exist? I think Mahe is one disgusting piece of land (apologies to writer Mukundan, i recall meeting him once long time back in Delhi), it stinks and is repulsive in every sense. Though one must congratulate them for renovating Tagore garden, the view of Mayyazhi river merging into the ocean in the setting sun is a breath taking. 

Hoardings are another nightmare that one experiences, huge and repulsive looking it takes away the charm of scenic surrounding. The one on Gold/jewellery really is nauseating. Keralites really are sick society in many ways, sometimes i think this society is in some collective hallucination. It’s a kind of cultural dystopia that now comes with renewed vigour through free market. I saw the posters of the movie ‘Diamond Necklace’, some vaguely familiar faces...mine mine am I not becoming old!! The title ‘Diamond necklace’ though reminds me of a short story of the same title by one of my favourite French writer Maupassant (did you know that Maupassant as a teenager saved the life of poet Swinburne from drowning!!).       

  

Déjà vu at Thalaserry: about eleven years back I cycled from Udupi to Thalaserry, i had originally planned to Kochi but gave up in between as I decided to stay in Thalaserry for few weeks for Ayurvedic massage. Thalaserry is a quaint little town that I used to go for long walks, and did lots of cycling in the interiors. This is a place with a very long history; indeed it is quite remarkable in many ways. Known for three C’s that is Circus, Cakes and Cricket...all these are traced to this small town, not to forget Herman Gundert.

The route from Thalaserry to Kannur is hassle free, but must add Kannur is a messy little town. Indian Coffee still serves its signature beetroot masala dosha!! 

At St. Joseph College Devagiri Calicut

Established in 1952 St. Joseph College Devagiri is one of the prominent colleges in Calicut. I met the members of nature club. Dr. Shiby Thomas, though from Dept of Economics, is actively involved in Nature related issues and is the coordinator. He introduced me to the Nature Club team (in the pic, from right) –Vishal Jose (President), Geethu Antony (Secretary), members Varadha Vasudevan, Linet Roslin Antony (Linet incidentally is named after a bird that is found in Europe/North Africa!!) and Athira Balaraj. They are quite an active group. The college is already a Plastic free zone, and also has Rainwater harvesting. They are concerned about reducing the noise pollution. We discussed on the ways it could be worked out. Vehicle free zone within the college premise was suggested. Solid waste management was something the college has taken seriously. They even had training programme for locals. In a unique initiative they have created a herbal garden. Tagging the trees with names and their importance was something they had taken up. We spend about half an hour discussing things...   

At Brennan college Thalaserry

Brennan college is one of the reputed colleges in the state, with a history of more than 100 years. A campus full of trees it even has land designated as forest (Shantivanam). They also have a herbal garden, that is well maintained. Rainwater harvesting is done, and the college is a plastic free zone. Mr. Anil Kumar was the reference person but since he was out of station Mr. Aslam got the act together. Students of Botony and Zoology gathered in a hall, Dr. Radha who happens to be the head of the Dept was rather magnanimous, i was introduced as ‘famous naturalist’, which i refuted at the earliest possible opportunity. It was an enthusiastic bunch of students who explained to me about activities they conducted as part of Nature club. Regular visits to forests are arranged. They do go out for documentation. I showed them the PPT that was prepared by WWF on green economy. A quiz was conducted and pens were distributed to those who gave right answers. It’s surprising that not many people are aware about the beetles!!

While we were having cup of tea the discussion quite naturally veered to politics. It need be added here that most senior contemporary politicians of the state are alumni of Brennan. Aslam said we need to save our nature alright but i think there is an immediate need to safeguard culture. “There is acute need for culture that promotes tolerance, and a mindset that rise beyond narrow divisions of religion and caste. We need a culture that promotes civilised ways of human discourse”. Indeed Kerala does have a long tradition of political violence, but in recent times its gone personal. This violent politics is bad for future, he rued. Mr Aslam is a young lecturer, and i was quite impressed by his views.

At HSS Kannur

The Government Higher Secondary School at Kannur is quite an old school, they have kept buckets inside to collect leaking rainwater!!. Mr Madhusudan was the contact person who arranged everything. Head Mistress Ms. Shobana gave the welcome speech. Children were very excited, though PPT was meant for much older students, i tried to include other things and try make it relevant. Most children belong to fishing community, and must add their knowledge on nature was above average. The school has rain water harvesting. The children are aware of the dangers of plastics. They have eco club that involves in tree plantation, forest trip...so on. Quiz was conducted and pens distributed.